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Installing an OE m44 electric fan

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    Installing an OE m44 electric fan

    I originally posted this in another thread but thought it might be more useful on it's own.

    The good: ZERO fabbing/trimming/modding, you're using BMW parts.
    The bad: it takes up as much or more of your bay as the mech. fan.

    For starters, unplug your existing aux. fan from it's connector at the LH side of the radiator. Also unplug and remove the fan temperature switch at the upper RH side of the radiator. Install the new e36 temp. switch and plug the connector back in.

    Remove your mechanical fan and shroud and put them somewhere else, but save the plastic fasteners that hold the shroud to the radiator.

    Then with the e36 e-fan:

    1. Unscrew the hold down nut on the fan blade and remove the blade from the motor, don't loose the spacer.

    2. Unbolt the motor from the plastic shroud assembly and remove the motor, don't loose the spacers.

    3. Move the motor to the inside of the shroud and use the same hardware to reattach it to the plastic shroud.

    4. Reattach the fan blade to the motor shaft using the same hardware.

    5. Install the assembly onto the radiator using the existing hooks and plastic snaps that used to hold your plastic mechanical fan shroud there.

    6. Plug the fan motor connector into the aux. fan connector at the LH side of the radiator.

    Now moving to the fuse box, pull and replace fuse #3 with a 40 amp fuse. Pull and replace fuse #18 with a 40 amp fuse.

    You're done.

    Part #'s are
    61318361787 (2 stage electric fan switch) $25
    64508372039 (e36 primary elect. fan assy) $275 German, $110 Valeo brand, "not German".
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Ryann; 02-28-2011, 06:39 PM.

    #2
    I did this also but didn't move the fan blade and moter to the inside of the shroud. Why did you do this - just to provide more room between the fan and the front of the engine?

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      #3
      Cool idea!

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        #4
        Originally posted by vpilarrt View Post
        I did this also but didn't move the fan blade and moter to the inside of the shroud. Why did you do this - just to provide more room between the fan and the front of the engine?
        Zero clearance between the fan motor housing and the fan clutch threads on the water pump pulley. Pics of your fan assy.? Maybe it's not as deep.

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          #5
          Here's mine - I'd say 1/2" clearence. Of course, the alternator belt is below the fan motor so its not even close.
          Last edited by vpilarrt; 08-21-2012, 06:09 AM.

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            #6
            Wow, looks like you've got almost an inch there. It's very possible that my radiator core support isn't in the right position as there were some repairs done to the front right corner earlier in the car's life. If this is the case, It would make the fan motor position change outlined above unnecessary for other people doing this mod, which would make it even faster and easier than it was for me.

            BTW, I deleted my a/c some time ago and recently discovered that my a/c switch on the dash still energizes the fan's low speed relay, so I have a built in manual engine fan switch.

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              #7
              i thought of installing one of these fans...but the yard wanted like 65 for one i was like wtf

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                #8
                I installed a VDO Water Temp gauge with the sensor on the bypass hose (I remove the TB heater) and when sitting in traffic the fan doesn't come on until the gauge reads about 200°/210° even though I put in the E36 temp switch like you did. Does your's get "too hot" before the fan switches on? During warm weather I jumper the 2 low speed/temp terminals on the switch so the fan runs on low speed all the time. Keeps the temp down to 180°/190° but I'm thinking of installing a seperate toggle switch to turn the fan on manually. I also switched the leads in the fusebox so the fan goes to high speed when I turn the AC on, which is needed in Va in the summertime.

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                  #9
                  but the yard wanted like 65 for one i was like wtf
                  Yeah, that sounds high, I got mine for $30 shipped

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                    #10
                    feel any difference?
                    Bought parts from me before? leave your feedback here

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                      #11
                      vpilarrt- I don't have a quality water temp. gauge installed like you do but I have noticed that my factory needle creeps up a little before the fan comes on. I haven't found the specs for normal m42 operating temps. I don't think that 200-210 is too hot though, that's a pretty normal range for a modern engine.

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                        #12
                        mr.vang - vast difference in the engine sound, but probably not in engine power. I just like the fact that I don't have a fan that freewheels on the water pump shaft when cold and (hopefully) engages when warm. I suppose you could make more or less the same point when talking about an electric fan but at least I have some control of when it turns on with switches and such.

                        ryan -its just that when I had the clutch fan the temp would stay in the 180°/190° range and when I see the gauge inching up into the 210° range my imagination of blowing water hoses starts runing away with me.

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                          #13
                          OP - nice write up. Saw this on a fellow members M42 this past weekend, very nice set up indeed. And wow, your engine bay is HOT.... figuratively speaking, of course :)

                          {edit} actually, kudos to both of you with pics posted here :up:
                          Dave
                          -----
                          (OO=[][]=OO)
                          _E30 FAN_

                          My E30's

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                            #14
                            anyone try this recently? Found an e36 e-fan for cheap and am hoping it will help pick up a couple ponies in my 318is. The 20% reduction in power at altitude really makes my 318 feel slow.

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                              #15
                              Not worth it. If you lose a couple of inches of coolant from the radiator for some reason, the switch is no longer submerged and the fan doesn't turn on. You can see why this would be bad. The electric fans were nothing but trouble for me when I had the M42 but the mechanical fan didn't fit. Either stick with mechanical fans for the reliability or trigger your electric fan by some means other than the switch in the top of the radiator. You don't stand to gain much anyway, the plastic viscous clutch operated fan in an E30 isn't your grandad's stamped steel direct drive that uses 15hp at 4,500rpm.
                              @turbovarg
                              '91 318is, M20B25, T3/T04E 60 trim (15psi), megasquirt, coilovers, Z3 rack, cold AC
                              [b u i l d]
                              [Car of the month: April 2018]

                              0c8b7c9527af628a346878feb14bf757

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