Originally posted by jalopi
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Using 5/8 for front and rear and a 3/4 for the clutch. What brake setup are you running?sigpic'89 325i
M60 swap in progress -
Massive's booster delete kit, stock master, stock brakes. They currently suck. I believe my clutch master is a 3/4, that shit is great (ACT pressure plate rated to 450 ft/lbs of torque and the pedal effort is like a stock e30)
I used this site:
to calculate how much braking torque I currently have. It's roughly 800#s. According to the website, our cars need roughly 3200-3400#s of braking torque to be good.
Not wanting to spend a shitton of money on a braking setup I decided to do a 5lug swap for a budget BBK. This setup is (IMO) just as good as any fancy BBK out there as far as braking torque goes, maybe not for cooling/track longevity but that's not an issue I'll be running into. I just want stock braking power back :(
$240 Lithuanian front hub adapters - allows you to bolt non-M e36/46 hub/wheelbearing assemblies onto your stock struts. They seem to be well made and are priced good. The 16mm 'set screw' is goddamn billet, which gets big brownie points in my book. Also, will push your wheel out by roughly 12mm
$200 6 cylinder non-M Z3 rear hubs - fits in the stock trailing arm / wheel bearing, also sticks your wheel out by about 23mm
$500 E46 front hub / wheel bearing assemblies
$seeabove E46 330i front and rear brakes - reading how big they are on the internet does not do them justice. The rotors are fukken HUGE.
$200 Hawk HP pads all around
20ish mm spacer for the caliper bracket in the rear
According to the calculator, this setup DOUBLES the amount of available braking torque. With a 5/8" master I'll be putting out roughly 3500#s of braking torque. One downside is that your wheels get pushed out a bit and that they need to be 17"s.
The big pluses for me are that aside from the pads (unless you wanna get regular stuff) all the wear parts have off-the-shelf availability. Also, the tire selection for 17's is kickass compared to 16's (and they're much cheaper). You're getting the same braking power (maybe not efficiency and longevity) as a fancy custom BBK for all four wheels, but essentially a new set of wheels and tires for free.Comment
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That website is pretty handy. I'm also thinking of a 5 lug for a BBK.
I just ordered the clutch and flywheel so I can try* to drop the engine in this weekend but my engine doesn't have any bell housing bolts..where could I get some without going to LKQ
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looking awesome man!
if you find the measurements or a place to get them would you post it? I am in the same boat.Originally posted by Jack89i View PostComment
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Just checked google maps and it looks like you've got a few Fastenall stores in Raleigh. They specialize in nuts and bolts, though they do sell other things. Find a bolt that fits in the block, see how far deep it goes then add that length to the thickness of the bellhousing ears. They most likely will have your bolts in stock, if not they can get special order stuff within a few days. Also, you can get them in regular hex and won't have to deal with those inverse torx heads!
Oh yeah they're also cheap as shit too. Less than $10 for everything probably.Comment
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No that is a flaming river joint. The joints are 54splineX17mm with a 3/4" DD shaft
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good info. thanks manComment
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Originally posted by irrelevante30 View Post
Yea those are the same joints but I used this shaft https://www.flamingriver.com/index.p...s0004/FR1850SS
I'll take a close up picture of it when I get home
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Came in today
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Don't have a buddy to hold the crankshaft bolt while you undo the flywheel? No problem!
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Yea i guess that works. So how thick are the tranny ears on the (I have no idea what transmissions the v8 cars use)? Reason I ask is the bolts they gave you have a whole lot of shank to em... I guess you could make them work with a whole lot of washers, but I'd have concerns about the shank bottoming out.
In the future request allthread bolts / ones with no shank.Comment
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My M60 swap
Got some goodies today
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