Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

M30 5spd

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • hugh jass
    replied
    nice work man. let me know when you want to do a/c.

    Leave a comment:


  • yert315
    replied
    can't you just swap coding plugs from a 6cyl tach? I don't know if you can do it with the early clusters, but it's a thought.

    Leave a comment:


  • whiltebeitel
    replied
    Yeah, PM me if you want it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    No. I removed my early cluster to install a late model in order for the tach to read properly (4cyl to 6cyl). I should have not said "late model", edited my previous post. It's an early newer board, basically must have been a replacement board. I was just trying to explain to you that in the early cluster you cay bypass the SI board.
    Last edited by Jean; 08-25-2009, 06:58 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Japandrew73
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean View Post
    My early cluster is 100% working, it even has brand new gears and it's got a late model (probably a replacement) SI board with newer batteries. You can actually bypass the SI board in the early clusters, I did that for months until I got a newer board.

    But this late model cluster was just my luck, I kept it from my other e30.
    You put the late model SI board in your early model instrument cluster??? How does that work out? The lights are different colors on the early and late clusters. Is there any technical differences or is it a straight swap?

    Leave a comment:


  • 416stroker
    replied
    Great I want a ride in it. You do great work Jean it looks very clean

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    My early cluster is 100% working, it even has brand new gears and it's got a newer model (probably a replacement) SI board with newer batteries. You can actually bypass the SI board in the early clusters, I did that for months until I got a newer board.

    But this late model cluster was just my luck, I kept it from my other e30.
    Last edited by Jean; 08-25-2009, 06:57 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Japandrew73
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean View Post
    Man I am pissed. Pulled my early cluster today to install a late model cluster so that tach would read correctly instead of 1500rpm idle and install check engine light...

    Resoldered all the connections on the main board in the cluster, installed early style fuel gauge meter in the late model cluster. Checked all bulbs, replaced a few. Installed it in the car, turn the key on and the tach is dead on at about 800 rpm now, temp and fuel gauge work as they should, odometer/speedometer working as well. But the f-ing SI board is bad.... it won't reset through pin 7 to 19.
    Those god damn SI boards ruin so many clusters. They really should have picked a different battery or found a way to prevent the leaking from spreading like it does.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    Thanks for the offer! I am going to look for one tomorrow, but if I don't find one I'll PM you?

    Leave a comment:


  • whiltebeitel
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean View Post
    Man I am pissed. Pulled my early cluster today to install a late model cluster so that tach would read correctly instead of 1500rpm idle and install check engine light...

    Resoldered all the connections on the main board in the cluster, installed early style fuel gauge meter in the late model cluster. Checked all bulbs, replaced a few. Installed it in the car, turn the key on and the tach is dead on at about 800 rpm now, temp and fuel gauge work as they should, odometer/speedometer working as well. But the f-ing SI board is bad.... it won't reset through pin 7 to 19.
    I'll check and see if the spare I have in College Station is in good shape (should be) I think it's a motometer. You interested? I'll help out a nice m30 swap!

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    Man I am pissed. Pulled my early cluster today to install a late model cluster so that tach would read correctly instead of 1500rpm idle and install check engine light...

    Resoldered all the connections on the main board in the cluster, installed early style fuel gauge meter in the late model cluster. Checked all bulbs, replaced a few. Installed it in the car, turn the key on and the tach is dead on at about 800 rpm now, temp and fuel gauge work as they should, odometer/speedometer working as well. But the f-ing SI board is bad.... it won't reset through pin 7 to 19.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    Why the cover? I actually have it, but left it out because I didn't see how it would cause any problems and didn't want to bother with it due to clearance as well.

    P.S. I see you used an m20 overflow tank, what did you do with the hoses to get it to fit?

    Leave a comment:


  • Doughnut
    replied
    Get the covers on that rotor cap ASAP!
    Something to this effect looks much better:



    Please excuse the hot air intake, it was temporary.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    Originally posted by Jon325i View Post
    Excellent work, Jean. I want to test drive this bad boy sometime. Sounds wicked
    Sure thing, maybe at the next coffee gtg?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    Originally posted by Japandrew73 View Post
    What's the reason for relocating your battery? Did you relocate your Washer reservoir to the battery tray due to the new location of the M30's AFM? And now your relocating the battery to the trunk like later models? I'm not entirely sure, but I'm pretty sure with our cars (early 318i) the battery won't fit where it does in most other e30's, it'd have to sit elsewhere in the trunk.
    To move some weight to the back and make room for the ECU/ relays. It will be located against the back seat dead in the center (above where the diff is).

    I don't even have a washer stuff in my car, I never use that stuff :)

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X