Originally posted by CorvallisBMW
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adjusting valves
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well the car idles at ~650rpm
cam rotates at 1/2 crank speed
60 seconds in a minute
6 cylinders on the engine
650/2/6 = ~55 openings a minute (a bit more than 1 second)
I dunno, it's tight but he says he did it.. you'd have more time at a lower idle speed (maybe that's why he unplugs the AFM?).
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The AFM needs to be unplugged because the engine normally runs in a vacuum. With the valve cover off it's no longer in vacuum, which throws the AFM out of whack and makes the car start 'hunting', revving from 500rpm to 1500 and back again, constantly bouncing. Unplugging the AFM sets the engine in to a closed-loop mode and keeps the idle steady.
You can still do this on many older OHV V8s from the 60s, before emissions controls forced them to run the crankcase in vacuum. Most old domestic guys adjust their valve lash with the valve cover off and engine running b/c it's the most accurate.
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Originally posted by bzboardz View Post
more info on this please
I jacked up one side of the car and put it in 5th, and turned the back wheel(made it a 2person job)
If you jumper between 2 pins on the diagnostic port, the starter runs.
I do not recall which pins, so I check every time. Do a quick google of "unofficial BMW diagnostic port" and find that writeup.
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When I unplug the AFM on my car it won't run at all. Odd.
The alternative is to just plug the PCV hose if you were to take the valve cover off.
Also, when I've got the cover off on mine, oil goes EVERYWHERE.
I just don't see how you can accurately turn the eccentric and tighten it down at the same time. Unless you're talking about just checking the lash with the engine on and making adjustments while off.Originally posted by george gravesIf people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.
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Yeah I don't quite see how it's possible to check and adjust valve lash while it's running. There would be oil squirting every where plus it would be basically impossible to get an accurate valve lash adjustment.sigpic
85 swartz/metallic 325E
84 alpine 325E
85 zinnoberot 318i/R.I.P
84 Bronzit 318i/sold
purchase feed back here=http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...82#post3535282
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Originally posted by CorvallisBMW View PostYou can't actually do the adjustment but you can check the lash with your feeler gauge. Mine never 'sprayed' oil, some of it splashed a bit as the cams spin around but it wasn't bad.Originally posted by george gravesIf people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.
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I redid them today with the "go and no go" technique instead of the up for interpretation "drag on the gauge" technique. Much quieter than the first round. Also figured I had a nice shiny new dial torque wrench, I'd torque down the lock nuts too.
And to comment on the hot or cold engine adjustment, the dealer service manual says when the engine is under 100F.Last edited by b*saint; 01-09-2011, 02:10 PM.Ma che cazzo state dicendo? :|
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Originally posted by CorvallisBMW View PostYou can still do this on many older OHV V8s from the 60s, before emissions controls forced them to run the crankcase in vacuum. Most old domestic guys adjust their valve lash with the valve cover off and engine running b/c it's the most accurate.
First time I used those aluminum oil deflectors I realized quickly that you are not supposed to rev the engine while they are on.
Those things quickly become like exploding shrapnel flying all over the place!
Forget getting my shirt caught by a rocker i was too busy ducking and dodging those damned things! :D
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I've only done this once in my life. followed the bently manual to do it. used a go-no-go feeler gauge, with the engine cold (70's in cali weather, it was off all night). I've had absolutely no problems with these adjustments, and it was super easy to do. hand turned the engine (auto trans, was very easy).
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