*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

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  • jalopi
    replied
    I'll take a pic of the rad clearance when I get the chance, but

    You need an old 70's mustang pan to modify. It is front sump

    You need a front sump pickup tube

    Sway bar can be kept just fine

    I have almost no clearance between the WP snout and the rad, but I've got the Mishimoto z3m rad which is thick as fuck.

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  • danval
    replied
    Ok you guys. I was doing some test fitting on my e30 today. First: what 5.0 oil pan are you guys using? Its obvious from what I noticed that it needs ro be a front sump pan. Also, sway bar or no sway bar for rear pan clearance? Second, can you guys post some pictures of how close is the front of the engine (accessories and serpentine belt to your radiator, and what radiator you guys used. Thanks a lot and cheers

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  • eurotrash
    replied
    300ft lbs basicly off idle. Also the only time i ever snapped a stock axel was this

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  • jalopi
    replied
    I'm guessing the torque curve is slightly different too

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  • QUKBMER
    replied
    Hmmmm so maybe thats the reason why.

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  • e30_302
    replied
    I think it's likely an issue of launching it on slicks. I've had no trouble, but the only track I see is the road course variety.

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  • QUKBMER
    replied
    I am hearing about people always snapping axleshafts with 5.0 swaps. My friend has a s52 swap with mods and has no problems.

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  • e30_302
    replied
    You can take the thug out of the hood, but you can't take the hood out of the thug.

    Plenty of other questionable engineering going on in the car.

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  • jalopi
    replied
    Not bad... guess you're abandoning the thug life then?

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  • e30_302
    replied
    Brake update: I've got a 17mm dual circuit master cylinder from a Porsche 914 on the way (got it for $50 used off a 914 forum). Mounting holes will need slight massaging but it should go on. I'll update once I get it.

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  • eurotrash
    replied
    Ya 2.5 mandrel to the collector then single 3" from the motor mount back between frame rail and starter and transition tube/ovalized back to the axel and 3" round to a 3"/3" magnaflow.

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  • jalopi
    replied
    Hrm... maybe I'll look into ovalized tubing. The only exhaust of yours I saw was the Y-pipe, you used 2.5" pipe until the collector, right?

    Also, delicious dude, yes get two 5/8" masters for the brakes and one 3/4" master for the clutch. You won't even notice you don't have a brake booster that way. Life in the e30 will be nice :)

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  • eurotrash
    replied
    I used 3" ovalized once it got passed the after control arm mount

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  • Letsgetdelicious
    replied
    Hey everyone. Just bought a daily so its E30v8 time. been eyeing this swap pretty much since i bought my e30 in Dec 2012. I purchased Nick_e30's full swap kit minus the drivetrain so i have the driveshaft, mounts, oil pan, MS w/harness, wideband, 540 booster (which is for sale), and several other odds and ends.

    I've decided to go the Garagistic pedal box w/ wilwood pedals (Dual pedal triple master) route and i know ive read about people running dual 5/8 masters and 3/4 for the clutch but i was wondering if anyone could back that up?

    i was also worried about the pull slave but now i know about the rosehill kit i will be purchasing that as well

    A lot of very good info on this thread BTW.

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  • danval
    replied
    Originally posted by QUKBMER
    Sup !!! A friend and i are doing a 5.0 swap into a 87 325is also. Your not that far from where i work. The car is in lake elsinore where the swap is being done.
    Thats cool! Im doing my swap in santa ana. How far are you guys on the swap?

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