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I hate wiring, Help me 4x4 my IX! No Spark, FML

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    I hate wiring, Help me 4x4 my IX! No Spark, FML

    Trying to track down why my buddies 325ix doesn't have spark. No power to the coil. CPS (crank position sensor) Tests good (OHMS) tests good all the way to the DME (continuity tests ok at the pins at the DME)



    I went though this guide:

    I do not get power to the DME Pin 27. I bolded it below.


    Does any one know where pin 27 leads to or where it connects/ branches off? So maybe I can track it to see if its grounded out or something?



    For the engine to run the following conditions must be met:

    Power on DME pins:
    27 Start Input
    18 Un-switched Power input
    37 Power Input from Main Relay

    Ground on DME pins 2, 14, 19, 24

    Timing data from the CPS on DME pins 47 & 48 from a rotating engine

    To have spark power must be present at the coil positive and ground pulses
    from the DME's pin 1 must reach the coil negative. Power to the coil is
    controlled by the ignition switch via C101. When checking for spark, use the
    output lead from the coil to eliminate the distributor, rotor and plug wires.

    To have injector firing power must be present at each injector and ground
    pulses from the DME's pin 16 (Bank1) and pin 17 (Bank2) must reach the
    respective injector bank. Note that the injectors are wired as two banks of
    three. With cylinder 1,3,5 being bank 1 and 2,4,6 being bank 2. Power to the
    injectors is controlled by the main relay.

    The fuel pump relay must have power on pin 86 (relay coil) from the main relay
    output (pin 87) and power on pin 30. The DME will ground pin 85 to turn on the
    relay and power the pump(s) via pin 87. Of the above, only the fuel pump power
    is fused. So if the there's power at pin 87, but not at the pump, check fuse
    11.

    The main relay and DME pin 18 receive power from the smaller of the two wires
    that connect to the battery's positive terminal. That wire incorporates an
    in-line fuse. When the DME is presented with a start signal, it grounds the
    main relay pin 85 and furnishes power to the fuel pump relay, injectors, and
    DME.

    Troubleshooting:

    Disconnect the battery and the DME cable. Then:

    1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to
    DME pin 1. Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.

    2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560
    ohms. If the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change
    from about 500 to 540-560 when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
    sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.

    3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel
    pump relay 85.

    Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 0.040"), plug the
    relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
    following checks:

    1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay
    86 & 30.

    2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27 and pin
    18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
    injectors and fuel pump relay.

    3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2,
    14, 19, 24).

    4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive and at fuel pump relay
    pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

    The engine will start and run (if poorly) with only those connections to the
    DME in place. The other signals from Cylinder ID, AFM, temp sensor, etc., are
    necessary for proper operation. But they won't prevent the engine from firing.

    IMPORTANT:

    A power check means seeing a voltage within about a tenth of a volt of what
    you measure across the batter terminals, which should be at least 12.6v on a
    charged battery.

    A continuity check means seeing less that 1 ohm of resistance.

    An open circuit means seeing a resistance of at least 100k ohms.

    A good quality auto-ranging Digital Multimeter will make these tests much
    easier.



    END Guide.





    Thanks for looking, I hope to find something.



    2000 e39 [Daily Driver]
    1990 e30 Coupe [Prepping as a Spec e30 Race Car]
    1986 e30 Coupe [Caged Drift Car]
    1985 e30 Sedan [For sale]

    #2
    Update: we found that the 27 pin is a solid green light gauge wire that goes through the fuse box and firewall. Goes into a black box right near the clutch pedal. I jumped power to it, which gave me power to the coil. Still no spark.

    Another symptom: DME isn't sending ground to the fuel pump relay. If I just jump power, the fuel pump will run. (no, the relay isn't bad.)

    Comment


      #3
      maybe bad coil?bad dme?
      ground?
      check all fuses.
      when you turn key from ignition you get power to starter?
      bad wires?

      Comment


        #4
        Where in Riverslime are you? I'm in Chino and have a DME and some other shit we can use to test this beast. PM me

        Originally posted by ROLLingKING
        i have a bronzit and plan on making it look sweet.
        Originally posted by slammin.e28
        Moral of this story?

        If you drive your e30 on stairs, you're gonna have a bad time.

        Comment


          #5
          pin 27 is switched +12v from the key

          it's only purpose is to provide power to a small circuit in the ECU that turns on the relay, which actually powers the ECU and everything else through pin 37.
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

          Comment


            #6
            Dinan: coil just came off a running car today. Tried swapping DME's with a spare engine to no avail. Turning the key to the on position causes the horn to beep once. Keep turning it and it turns the motor over. The only fuse that I have found blown is the horn fuse. Blows the fuse every time I put a new one in and hit the horn.

            Accident: PM incoming.

            So possibly bad ignition nando?

            Comment


              #7
              the switch could be bad, yes. the ignition switch also powers the coil and FP relay.

              you can check pin 18 on the C101 connector, it should be hot with the key turned on.
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

              Comment


                #8
                Hmmmm. ok, I may be able to find one today. I wouldn't have to replace the part for the key, right? Just the switch inside the column?

                Comment


                  #9
                  yeah, the switch is a seperate part.

                  I'd check to see if it's working first.
                  Build thread

                  Bimmerlabs

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Gotcha. I'll see what the Bentley manual says about testing/replacing them.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      well you can just check for voltage at pin 18 of the C101 with the key on. I think you can uplug the engine harness side of the C101 for that.

                      the C101 is a round 20 pin connector on the firewall above the brake booster. the top portion of the plug goes to the engine harness, the bottom portion to the body harness.
                      Build thread

                      Bimmerlabs

                      Comment


                        #12
                        DME connector pin 18 has power with the key on.
                        Last edited by JakeP; 10-21-2010, 07:26 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          then the switch isn't the issue.

                          How about the pin itself, is it clean? can you check continuity/resistance from the engine harness side of pin 18 to pin 27 of the motronic connector?

                          heres another one - are you sure the main relay works? since the ECU turns on the FP relay, without a working main relay the FP will not work.
                          Build thread

                          Bimmerlabs

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Pin appeared clean. For continuity, are you talking about going from the round plug by the fuse box to the ECU connector?

                            Swapped the main relay just to make sure, and I hear the relay click on when I turn the key on, or jump pins 2 and 36 (going off memory).

                            Comment


                              #15
                              yes

                              just cause the relay clicks doesn't mean it's working. Heck, even if it's working doesn't mean it's working. Mine was recently turning off randomly. Took a couple weeks to figure that one out...
                              Build thread

                              Bimmerlabs

                              Comment

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