M20 Timing Belt Recommendations

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  • dlmpsy
    Advanced Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 189

    #1

    M20 Timing Belt Recommendations

    It's time for a timing belt replacement and I am wondering if anyone has used the "racing" Gates TB131RB belt? I currently have a Continental and if something is "better" I would like to use it. Thanks....
  • McGyver
    R3V Elite
    • Jun 2009
    • 4433

    #2
    Continental has been the standard for years. The Gates is supposed to be an upgrade. Anything special about your application? (Higher redline, race engine that will sit near redline for hours, etc.) The continental is as good as it gets for 99% of cars, and is probably all you need.
    sigpic
    1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
    1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
    1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]

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    • cheffy30
      E30 Enthusiast
      • Sep 2016
      • 1159

      #3
      my daily for 21 years... 4th continental. zero problems sent from hell using Tapatalk
      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
      '90 325i sedan daily driven
      '85 325e coupe also a daily

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      • e30austin
        I waste 90% of my day here and all I got was this stupid title
        • Sep 2010
        • 15382

        #4
        i have only ever installed the Continental belts (5yr/50k intervals) and have never had an issue.
        '70 911s | '72 2002 | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '95 911 | '02 M5 | '04 RR HSE

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        • Vincenze
          E30 Modder
          • Apr 2019
          • 914

          #5
          I expect that a "racing" belt is designed for frequent changes like after 5,000 miles.
          I read the Gates racing belt is more stiff than a regular one.

          Gates offers a regular timing belt too.
          Last edited by Vincenze; 04-06-2021, 10:39 AM.

          Comment

          • dlmpsy
            Advanced Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 189

            #6
            Thanks for the replies. I don't drive my car much since I live on a rough, one lane road and I worry about getting ran into the ditch...life has been keeping me busy the last few years as well. I've had the car since about '94 and do upgrades when possible. The current belt is about seven years old, but has less than 4,000 miles on it. I'm concerned about the age of the belt at this point. I am hoping to drive it more this Summer and was curious if this "racing" belt had a good record with fellow M20 owners and thought it might have a longer lifespan than a traditional belt. Click image for larger version

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            • digger
              R3V Elite
              • Nov 2005
              • 5911

              #7
              Originally posted by Vincenze
              I expect that a "racing" belt is designed for frequent changes like after 5,000 miles.
              I read the Gates racing belt is more stiff than a regular one.

              Gates offers a regular timing belt too.
              No it is not the case of more frequent changes being required. The gates blue belt has materials superior in every way except cost. The life would be higher than stock but without statements from them in regards to the specific interval for an m20 the stock interval will more than suffice.
              89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

              new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

              Comment

              • ADEN
                Mod Crazy
                • Feb 2008
                • 620

                #8
                Timing system in M20 is robust i discovered that my stupid mech. Installed the timing belt with no screw and spring only the tensioner pully torqued tight (fixed tension), Luckily, Belt went ok for more than 5 years till i opened it one month ago for engine rebuild.

                Comment

                • digger
                  R3V Elite
                  • Nov 2005
                  • 5911

                  #9
                  Originally posted by ADEN
                  Timing system in M20 is robust i discovered that my stupid mech. Installed the timing belt with no screw and spring only the tensioner pully torqued tight (fixed tension), Luckily, Belt went ok for more than 5 years till i opened it one month ago for engine rebuild.
                  the tension is supposed to be fixed/locked in place, albeit you are supposed to use the spring plus a smidge extra before it gets locked off
                  89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                  new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                  Comment

                  • ADEN
                    Mod Crazy
                    • Feb 2008
                    • 620

                    #10
                    Originally posted by digger

                    the tension is supposed to be fixed/locked in place, albeit you are supposed to use the spring plus a smidge extra before it gets locked off
                    So you are saying that running with no spring and bolt is ok?and timing has to be tight fixed?

                    Comment

                    • digger
                      R3V Elite
                      • Nov 2005
                      • 5911

                      #11
                      Originally posted by ADEN

                      So you are saying that running with no spring and bolt is ok?and timing has to be tight fixed?
                      depends, the spring sets the tension and then the tensioner is locked in place. if you remove the spring after tension is set and locked it's fine as the spring is not doing anything
                      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                      Comment

                      • ADEN
                        Mod Crazy
                        • Feb 2008
                        • 620

                        #12
                        Originally posted by digger

                        depends, the spring sets the tension and then the tensioner is locked in place. if you remove the spring after tension is set and locked it's fine as the spring is not doing anything
                        Please check your info as i read some instructions that you just have to torque the pully by hand only so that the spring varies the tenstion when in move???

                        Comment

                        • digger
                          R3V Elite
                          • Nov 2005
                          • 5911

                          #13
                          Originally posted by ADEN

                          Please check your info as i read some instructions that you just have to torque the pully by hand only so that the spring varies the tenstion when in move???
                          after you rotate the engine twice you are supposed to lock it off to retain/lockin the spring tension
                          89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                          new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                          Comment

                          • ADEN
                            Mod Crazy
                            • Feb 2008
                            • 620

                            #14
                            Ok thanks for the good info.

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