is your check engine light coming on with the key in run? If not, the DME either isnt getting power or is broken
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I hate wiring, Help me 4x4 my IX! No Spark, FML
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Originally posted by dark89e30 View PostDo you have a check engine light with the key turned to run?
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yeah, that's referencing the check panel above the rearview mirror. assuming none of the other lights are on, the brake light should go away the first time you hit the brake pedal, and take the CHECK light with it. Also pushing the CHECK button on the panel will stop the flashing as well.
Originally posted by ROLLingKINGi have a bronzit and plan on making it look sweet.Originally posted by slammin.e28Moral of this story?
If you drive your e30 on stairs, you're gonna have a bad time.
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if i get my paycheck today i'll be more than happy to drive out there and try to hammer this out with you.
Originally posted by ROLLingKINGi have a bronzit and plan on making it look sweet.Originally posted by slammin.e28Moral of this story?
If you drive your e30 on stairs, you're gonna have a bad time.
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Originally posted by JakeP View PostYes, check engine light is flashing with the key on.
Check engine light should be solid in the bottom left corner of the cluster, right around the foglight symbol.
EDIT: Nevermind, everyone else already said that lol.
But just throwing it out there, the relays should all be fine. The harness and relays were taken from my car, which ran flawlessly up until I wrecked it. I suck at electrical work, though, so I can't really help diagnose.Matt
Originally posted by slammin.e28guyI pack my CD player with asbestos. Those mother fuckers pay dearly for stealing my shit.Originally posted by kronustry whacking parts of the motor with a wrench while yelling "YOU WANT SUMMA DIS? HUH?"Originally posted by chadthestampedeThis is like a reverse build thread; it starts out nice and gets shitty.
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Just because you have continuity to ground does not mean you have good ground. You'd have to measure voltage drop under load to determine that. If your coil is not getting batt positive, its prob a 90% chance the ignition switch is the problem, just based on that. Pin 18 is hot at all times, pin 27 is the dme turn on lead and splits to the coil AFTER the ignition switch. Go buy a NEW ignition switch.
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Hey Jake, I'll try and pull my ignition switch so when you come by Friday you can grab that too. Unless you have a spare on hand already.Matt
Originally posted by slammin.e28guyI pack my CD player with asbestos. Those mother fuckers pay dearly for stealing my shit.Originally posted by kronustry whacking parts of the motor with a wrench while yelling "YOU WANT SUMMA DIS? HUH?"Originally posted by chadthestampedeThis is like a reverse build thread; it starts out nice and gets shitty.
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