It's time for a timing belt replacement and I am wondering if anyone has used the "racing" Gates TB131RB belt? I currently have a Continental and if something is "better" I would like to use it. Thanks....
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Continental has been the standard for years. The Gates is supposed to be an upgrade. Anything special about your application? (Higher redline, race engine that will sit near redline for hours, etc.) The continental is as good as it gets for 99% of cars, and is probably all you need.sigpic
1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]
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Thanks for the replies. I don't drive my car much since I live on a rough, one lane road and I worry about getting ran into the ditch...life has been keeping me busy the last few years as well. I've had the car since about '94 and do upgrades when possible. The current belt is about seven years old, but has less than 4,000 miles on it. I'm concerned about the age of the belt at this point. I am hoping to drive it more this Summer and was curious if this "racing" belt had a good record with fellow M20 owners and thought it might have a longer lifespan than a traditional belt.
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Originally posted by Vincenze View PostI expect that a "racing" belt is designed for frequent changes like after 5,000 miles.
I read the Gates racing belt is more stiff than a regular one.
Gates offers a regular timing belt too.89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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Originally posted by ADEN View PostTiming system in M20 is robust i discovered that my stupid mech. Installed the timing belt with no screw and spring only the tensioner pully torqued tight (fixed tension), Luckily, Belt went ok for more than 5 years till i opened it one month ago for engine rebuild.89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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Originally posted by ADEN View Post
So you are saying that running with no spring and bolt is ok?and timing has to be tight fixed?89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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Originally posted by digger View Post
depends, the spring sets the tension and then the tensioner is locked in place. if you remove the spring after tension is set and locked it's fine as the spring is not doing anything
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Originally posted by ADEN View Post
Please check your info as i read some instructions that you just have to torque the pully by hand only so that the spring varies the tenstion when in move???89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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