What do you consider light drag for a valve adjustment?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
adjusting valves
Collapse
X
-
That is a very subjective judgment. The best way to adjust the valves is with a spring tool applied to the eccentric. You put a bend in the spring and get just the amount of pressure on the feeler gage as is needed. You can get the tool from Bavauto (Part # : 113070).The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
-
Very subjective. Some people have a "loose" interpretation where you can kinda just slide the feeler gauge in there and it has VERY minute play..others prefer it "tight" where you kind of have to force the feeler gauge in there after you adjusted it. The middle is of course where its not too loose, but you can feel the friction, without forcing it out.Originally posted by TSI♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫OEM+
Comment
-
Just remember when adjusting valves that you do it when it's hot, other wise it will not get the proper clearance when it's hot.sigpic
85 swartz/metallic 325E
84 alpine 325E
85 zinnoberot 318i/R.I.P
84 Bronzit 318i/sold
purchase feed back here=http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...82#post3535282
Comment
-
^^^ umm no. you can do them hot or stone cold. and cold is best because most can not do it fast enough before the engine cools down past the hot valve adjustment temp. so best would be stone cold and take your time. do it right-FREEDOM- is cruisin at 80, windows down and listening to the perfect song-thinking "this is it"
-The Beauty in the Tragedy-
MECHANIC SMASH!!- (you all know you do it)
Got Drop?? ;-)
Originally posted by JinormusJBut of course
E30s are know to be notoriously really really really ridiculously good looking
Comment
-
With all the engines I have built, both fuel injected and carbureted and small engines like quads and dirtbikes. I have found it best to do it when the engine is at normal operating temperature. In fact for most engines the specs they give you for proper valve lash is actually set at normal operating temperature. It takes an engine on average between 2 to 4 hours to completely cool down. That is more than adequate time to adjust valve lash. If you cannot do it in that amount of time you probably shouldn't be even attempting to do that.sigpic
85 swartz/metallic 325E
84 alpine 325E
85 zinnoberot 318i/R.I.P
84 Bronzit 318i/sold
purchase feed back here=http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...82#post3535282
Comment
-
bmw is not anything like small engines like quads and dirt bikes. or any other engine for that matter
In the "books" for e30s it even says to do them when the engine is "stone cold"
and there is a difference between a hot engine and a warm engine-FREEDOM- is cruisin at 80, windows down and listening to the perfect song-thinking "this is it"
-The Beauty in the Tragedy-
MECHANIC SMASH!!- (you all know you do it)
Got Drop?? ;-)
Originally posted by JinormusJBut of course
E30s are know to be notoriously really really really ridiculously good looking
Comment
-
( adjusting valves ) I'll agree that set cold gap is for when the engine dose warm up.
Originally posted by CHIF8008 View Postbmw is not anything like small engines like quads and dirt bikes. or any other engine for that matter
In the "books" for e30s it even says to do them when the engine is "stone cold"
and there is a difference between a hot engine and a warm engine
Comment
-
Originally posted by crazyman View PostWith all the engines I have built, both fuel injected and carbureted and small engines like quads and dirtbikes. I have found it best to do it when the engine is at normal operating temperature. In fact for most engines the specs they give you for proper valve lash is actually set at normal operating temperature. It takes an engine on average between 2 to 4 hours to completely cool down. That is more than adequate time to adjust valve lash. If you cannot do it in that amount of time you probably shouldn't be even attempting to do that.
most people are just too scared to try it. I do tend to wear leather gloves though, because it stays quite hot for a while.
FIY: the valve gap actually gets bigger as the engine warms up. I've always ended up with a much quieter engine adjusting them hot. Even better would be adjusting them with a running engine, if it were possible.
If you don't want to do it hot - fine - but stop telling everyone that doing it hot is "wrong", when there's a BMW spec for it. Doing it cold is the easy way, not neccesarily the best way.
also, either way you do it, it's possible to put too much pressure on the eccentric, and slightly open the valve. so what happens is the valve stays partway open when the engine is cold, and it runs like ass. the spring loaded tool is definitely the way to go here.
Comment
-
This thread has got to have some of the silliest shit about valve adjusting I have ever seen.
All the books say "stone cold", but they aren't talking about 20 degrees F, either. Somewhere around 75 F would make sense, ambient temps of a nice day.
Much warmer than that and the engine will cool while adjusting, making the whole job inaccurate.
The point of "lashing" the valves is to allow for heat expansion. If you could maintain a nice consistent temperature you could adjust for whatever spec you wanted, as long as you recognize that the engines temp needs to stay consistent. Good luck keeping the motor at 160, right? Keep the motor right around 75 degrees F, as you can do that temp pretty much all year.
Tightness again is just like the temp: consistency is the key. If you wanna sprain your wrist shoving a feeler gauge in there, go right ahead...but do it 12 times. I say a "moderate" drag is adequate, but only after you wipe away the oil film between the rocker tip and the stem.
Now if we can get all you fools to use a pushbutton switch on the damn diagnostic port to bump the starter over instead of bumping it while pushing the car back and forth...
Comment
-
OP the spring adjuster works well you can also use a go-no go type gauge until you get the 'feel' of it.
As far as the hot/cold adjustment, they should net you close to the same result and I highly recommend cold If you have not adjusted valves before.
As for the hot/cold debate, I suggest doing an initial adjust stone cold especially if it has not been done in a while or your first adjustment on it to get it set to your feel and doing a recheck at running temp hot and adjust the couple that maybe off and then installing your new VC gasket.
An old shop trick - you can take the VC off and use a large house fan set on top of the head and take it down to cold in about 20 mins.
Comment
-
very interesting thread, lots of good info
Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View PostNow if we can get all you fools to use a pushbutton switch on the damn diagnostic port to bump the starter over instead of bumping it while pushing the car back and forth...
I jacked up one side of the car and put it in 5th, and turned the back wheel(made it a 2person job)
Comment
-
Originally posted by nando View PostEven better would be adjusting them with a running engine, if it were possible.
I have done mine like that before. Unplug AFM, remove valve cover, start motor and adjust valves. Works fine. Kind of dicey (don't get your shirt cuff caught in the cam...) but completely doable.
Comment
-
Originally posted by CorvallisBMW View PostWho says you can't?
I have done mine like that before. Unplug AFM, remove valve cover, start motor and adjust valves. Works fine. Kind of dicey (don't get your shirt cuff caught in the cam...) but completely doable.
Unfortunately I can't even attempt it since my coils are mounted on the VC.
Comment
Comment