*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

[e30_302]

I might reconsider on a street car. But, race car. I haven't installed the smaller MC yet but I'll get the part number tonight.

[e30_302]

My Wilwood MC is part # 260-3372

[jalopi]

Thanks for the tip - I imagine bleeding the bitch sideways isn't very easy?

Also - just finished my exhaust up... kinda sorta. Gets a little raspy at higher RPMS, especially with the cutout open, but other than that it's GREAT - I can FINALLY hear the radio / myself think again! Asked a dude at autozone for the quietest muffler they had in the dimensions I gave em... will post a video tomorrow, maybe Friday. It's not stock silent, but I'd say it's somewhere inbetween a stock mustang and one with flowmasters or something.

[e30_302]

I didn't have any problem bleeding the MC on the car now, which is another Wilwood with the bleed screw sideways. The only thing about a Wilwood on the Massive plate is the bolt holes don't quite line up; the holes on the MC need to be opened up slightly.

[jalopi]

I didn't have any problem bleeding the MC on the car now, which is another Wilwood with the bleed screw sideways. The only thing about a Wilwood on the Massive plate is the bolt holes don't quite line up; the holes on the MC need to be opened up slightly.

Huh. guess that's not the worst thing in the world. so how'd you end up plumbing the brakes since they're single outlet masters? I really, really don't feel like relining my car, so what, did you just use a proportioning valve or something to go to the remaining lines or what?

[e30_302]

Well right now on the car is a dual outlet 1" master. So I tee'd the fronts (ran new lines) and ran the rear through a prop. valve and into the exisitng rear junction thingy. With this new single outlet master I've got a tee fitting that will screw directly into the master. One line will come out and go to the existing front brake tee, and the other will go to the prop. valve for the rear.

Running new lines isn't the worst thing in the world. I dreaded it myself but once I got into it wasn't bad. NAPA sells various lengths of lines with fittings already on the ends. If you go with the pre-made lines they'll either be SAE or Metric, and since a Wilwood is SAE and the rest of the system is Metric you'll need an adapter somewhere (either at the caliper junction or the master) to make the system work. The other option is cut one fitting off and replace it. That's a lot of work and the adapters are cheap, I went with the adapter. If you have the flare your own lines the key is in the prep work. YouTube to the rescue.

[jalopi]

I've done my fair share of brake lines, still hate it... too much effort. And that's with a hydraulic flare tool.

In any case, I was using this brake calculator I found online but can't seem to find now and basically it told me I was at half the brake force that I need, so yeah, I need to do something

[e30_302]

I think Lee recommends something like a 17mm master for stock calipers, which is 0.669". Wilwood has 5/8 (.625) and 3/4 (.75). I'm going to try the 5/8 and see what it's like. If I have to compromise between a longer pedal and more leg effort personally I choose the longer pedal travel.

[jalopi]

OK so has anyone else been having problems with their slave cylinders failing? I was planning on taking a 40 mile trip today and checked all my fluids yesterday, since I've got a slight intake gasket leak (coolant) and the clutch has been a little difficult to engage lately... clutch fluid is real murky and looks like it's got tons of metal shavings in it. I really have no clue what's going on and am quite frustrated now.

The old wilwood pull slaves I had kept wearing out the bore that the rod went through, that's how they kept failing. When I put in the new speedway push slave I made sure I had someone work the clutch while I was under the car to make sure I wasn't getting any weird angles or anything... and as far as I saw I wasn't getting any, seemed pretty straight to me.

Anything you guys have run into that would cause these problems?? I haven't checked the master yet, but I really don't think it could be the cause of these problems - if all that metal was from the master, I figure it would've stopped working a long time ago (also, the pull slaves I used to have clearly failed). At this point I'm almost ready to pull the trans and install a hydraulic TOB... these clutch problems really have me at wits end.

[jalopi]

i've got stang accessories and i might have 1/8 inch of clearance at the wp snout. thats with the mishi z3 rad which is too thick for our setup imo. go with the e36 rad or whatever you wanna use off summit, but do yourself a favor - don't get something with a core bigger than 2" or a total size of more than 2.5". any bigger and you'll have to pull the rad to do anything at the front of the engine

[e30_302]

I'm using the T5 hydraulic kit from here http://www.rosehillperformanceparts....racket%20Kit:- not sure if that's the same one you have or not. So far it's worked fine, although I haven't used it much.

[jalopi]

I used the same style push slave, but made my own bracket.

Also, apparently, clutches work just fine as long as the slave rod is properly adjusted, instead of being loose because someone forgot to tighten the nuts down

So yeah, my clutch works great now

[jalopi]

Today seemed like a reasonable day to take the car out for a drive and show off the new exhaust



I'll get a driving video up soon once the roads are clear, the difference is incredible... I have no idea why cutouts aren't more popular. I can leave my neighborhood at night without waking the neighbors / go into stealth mode if I see a cop ahead and be loud as fuck when appropriate. I do have a few minor leaks that I need to patch up eventually, and apparently (couldn't hear it before with the exhausts ending in front of the tires) need a different diff bushing - the diff I bought came with an aluminum bushing, shit is loud as fuck on the highway around 3k rpms.

[e30_302]

Got a set of the Ford Y303 heads in the other day. Sold my GT40's for a net of $200 to go to aluminum heads. Not bad. The weight saving is awesome. Those plus the cam I'm having made, plus a new intake manifold (Weiand Stealth) should really wake it up. Also picked up an aluminum flywheel and an SFI rated balancer.

[omarquez510]

I recommend the e30v8 guide guide to anyone doing the efi 302 swap. There is plenty of useful information. However, there are many steps in the guide that I did not follow . It was a good starting point to get familiar with what is involved. Matt was super helpful when I started my swap. If you're looking to go efi, Matt has already made made a nice table with which wires to splice depending. That was really the most valuable information for me.