I wanted to post up some pictures and info on my K24 swap into an 85 318i to hopefully help anyone out who is doing or thinking of doing this swap. If you don't like that I'm putting a Honda engine in a BMW, too bad, I don't care. This thread isn't for you. I'm not trying to recreate the K Power swap guide here, just show a bit of how I did it.
Swap Kit: K Power
Engine:
K24A2 from a 2006 TSX
50 degree cam gear
RSX Type S Oil Pump
Two Intake Cam sensors for better clearance from firewall (Honda Part 37510-RAA-A01)
K Power Intake Manifold
K Power Oil Pan
CX Racing 3" intake tubing - 1 90 degree J and 1 45 degree bend.
AFE 3" dry filter
Acuity TPS
Honda Element IACV
2002 RSX auto ECU with Honda K-Pro 4
2002 RSX auto harness - ATTN - need to swap the power and signal wires on TPS with this harness
M42 throttle cable
Fuel system
Stock fuel rail and injectors - may upgrade to RDX turbo, not sure
Audi 4.0 bar fuel pressure regulator integrated into filter
Stock E30 pumps for now
Cooling System:
S52 radiator
stock E30 325i reservoir
Reservoir to T junction hose: Gates 18965
Lower Heater core to back of head: Gates 19021
Upper Heater Core to coupler: Gates 18922
Coolant neck to E36 radiator hose: Gates 23320
T-stat to lower radiator hose aluminum tube: Gates 23929
Intake Manifold Elbow to Thermostat Housing: 28467
Transmision/Driveline
Getrag 250
Z3 1.9 Shift lever p/n 25117527252
318ti/318i shift lever support 25111221540
E36 325is driveshaft with replaceable U joints purchased new from Driveline Service of Portland
K Power Flywheel
330i clutch with splines to match the G250
3.25 LSD
Exhaust plan (in work):
K Power Header
3" mild steel tubing - my first time doing an exhaust so I figured I'd start with the easier material
Magnaflow 3" high flow cat
Vibrant Bottle resonator
Y pipe 3" into dual 2.25"
Dynomax 2.25" muffler
2.5" vacuum actuated cutout
RYNV4613 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
NDVC0195 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Here's the notch I cut in the transmission. It was a bit of a hack job and not very artistic but it works. I used a grinding wheel. I tried a hole saw like K Power suggests but I couldn't hold it steady.
IMG_2850 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Trans adaptor plate bolted up. Notice how the elbow on the intake manifold is pointing back - don't do that, it needs to point at the thermostat housing.
IMG_2853 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
This is how close the engine sits to the firewall. It may be hard to see in this photo, but the cam sensor for the exhaust cam is so close to the fire wall that couldn't get the plug on. I ordered another intake cam sensor and swapped it. I also rotated the coolant elbow to point right at the upper heater core hose later on. You can also see the breather vents right at the heater panel, I removed it with some vice grips and an elbow and am working on a solution.
IMG_3026 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Hose elbow rotated. Ignore the fact that the wrong coolant sensor is installed in this picture, should be the single prong sensor for the gage.
IMG_3478 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Heater Hoses connected. Make sure the hose coming from the head goes to the lower heater core connection, otherwise you'll hear a weird thumping sound and have little to no heat. I also have the high pressure fuel hose attached to the stock rail. I just trimmed of a bit from the end of the rail.
IMG_3915 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Here's a way I found to use the stock thermostat housing, although I later decided to get an aluminum piece that rotates:
IMG_3491 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
I ordered some 1.25" aluminum tube from McMaster Carr and made this long tube plus some couplers using an aircraft tubing flair kit I borrowed from a coworker. I cut up some stock E30 radiator hoses to make the 90s. One of them happened to transition from 1.5" to 1.25" which was perfect.
IMG_3492 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
The upper hose uses an E36 hose plus a random gates hose I found on the shelf that happened to work perfectly
IMG_3480 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
The lighting on this sucks, but what I'm trying to show are a few connections. The upper heater core hose goes to the aluminum heater pipe adaptor from K Power. The plastic pipe on the thermostat housing Tees off to the coolant reservoir, and also continues to the elbow on the bottom of the intake manifold. Make sure this elbow is pointing towards the thermostat housing when you install the manifold, otherwise it's a pain to reposition.
IMG_3481 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Exhaust in progress. K power says to use a flex pipe... I wish they had inclued an O2 sensor bung before the flange...
