I replaced the oil pan gasket and used rtv sealant made for the thermostat housing and water pump instead of the ultra black rtv sealant. Am I gonna have issues or should I let it go since it's all back together and torqued down already before I noticed.
I used the wrong gasket sealer
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If it's completely back together, I would leave it and see what happens. If the pan is still accessible, I'd replace the gasket and use the proper stuff. 50/50 chance it leaks. -
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If it's am Ix Leave it and just wait and see(2 day job to get at the oil pan)
Otherwise just redo it with the proper paper gasket that is supposed to be there....it wouldn't take that longComment
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Permitex brand datasheet
TYPICAL ENVIRONMENTAL RESISTANCE
Temperature Resistance Typical Values
Continuous, °C (°F) -54 to 232 (-65 to 450)
Intermittent, °C (°F) -54 to 260 (-65 to 500)
Chemical / Solvent Resistance
The product retains effective properties in contact with
automotive fluids, such as motor oil, transmission fluids,
alcohol, and antifreeze solutions. Note: Not recommended for
parts in contact with gasoline.Comment
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It's not that the sealant will be degraded by exposing to oil. It's from the experience of many users here with leakage after putting that stuff on.Comment
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I have done the exact opposite on countless cars in my shop for years, and they don't leak, and never had any issues. I prefer the Permatex "The Right Stuff" as it's an elastomeric, not a silicone RTV. We have put this method through countless tests in race cars, both sprint and endurance. One of the motors has done five 14hr races, three sprint race weekends and still doesn't leak a drop.Comment
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I'm very curious about this as we could potentially use it in place of some of the RTV on our race motors if it's more effective. Which applications are you using it in? Manifolds, oil pans, water pumps, valve covers?I have done the exact opposite on countless cars in my shop for years, and they don't leak, and never had any issues. I prefer the Permatex "The Right Stuff" as it's an elastomeric, not a silicone RTV. We have put this method through countless tests in race cars, both sprint and endurance. One of the motors has done five 14hr races, three sprint race weekends and still doesn't leak a drop.Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

Elva Courier build thread here!Comment
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On the m20's only the oil pan as a full gasket, but on other engines have used it all over the place. It's better than Hondabond, RTV or silicone. Few years ago used it on a Hyundai Gen Coupe turbo motor we upgraded/rebuilt, still leak free, used it on several timing covers etc.
The best part about it is there's no vulcanization time. It says right on the tube that parts can be immediately put in service, and based on experience it's true. Also on the tube it gives a list of OEM part numbers it replaces for various mfgr's.
It's only drawback is it is on the expensive side. I purchase it in caulking gun tube sizes which is $60 per tube, but it really does go a along way. Very light coat on the parts so it doesn't squeeze out.Comment
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I got your argument, but for an oil pan, if cork gasket does not leak then why add sealant? I can see the benefit of using this stuff elsewhere. On many of M20 engines, the original gaskets w/o sealant have lasted for more than 20 years.Comment
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I have never had a cork gasket last. Even worse is the rubber/aluminum "upgraded" gaskets that BMW has been putting in everything after the m20.
And I have never seen an original gasket that wasn't leaking.Comment
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Confirmed original? My e30 suddenly made a James Bond smoke show on the highway when it was only 17yrs old. Took the trans cover off where the oil was pouring out and the entire rear section of the gasket was just missing. Pulled the pan and the gasket crumbled to pieces.Comment


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