E30ls1

[Reyhan335]

I usually just buy my custom driveshafts from Strange Engineering. $275 or so for a 3" chromoly shaft with 1350 u-joints. On lower hp stuff that needs more clearance, I just buy them from Coleman racing. 2.5" steel shaft with 1310 u joints for $180. Jegs sells them and they are available in .5" increments.

That doesnt include the slip yoke, but you should have that first anyway to get the proper driveshaft length.

i just took it to the shop and told them to do it.

[jon volk]

I usually just buy my custom driveshafts from Strange Engineering. $275 or so for a 3" chromoly shaft with 1350 u-joints. On lower hp stuff that needs more clearance, I just buy them from Coleman racing. 2.5" steel shaft with 1310 u joints for $180. Jegs sells them and they are available in .5" increments.

That doesnt include the slip yoke, but you should have that first anyway to get the proper driveshaft length.

[Reyhan335]

Ujoint comes from jags that run tomorrow. So I'm guessing they'll start Monday on it and it'll be done Wednesday?


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[sgtskid]

I'd be curious how much your driveshaft costs. Mine was probably the single most expensive part of my build. I paid right at $400 from a local shop and that includes the adapter from JTR.

[Reyhan335]

Waiting on jags that run to send me a u joint then waiting on them to ship it from California and then they can start on my driveshaft. I'm thinking 2 weeks ? Then I have to take it to an exhaust shop


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[jpod999]

Congrats on getting it running!

[Reyhan335]

Thankful for a friend of mine who's a bad ass welder. Check it out. Fits at the bottom original spot for the radiator. And the hoses don't have to be so kinked up









Also got a trailer. Hopefully taking it to the driveshaft shop Monday.


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[Reyhan335]

i am so hyped. plugged up the computer, turned the key and the fuel pump turned on. my heart dropped. then turned it on and it was ready to be born again. i am so happy

[Nick_08]

Check it out

https://www.facebook.com/reyhan.dzeko/posts/10208649692788930

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Cangrats!


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[Reyhan335]

Check it out

https://www.facebook.com/reyhan.dzeko/posts/10208649692788930

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[Nick_08]

I'm not sure if a 6-cyl E30 is different but the stock BMW 12V+ wiring that goes to the pump on my 316i is tiny. Mine would be noticeably warm when it had a Walbro 195lph on my RB25DET swap (while the common LS swap pump is an even larger Walbro 255lph or equivalent). Safer to run new, thicker wiring than hook it up to 25+ year old wires.



As for the harness its pretty much a standalone P&P ordeal. Power/ground hookup like any other standalone. OP would've been up and running if he had the correct PCM.

I agree with you. I can say however, that I've been running a walbro 255 for 8 years with the stock wires. FWIW

Thanks for clarifying on the harness because he made it seem very difficult considering all the troubles he is having with it.

-Nick


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[Q8y_drifter]

I ran my fuel pump relay +12v to pin 13 of C101, pin 13 then goes through a fuse in the stock e30 fuse block and then back to your pump. That's how BMW did it 25 years ago. The LS PCM triggers the fuel pump relay by SUPPLYING +12V (pin 9-red connector) the other side of the relay goes to ground.

I'm not sure if a 6-cyl E30 is different but the stock BMW 12V+ wiring that goes to the pump on my 316i is tiny. Mine would be noticeably warm when it had a Walbro 195lph on my RB25DET swap (while the common LS swap pump is an even larger Walbro 255lph or equivalent). Safer to run new, thicker wiring than hook it up to 25+ year old wires.

As for the harness its pretty much a standalone P&P ordeal. Power/ground hookup like any other standalone. OP would've been up and running if he had the correct PCM.

[Nick_08]

These wires are going to melt! Is this really where the PSI harness gets its power from? If that's the case you definitely need to fix this.

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[Nick_08]

I hope this works... I've been following your thread for a long time just to watch your progress and it's honestly been like pulling teeth.

Whoever you got that motor and trans combo from really fucked you.

And lastly, for the money one of them "plug and play" harnesses cost you should be able to connect it in your sleep. You would have been better off making your own harness and would have saved a bunch of money and know every wire and what its for. I ran my fuel pump relay +12v to pin 13 of C101, pin 13 then goes through a fuse in the stock e30 fuse block and then back to your pump. That's how BMW did it 25 years ago. The LS PCM triggers the fuel pump relay by SUPPLYING +12V (pin 9-red connector) the other side of the relay goes to ground.

"Pin#13 – Violet/Red – Fuel pump – This pin in the power supply for the e30 fuel pump. 12v from the fuel pump relay enters at this pin, passes through fuse11 then heads to the fuel pump in the rear of the car. Obviously you need this one connected." http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=163088

You should get bigger/better ground wire for your engine to chassis (1/0 gauge) and I would make sure that PCM ground your using in the glove box is good (<0.5ohm). It's critical since the PCM reads sensors that are grounded to the engine block>chassis.

Looking forward to updates.

-Nick

[lemansguy]

thats great news! nice to catch a break