IMG_3530 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Pics of "complete" engine bay. Just needs a battery tie down.
IMG_4055 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
IMG_4057 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
IMG_4061 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
IMG_4062 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Swap Kit: K Power
Engine:
K24A2 from a 2006 TSX
50 degree cam gear
RSX Type S Oil Pump
Two Intake Cam sensors for better clearance from firewall (Honda Part 37510-RAA-A01)
K Power Intake Manifold
K Power Oil Pan
CX Racing 3" intake tubing - 1 90 degree J and 1 45 degree bend.
AFE 3" dry filter
Acuity TPS
Honda Element IACV
2002 RSX auto ECU with Honda K-Pro 4
2002 RSX auto harness - ATTN - need to swap the power and signal wires on TPS with this harness
M42 throttle cable
Fuel system
Stock fuel rail and injectors - may upgrade to RDX turbo, not sure
Audi 4.0 bar fuel pressure regulator integrated into filter
Stock E30 pumps for now
Cooling System:
S52 radiator
stock E30 325i reservoir
Reservoir to T junction hose: Gates 18965
Lower Heater core to back of head: Gates 19021
Upper Heater Core to coupler: Gates 18922
Coolant neck to E36 radiator hose: Gates 23320
T-stat to lower radiator hose aluminum tube: Gates 23929
Intake Manifold Elbow to Thermostat Housing: 28467
Transmision/Driveline
Getrag 250
Z3 1.9 Shift lever p/n 25117527252
318ti/318i shift lever support 25111221540
E36 325is driveshaft with replaceable U joints purchased new from Driveline Service of Portland
K Power Flywheel
330i clutch with splines to match the G250
3.25 LSD
Exhaust plan (in work):
K Power Header
3" mild steel tubing - my first time doing an exhaust so I figured I'd start with the easier material
Magnaflow 3" high flow cat
Vibrant Bottle resonator
Y pipe 3" into dual 2.25"
Dynomax 2.25" muffler
2.5" vacuum actuated cutout
RYNV4613 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
NDVC0195 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Here's the notch I cut in the transmission. It was a bit of a hack job and not very artistic but it works. I used a grinding wheel. I tried a hole saw like K Power suggests but I couldn't hold it steady.
IMG_2850 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Trans adaptor plate bolted up. Notice how the elbow on the intake manifold is pointing back - don't do that, it needs to point at the thermostat housing.
IMG_2853 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
This is how close the engine sits to the firewall. It may be hard to see in this photo, but the cam sensor for the exhaust cam is so close to the fire wall that couldn't get the plug on. I ordered another intake cam sensor and swapped it. I also rotated the coolant elbow to point right at the upper heater core hose later on. You can also see the breather vents right at the heater panel, I removed it with some vice grips and an elbow and am working on a solution.
IMG_3026 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Hose elbow rotated. Ignore the fact that the wrong coolant sensor is installed in this picture, should be the single prong sensor for the gage.
IMG_3478 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Heater Hoses connected. Make sure the hose coming from the head goes to the lower heater core connection, otherwise you'll hear a weird thumping sound and have little to no heat. I also have the high pressure fuel hose attached to the stock rail. I just trimmed of a bit from the end of the rail.
IMG_3915 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Here's a way I found to use the stock thermostat housing, although I later decided to get an aluminum piece that rotates:
IMG_3491 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
I ordered some 1.25" aluminum tube from McMaster Carr and made this long tube plus some couplers using an aircraft tubing flair kit I borrowed from a coworker. I cut up some stock E30 radiator hoses to make the 90s. One of them happened to transition from 1.5" to 1.25" which was perfect.
IMG_3492 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
The upper hose uses an E36 hose plus a random gates hose I found on the shelf that happened to work perfectly
IMG_3480 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
The lighting on this sucks, but what I'm trying to show are a few connections. The upper heater core hose goes to the aluminum heater pipe adaptor from K Power. The plastic pipe on the thermostat housing Tees off to the coolant reservoir, and also continues to the elbow on the bottom of the intake manifold. Make sure this elbow is pointing towards the thermostat housing when you install the manifold, otherwise it's a pain to reposition.
IMG_3481 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Exhaust in progress. K power says to use a flex pipe... I wish they had inclued an O2 sensor bung before the flange...
IMG_3530 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
Pics of "complete" engine bay. Just needs a battery tie down.
IMG_4055 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
IMG_4057 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
IMG_4061 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
IMG_4062 by Jon Pete, on Flickr
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