No Crank - is it the Starter? Fixed

[Westija]

Hi all,

Car is a 1989 325i Automatic. We have had this car for a few months now but have not used it much. Just yesterday I drove for a good 35 miles and another short ride and have had no problems.

Today my son took it for a short ride and after he parked it for about 30-45 minutes the car did not crank when he returned. I need some help since electrical is definitely something I am not good at.

This is the second time this happened. Last time was a few months ago and I found that the Ground Cable from the Oil Pan to the Frame was in pretty bad shape, so I replaced it by a new one from CA Tuned and it has not happened again until today.

Here is what we have done so far to try to fix and troubleshoot the issue:

• We jumped the battery using another car and it did not crank (no change)
• Jumped with a charger/booster from the Tow Truck and it did not crank either
• Electric Windows, dash lights, etc. are working
• Battery Voltage is 12.49V
• Battery Ground Cable to Strut Tower checked OK for Continuity
• We can hear a click at the Starter when we try to start it (solenoid probably good?)
• Battery Positive Cable to Starter Solenoid (terminal 30) OK for Continuity: Voltage at the Starter Solenoid Lug is 12.45V
• Engine Ground Cable that I mentioned above I replaced in the past: I have removed it, cleaned both ends and the areas where it sits and tested OK for continuity
• Fuse # 10 is OK. If I read the schematics correctly, the Automatic Cars use this Fuse to provide power to the Neutral/Pak Switch, which in turn activates the Starter Relay to allow Ignition power to reach the Starter Solenoid.
• Starter Ground Cable (very short cable from Starter Solenoid to Starter Body) tested OK for continuity. Continuity is OK between the Starter Body and Car Frame.
• Voltage at the Starter Solenoid terminal 50 (where the BK/YL wire is connected): 11.8V with ignition key at "Start"
• Voltage at the other Starter Solenoid Terminal (I think this is what the manual calls the field-winding connecting strap): 11.8V with ignition key at "Start"

Since we got Voltage at the Starter Solenoid with the key at "Start", we did not proceed to test the Automatic Neutral/Park Switch, the Start Relay, the Load Reduction Relays, Ignition Switch, DME or Crank Position Sensor. We assume they are OK since we got Voltage at the Solenoid.

We think we have a bad Starter and need to replace it. We suspect it was probably on its way to fail when it did not crank last time too.

Any ideas? Do we need to test the rest of the components I listed or anything else?

[ForcedFirebird]

Hit it with a hammer, might get another start or two out of it. More then likely the brushes are clogged up.

[M_3_X]

Definitely sounds like a starter.

[Westija]

Quick follow up to this.
I have ordered a reman Starter and replaced it and fixed the problem. Car starts fine now.

For those planning to replace a Starter, prepare yourself with lots of patience to avoid frustration. This is a real painful project. I've researched a lot and most people complain about it. Some removed the Intake, some the Transmission and some say it was not needed.
I removed the Air Filter Box and did not remove the Intake. However in my case - Auto Transmission - I was not really able to reach the eTorx Bolts. Tried with multiple extensions, u-joints, etc. and not enough space coming from behind the Trans or from the front. The firewall and the Trans Dipstick make it impossible.
So, for the lower eTorx bolt, I jammed a rubber piece between the bolt and the Trans Hosing and loosened the nut from the front. I stuck a large plier to hold the upper bolt while loosening the nut and counted on my son's patience to reach it.
Tightening was somewhat the same, but I was not able to apply a high torque to the nuts and hope they stay in place.
Pix of the tools used to do it. Painter's tape used to reduce the u-joint flexibility, so we could go through the hoses/wires and keep the Socket aimed right. What a pain.

[2mAn]

Congrats on getting it done. The starter is tucked into a fun place to deal with...

[twright]

I know this is too late, but: Would it help to lower the subframe and inch? Would this give you more clearance to get to the bolts?

[Westija]

I know this is too late, but: Would it help to lower the subframe and inch? Would this give you more clearance to get to the bolts?

It would help, I think, but the hardest thing to me was the space (or lack of) at the firewall to properly lock the etorx bolt in place. I think it is more of a front-rear kind of thing than up-down. Many people mention they lower the transmission a bit, but I did not want to try that for fear of messing something else up.