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*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

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    #61
    Nice job guys

    Are you modifying your steering shaft or shimming your engine mounts at all to make this header fit ?

    Has anyone tried using a 91-93 thunderbird/cougar 5.0 header
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      #62
      Originally posted by corkmoto View Post
      Are you modifying your steering shaft or shimming your engine mounts at all to make this header fit ?

      Has anyone tried using a 91-93 thunderbird/cougar 5.0 header
      sorry bro, but I don't see that working period. at least not easily anyway. here's a few shots of my engine bay:




      As you can see it's pretty tight in there. Considering what you've got going on, I'd get two passenger headers (stock) sending the drivers' side forwards and the passenger back. This is the only way I can see cats fitting in there (close to the manifold like you were asking about)

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        #63
        Lol I didn't say anything too serious since I assumed you two knew each other personally or something based off of the conversation in the 'warmachine' thread:

        Originally posted by Nick's e30
        Where in Ct are you? I just "finished" my 5.0 for the season, if you're close enough to Stamford and doing work on the weekends I can offer help
        Originally posted by singh336 View Post
        no, he didn't. fact.

        smh

        You sure this isn't a friend trolling you or something?

        Also, I think there's one or two 5.0 guys who fabbed up a drivers' side header to clear the shaft.... it's just that noone posts info/pictures of anything. Trying to fix that, know what I mean?

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          #64
          Originally posted by corkmoto View Post
          Are you modifying your steering shaft or shimming your engine mounts at all to make this header fit ?

          Has anyone tried using a 91-93 thunderbird/cougar 5.0 header

          I did take some measurements and concluded that manifold wouldn't work, but didn't have one handy to confirm. I am using an E46 steering shaft because it's smaller and cheap used.

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            #65
            Originally posted by Nick's e30
            Seriously, go to his profile and look at every one of his last like 12 posts
            Ho Lee Sheeet. How do you not get the ban hammer with a post history like that? Wouldn't say it's been all 12, but at least 6 of the last twelve have been about you. That's some serious trash talk for someone you don't know though... you sure you didn't fuck his wife or something? :rofl:

            Back on topic...

            To be honest dude, unless you've got great stamina, get a quote for a shop to do the exhaust. I really wish I did with my car... I just really hate working on the ground. Lit myself on fire twice today welding up the 'mid-pipe' after the 'Y' (had to weld under the car)... there's just no room under there. Laying down and getting back up to measure, cut, repeat throughout the day really wears me out... but I'm in really bad shape, so maybe you'll be ok. Also, protip for doing a legit exhaust (if you really wanna do it yourself):

            Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Universal Rod Builder Exhaust Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Exhaust Systems at Summit Racing.


            The only 'downside' is that they use decent and thick metal for the pipes... which is great for durability, but it's pretty heavy. Everything's mandrel bent and comes with one end flared, good for making clean welds (or clamps if you so desire) and joining cut pieces is real easy. I'd say the box it all came in was around 50lbs or so? I don't know. I'll try contributing something useful when I'm not so tired and loopy and maybe have my exhaust finished tomorrow.

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              #66
              We used the cheap ass flex pipe stuff to make the crossover pipe from drivers to passenger side. We were in a time crunch and it was quick. I'd like to go back and do it properly before the next race. Good work so far.
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                #67
                What size master cylinder is everyone using? I had a 1" bore on it and King Kong would have a hard time getting the thing to stop. I could barely lock the tires up...in gravel. Lee (Massive) told me that was about twice the size of what I should have....whoops. I've now got a 5/8" to install and try out.
                sigpic

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                  #68
                  Originally posted by e30_302 View Post
                  What size master cylinder is everyone using? I had a 1" bore on it and King Kong would have a hard time getting the thing to stop. I could barely lock the tires up...in gravel. Lee (Massive) told me that was about twice the size of what I should have....whoops. I've now got a 5/8" to install and try out.
                  What is your 5/8" master cylinder from? I have been reading brake threads and still not sure which master to go with now that I have the booster delete kit and stock e30 mc.

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                    #69
                    It's a Wilwood. It's the closest size MC Wilwood makes to what Lee recommends for a bore size. You could go to a 3/4" but I prefer a longer travel to harder pedal, I find it easier to modulate. Anything over 3/4" is too big for manual brakes.
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                      #70
                      Found this little tidbit on e30tech... didn't realize how big the stock masters were. No wonder I've been hating the manual brakes so much

                      e30 m3, 25mm (.9842") = .760 sq. in. piston area
                      stock e30 master cylinder, 23mm (.9055") = .635 sq. in. piston area
                      7/8" (.875") cylinder = .600 sq. in. piston area
                      13/16" (.813") cylinder = .518 sq. in. piston area
                      3/4 (.75") cylinder =.441 sq. in. piston area
                      my current 5/8" (.625") = .306 sq. in. piston area



                      Mind posting a pic of the master you ended up using? Wilwood has a bunch of masters in that size. Also, of it installed on the car for a good idea of fitment. Let us know how it works out

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                        #71
                        Exhaust looks good. That front part wasn't the hard part. The 3" thru the mount and around the starter is the shitty part.

                        Pro tip: you wont be able to weld it all on the car. My guy got ecerything welded as much as he could. Then i pulled the header and the mount(brace the engine) then the exhaust back out and finished the last little bit up off the car. Also i wrapped everything from manifold level down . The exhaust is cool enough to touch with wrap so excessive heat in the oilpan/engine bay was of minimal concern after that.

                        Also for those worried about the steering shaft look up the e46 shaft. Theres some cutting but you dont even have to weld the two ends (although it is recomended) you can get away with through bolt them together and it'll still save you some room.

                        As mentioned before ill be building a header on my next one. Lol have to get a motor first though.

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                          #72
                          ^^^^If anyone is looking for e46 shafts I have a pair I'll sell. What it ends up looking like.

                          sigpic

                          Rebellion Forge Custom Fabrication

                          1988 325is - TrackRat in progress

                          Instagram @rebellionforge

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                            #73
                            Originally posted by eurotrash View Post
                            Exhaust looks good. That front part wasn't the hard part. The 3" thru the mount and around the starter is the shitty part.
                            Fucking this. Can't imagine how much of a bitch it was with 3", my pipe is 2.5.

                            Another protip: v-band flanges ftw for that pipe... makes getting it in/out much easier I imagine.

                            Also, lit myself on fire trying to weld everything under the car :firehop:

                            How many layers of wrapping did you put? I bought a 50ft roll with my exhaust pipe, think that'll be enough?
                            Last edited by jalopi; 01-15-2014, 10:41 AM.

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                              #74
                              The hell with taking the exhaust through the mount


                              sigpic

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                                #75
                                I considered going under the rack, but had my concerns about ground clearance. I'm not super slammed or anything (got about 4" between ground and bottom of oil pan) but I've had cars that scrape everywhere, didn't wanna fuck with that.

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