Slammin_e28's M60 swap. Annual update.

[slammin.e28]

Got 'er all re-pinned and worked on my core support last night.

Counted the wires to the core support from the body.....I got 21. Ugh. Probably going to eliminate something, like the side markers (Euro bumper trim) and then use the 20 pin connector.

....and thus it continues.

Also cut down the engine mount arm to clear the custom mounts and hook up the oil filter lines.

[slammin.e28]

Question.

Looking at shit for my e36, I noticed this:



Why not?

Hmmm?

[dirty30]

That would certainly stand up to the heat of the drivers side manifold BUT the flaming river parts make it so much easier to fab the downpipe on that side. I tried fitting the manifold with a poly rag joint and a stock lower U joint and I could see just how uncomfortably close the downpipe would be. The flaming river stuff was, in my opinion, one expense that I just couldn't avoid.

[_JohnnyD_]

Try this for your steering column...

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=273427

[slammin.e28]

Together, before wrapping it. I'm gonna try to fire the engine before I completely wrap the harness up.



One question.....had three wires left out from the e30 side. Grey (16), white/black (12), and a small green that stemmed off from the large green. My car was an auto e30, but I don't think that'd make a difference in the C101. Just quickly asking and being lazy as we're about to head out for dinner. ^_^

[slammin.e28]

Got my gas tank in. Found a dead mouse in my interior. Played in the car a bit. Then got to work doing my core support. Came to a stopping point when I got to welding the nuts in when I realized some dumbfuck at Ace mixed the 1.00 and 1.25 thread pitch nuts and 6 of my 8 were wrong. So I went ahead and put shit together loosely to encourage myself again.




I think I'm going to break down and just get an e34 booster setup. Fuck all this hydro shit I don't have the patience for it.

[garagistic]

Go boosterless! Its a bolt up affair. Just bend a line or two and your done.

http://garagistic.com/index.php?page=e30-brake-booster-delete-boosterless-brake-bracket-using-wilwood-tilton-pedals

Got my gas tank in. Found a dead mouse in my interior. Played in the car a bit. Then got to work doing my core support. Came to a stopping point when I got to welding the nuts in when I realized some dumbfuck at Ace mixed the 1.00 and 1.25 thread pitch nuts and 6 of my 8 were wrong. So I went ahead and put shit together loosely to encourage myself again.




I think I'm going to break down and just get an e34 booster setup. Fuck all this hydro shit I don't have the patience for it.

[Vtec?lol]

I think I'm going to break down and just get an e34 booster setup. Fuck all this hydro shit I don't have the patience for it.

Lol that'll be a huge regret

Pros of the e34 setup: None

Cons: So much space is taken up. You'll need to re-wire ABS. You'll need to do a ton of fabbing and welding. I don't care what any write up says. IT TAKES UP SO MUCH SPACE. I can bold my headers on from the top. Love it.
You'll need to remove the entire setup to access fuel lines. It just takes so much more effort and time

Pros of the boosterless setup: Its easy as hell. It removes so much clutter and free's up space. It's adjustable. Really adjustable. I can order a cable from will wood to dial my bias to 90/10 if I wanted and do brake stands all day. Only takes a few minutes maybe hours to assemble and install.

Cons: it's not cheap. It was the most expensive part of my swap but I bought it piece by piece to make myself feel better.

[Eric]

my S50B30 is boosterless. do it.

[slammin.e28]

Lol that'll be a huge regret

Pros of the e34 setup: None

Cons: So much space is taken up. You'll need to re-wire ABS. You'll need to do a ton of fabbing and welding. I don't care what any write up says. IT TAKES UP SO MUCH SPACE. I can bold my headers on from the top. Love it.
You'll need to remove the entire setup to access fuel lines. It just takes so much more effort and time

Pros of the boosterless setup: Its easy as hell. It removes so much clutter and free's up space. It's adjustable. Really adjustable. I can order a cable from will wood to dial my bias to 90/10 if I wanted and do brake stands all day. Only takes a few minutes maybe hours to assemble and install.

Cons: it's not cheap. It was the most expensive part of my swap but I bought it piece by piece to make myself feel better.

This is what keeps halting me. Took me so long to get mounts because I'm the worlds biggest tightwad, lol. Gotta pay to play though.

Wilwood stuff looks like the way to go. What'd you do for master cylinders?

http://wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/M...emno=260-10374???

Also....ABS is gone. I don't want to deal with it, so it has been removed in it's entirety. No trace.

[garagistic]

The cost will actually depend on fabrication. If you are not doing the welding and all that fun stuff yourself, it will end up costing the same as the boosterless setup.

If it helps any, the tilton pedal assembly seems to be cheaper and is still compatible with our boosterless brake bracket.

This is what keeps halting me. Took me so long to get mounts because I'm the worlds biggest tightwad, lol. Gotta pay to play though.

Wilwood stuff looks like the way to go. What'd you do for master cylinders?

http://wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/M...emno=260-10374???

Also....ABS is gone. I don't want to deal with it, so it has been removed in it's entirety. No trace.

[Vtec?lol]

^ True.

I ended up getting 5/8" for brakes and a 3/4" for the clutch. I like stiff clutches sooo.
I ordered the masters from jegs as they're a little cheaper and have fuggin fast shipping. You'll also need 3 brake line adapters for the master cylinders. PM me and I'll remember to get the part numbers and links for you.

It's worth it since there's absolutely no fabrication involved. Without ABS it's even better. It'll be a little more precise without a booster and you'll get a little more feedback so you'll better predict locking them up.

I chose ABS simply because when the Mrs. learns to drive she won't lock it up.

Pedal and mount kit $350 (shop around and be patient enough and you'll find someone abandoning they're project)
masters $74x3 $224 <- bought one master a payday
Lines and adapters $25
So I'll say $600-700 and you'll be okay.

I'm a virgin vag when it comes to spending cash simply because I love the idea of accumilation. Spending money takes that away and gives me anxiety lol.

Another idea is to take the money for the brake assembly and buy a parts car, part it out and then use the profit to buy the brakes. Then you can put you $600 back in your pocket.

[slammin.e28]

Man, I almost bought a 540i/6 for $1k but passed as it's too far away and had over 240k on the clock.....and the missus said no to more cars. Even though I explained I could make money from it....nope. Last time I bought a car after ignoring her "no" it was bad. Very bad.

If you don't mine PM'ing me those #s it'd be awesome. Got a friend who works at a high volume yard keeping an eye out for me on parts. Same place I got my VAC flywheel/clutch. ^_^

[Vtec?lol]

Here you are Brake line adapters :

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CNC884&Store_Code=PC&search=cnc884&filter_cat=&PowerSearch_Begin_Only=&sort=&range_low=&range_high=

You'll need three of these when ordering the master cylinders from wilwood


Pedals with the 6.25:1 ratio http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/340-3342/10002/-1


Masters http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...aster+cylinder

[slammin.e28]

Oh wow! You are the man! Next time I drive through TX I owe you a beer!