*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

[drift e302]

I like it!

Problem with me is the Right Hand drive so I need a cable. Mine works but I just need to find something shorter than 1.5m so i don't get that (binding up) problem as well. M42 Would be too short I guess....

Very helpful thread guys, good stuff!

[e30_302]

I got tired of dealing with the cheap cable I had binding up. So instead of buying a higher quality cable I made an entirely new pedal contraption and used the straight rod.

[jalopi]

Well I bet there's no slop in that "cable" :)

I've got an edelbrock style carb and I use a m42 cable, works just fine, pretty much the exact length you need

[e30_302]

I'm using a straight piece of threaded rod, but I've made my own pedal.

[drift e302]

true and I can get a cable the hyd clutch conversion done on the gearbox side as well but If I'm going to the effort of doing that I may as well go for a nice boosterless setup =)

Also another go question would be what accelerator cable is everyone using? I've done a universal 'speco' brand type but I'm not really liking it. Although my setup is carby so Its a bit different.

[e30_302]

You can go hydraulic with the stock pedal, if you want.

[drift e302]

yeh I always do stuff the hard way haha. But i figured I'd work with what i got.

When I gather up some coins I'll go Hydraulic with one of those nice pedal setups.

[jalopi]

Yeah man, you'd be the first person I've seen rocking a cable clutch. IMO it'd be too much hassle to deal with, though at least I'm sure you won't have many clutch disengagement issues related to questionable hydraulics

[drift e302]

So everyone goes for a hyd clutch setup?

My old setup was a cable so I'm halfway through modding my clutch pedal to suit cable clutch.

[e30_302]

Give me another 2-3 days, aero mods got in the way of the important stuff :)

[Stvstr]

Brake update: I've got a 17mm dual circuit master cylinder from a Porsche 914 on the way (got it for $50 used off a 914 forum). Mounting holes will need slight massaging but it should go on. I'll update once I get it.

Any progress with this? I have been trying a Volvo step-bore m/c that has a 5/8 smaller bore and it works well. It's designed to use the larger bore to move more fluid, then transitions to the 5/8 to provide enough pressure. The pedal travel is good but not perfect, but that may be my crappy bleeding procedure. I can lock up the tires and invoke the abs now, which I couldn't with the booster delete and stock m/c.

[jalopi]

Seriously, you'll need it if you track the car at all

[e30_302]

Now weld in some baffling while you're there.

[corkmoto]

Here is my front sump pan I just welded up

Hope these pics work

[danval]

I'll take a pic of the rad clearance when I get the chance, but

You need an old 70's mustang pan to modify. It is front sump

You need a front sump pickup tube

Sway bar can be kept just fine

I have almost no clearance between the WP snout and the rad, but I've got the Mishimoto z3m rad which is thick as fuck.

Thanks brotha. Ill look around