M42 high idle after throttle body heater delete

[Balleristic31]

Also injector orings could be bad unless they were replaced.

[and_e30]

Also injector orings could be bad unless they were replaced.

Yes, I did the fuel injector repair kit. Brand new rings.

[and_e30]

dude i think your ICV routing/ crankcase vent is wrong.

What is your suggested routing?

[and_e30]

I have 2 new theories:

1) when i bought the car, there was major vacuum leaks. this was part of the motivation for me to replace all the vacuum lines as well as delete the ones related to the heater. My theory is the last owner compensated for the vacuum leaks by adjusting the idle screw. So if there were high rpms from the vacuum leaks and the owner backed the screw off to close the throttle i would have to adjust it back open slightly. Since I have high rpms i would be adjust the screw in the same direction.

So once i adjusted it my rpms idle at normal speed, however from a complete stop the engine bogs a bit. This may be because adjusting the idle screw was only a band aid fix or my stock throttle cable needs to be replaced, which it does because the adjusting mechanism does not work on it and it doesn't make for a smooth throttle transition.

2) check engine light finally went on. I was excited to get some clarification on the issue. when i performed the stomp test, the stomp test did not work. No joke, i tried about 50 times. I have done the test before on my previously owned e30 so I know how to do it. I thought maybe the cluster was bad in case the car stores the codes in the cluster, so i swapped the entire cluster out with a spare and the same issue. stomp test does not work.

from what i understand the stomp test works based off the throttle position sensor. since the stomp test isn't working, it may be because my throttle position sensor is bad.

Anyone have any personal insight on the stomp test not working? I don't know if there is any other way to get the error codes from the car besides the stomp test.

[Boris3]

Re #2) post in the regional forums here or on bf.c and see if any one local to you has a code reader (Peake, BAP, etc) you can borrow.

[Dj Buttchug]

lets clarify something. Op im under the impression the car did NOT have a high idle before you deleted the heater plate. Chances are it was something you did with the delete. Was the car running well before you started this?

this is how it should be routed.

[and_e30]

lets clarify something. Op im under the impression the car did NOT have a high idle before you deleted the heater plate. Chances are it was something you did with the delete. Was the car running well before you started this?

this is how it should be routed.

Correct. The car did not have high idle before the delete. However the majority of the vacuum lines were cracked. And the routing of my hoses match that diagram exactly. In addition I also have a friend local with the same car with the delete and it matches.

[roguetoaster]

Do your stomp test again, only this time actuate the throttle in the engine bay instead of in the cabin. If this works it also tells me that you need to adjust your throttle cable. While you are there just double check that when the pedal is not pressed both butterflies are closed, and when throttle is fully depressed that both valves are fully open and that the throttle stop is being hit.

[KVF]

It's been mentioned before and very much worth trying... Put the heater plate back on as a spacer.

[and_e30]

Do your stomp test again, only this time actuate the throttle in the engine bay instead of in the cabin. If this works it also tells me that you need to adjust your throttle cable. While you are there just double check that when the pedal is not pressed both butterflies are closed, and when throttle is fully depressed that both valves are fully open and that the throttle stop is being hit.

just finished checking all of this, seems to be in working order. my throttle cable is deff messed up though. I cannot adjust it, the plastic threads are stripped or something. I ordered a new cable, it is a newer design as I think it was updated during a service bulletin.

There seems to be little to no information on trouble shooting the stomp test not working. I am probably going to go to the junk yard and pick up a throttle position sensor, the same part number is used on just about every model BWM pre 2004 it seems. i will see if this does anything.

[and_e30]

It's been mentioned before and very much worth trying... Put the heater plate back on as a spacer.

no luck, same results.

[AndrewBird]

The tps can be checked with an ohm meter. All it is is a multi-position switch. You will have continuity when at idle, at wot and anywhere in between. My guess is it isn't working at idle.

[roguetoaster]

The tps can be checked with an ohm meter. All it is is a multi-position switch. You will have continuity when at idle, at wot and anywhere in between. My guess is it isn't working at idle.

Quite possibly. But if it is working at WOT then your hand actuation of the throttle will allow the stomp test to work providing there are no issues with wiring. That said, pull the wiring boot off of the TPS and check that the wires have not fatigued/broken, as this seems to be a growing issue on M42s.

[KVF]

If the tps has failed in any position or is improperly aligned, wouldn't the stomp test fail, because continuity will be broken each time you let off during the stomp count...

[slowklopdop]

Just to clarify about the the throttle body heater plate, that it does not need to be re installed and you can leave it out.

Your lines look correct from what i can see from the pictures you have provided.