*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

[grant_jr]

Slowly and Surely

[jalopi]

Huh?? You got progress coming along or something?

[grant_jr]

Just collection parts and tearing down the short block. Taking the block to get cleaned up later on this week.

[jalopi]

Lol that makes more sense, didn't notice the broken picture last night.

[omarquez510]

This thread is all over the place. Another thing people looking to do this swap might not know which motor mounts to use. I went with solid m20 mounts. Not sure what ever body else uses.

People also want to know an average cost of doing the swap.

Another thing you can add is radiator hose part numbers. Oil filter numbers. There's a shit load of good information in this thread, maybe bring it to the front?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

[jalopi]

I've never been a fan of solid engine mounts, imo the only thing it does is turn your car into an uncomfortable massage chair. I use the stock m20 rubbers and my engine gets close to no flex side to side.

To do a basic swap, budget about $4-5k.

Rad hoses depend on your cooling setup and I don't like mine so I won't be posting that. Ideally you want a radiator with inlets/outlets like an early e30 m20 rad, as in the inlet is top passenger side, outlet is bottom drivers' side. If you do that it's easy as shit to make a hose that works. If not you've gotta make a crossover tube and with the exhaust running in the same area it's kind of a pain anyway. I'll take a picture later.

As far as oil filters go, I prefer the big ones. More filtration = better. Get a filter for, say, a 1997 Ranger with a 2.3L and you'll be good to go.

[AWDBOB]

Anyone in here running a stock ECU?

[Stvstr]

This thread is all over the place. Another thing people looking to do this swap might not know which motor mounts to use. I went with solid m20 mounts. Not sure what ever body else uses.

People also want to know an average cost of doing the swap.

Another thing you can add is radiator hose part numbers. Oil filter numbers. There's a shit load of good information in this thread, maybe bring it to the front?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

I am using the original m20 mounts, spaced with one washer to raise the pan off the crossmember.

Cost so far to get it driveable: $2700 for the '88 325is and $4500 for the swap. Car parts here in Canada cost at least 60% more than in the US I have found. Also I bought a driving '92 Mustang, which made finding parts easier but probably cost more.

I am using the stock oil filter since I ran my exhaust rearward. Radiator hoses were custom and pieced together to fit, and will be changed as I refine the routing.

[Stvstr]

Anyone in here running a stock ECU?

I am running a stock Mustang ECU; or did you mean a stock BMW ECU?

[Stvstr]

Now that I am driving my swap with the Massive booster delete and stock brakes, I think the braking power is low and the leg effort for a hard stop is too high. I want to try a smaller master cylinder and better pads. Anyone found a M/C that fits? I have searched all over the place with no luck.

[jalopi]

I think people have used porsche 944 turbo master cylinders, but can't remember the specifics. I'm in the same boat where I think the brakes are now shit. I'm personally doing a 5lug swap so I can use e46 brakes all around. Essentially you pay the same as what a BBK costs from massive, but for all four wheels instead of two. Good for torque, maybe not for longevity, but that's not the kind of racing I do so whatever.

I used this site to calculate what brakes I should use to get back to stock power:

http://www.jakelatham.com/radical/info/brake_calculators.shtml

I'm assuming your car is pretty similar to mine - as-is, with the massive booster delete, we put out about 860ft/lbs of braking torque using roughly 70lbs of pedal pressure. Assuming our cars are 2700lbs, roughly 3200ft/lbs of braking force is needed. Using most BBK's and a smaller master will bring the torque back up where it needs to be, but the brake ratio gets kind of wacky if you only do a front bbk. Goes from roughly a 60/40 split to 75/25.

[e30_302]

Wilwood 5/8" bore is what I'm going to. The 1" was miserable.

[danval]

If you guys are running manual brakes (no booster) have you thought of changing thhe leverage point on the pedal? My friend is doing it and personally, i havnt seen how easy it is but it sounds like a good idea. Also, i asked in the general tech section, but apparently everyone ignored me. I couldnt find a DIY section dedicated to the front mounted booster/mc. Anybody has some info or links on that? Im close to start my 5.0 swap and im trying to get all the knowledge i can. So far, this thread has tons of info. Pretty cool by the way.also, why doesnt the stock e30 clutch doesnt work with the T5 slave? Thanks in advance

[AWDBOB]

I am running a stock Mustang ECU; or did you mean a stock BMW ECU?

I meant a stock Mustang ECU. You can get an SCT chip for like ~$100 and they're easy as hell to tune, so I see no reason to go megasquirt like some do.

Did you just follow the e30v8 swap to get that wired?

[eurotrash]

#1 rule for this swap. Dont buy a house. Your wife will need a new laundry room and master bath and youll nvr have cash for your car

Feel free to crowd fund me an explorer 5.0 and a world class t5