Originally posted by M-technik-3
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The 5 Year Restoration - E30 M3 Reborn
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Nice work... Im about 60% the way thru a complete rebuild of a 91 318iS and I know what youre going through!!
Still cant believe you only paid 13500$.. Ive never seen one under 25000$.. Im going to see one, all stock, 1990,165000 on the odo for 23000$... I thought that was an amazing price....its not listed anywhere, just luck on my part...
13500$ would be ridiculously cheap... Id buy 2 for that price!!!
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Alright guys, here's what I've been up to!
I decided that paint needs to happen first, so that I can start reinstalling things on a permanent basis. Why put I the new interior bits, etc if I just have to rip them back off for paint. To keep the cost down I'm doing the tear down myself.
First to clear out some space I put the dash ducts back in after cleaning them. These things get so dirty - explains the musty smell the car had
Going to need new visors probably
And a new antenna, this one's seen better days
Sunroof was a tough one to get off. There are good guides out there but I jumped in head first and figured it out. To do it better, follow a guide (I'll post later)
Seals surrounding the sunroof comes off by pushing down toward the cabin the shorter one is to the front, longer one is to the rear. Mine were dried out so they're being replaced
Next I removed the wind deflector. It's held on by several screws along the front edge of the sunroof and connects to two arms on the side, which are easily pried free of their plastic retaining clips
I then carefully peeled back the vinyl/leather front headliner off the leading edge of the sunroof. The rear of this piece is attached to the roof by two silver screws which go down into plastic retaining braces glued to the backside of the front headliner.
Take off your front visors if you haven't done so already, very self explanatory - 4 visible screws.
The front portion of the headliner should then drop free
I fixed my loose plastic clip with contact cement (not glued in place here yet, but you can see where it goes)
Looks like my leather shrunk at some point and has pulled away from the backing - will be recovered or replaced.
You can do this first or now, but before you remove the screws on the side of the sunroof, remove the upholstery under the roof. The side that faces toward the windshield is held on by 6 metal clips. Use a plastic pry tool to pop it free. The rear is held on by two arms that are riveted to the upholstery and clip into the bar that slides along the track at the rear. I was confused by these at first, but once you see it apart it's easy to understand...
One of my retaining clips was broken. Easy to replace I think
Note that I had already taken out the body colored panel in these shots, I would recommend doing the upholsterers side first
Then I removed the six screws holding down the sunroof panel. Looks like one had been missing for a while.
My guides and cables probably need to be replaced. After going through this I'm not surprised it moves slowly, one was completely cracked.
The. I slid the rail that holds the upholstered section forward off the tracks
And removed the side screws
At this point I removed the black plates and metal guides (DISCLAIMER: I still haven't figured out this part with the cables, will update when I do)
The long flat silver track bits don't want to come off. They are very thin so I don't want to force them. Anyone have experience with these?
I also removed the rear screws to free up the headliner from the back of the sunroof
The fabric backing on the headliner was pretty fragile. Most of it stayed on the surface, but all of the headliner's outer material came off easily.
I carefully detached the foam from in front of the sunroof
NOW - a moment I've been waiting for since last March
I used a $17 kit from Harbor Freight. Worked perfectly. I would have taped it off if I hadn't been planning on having the area overhauled and repainted, I scuffed it a couple times. I'll be taping off the rear window before removing.
That's how she sits now. Getting closer to paint!
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Working on the rear windshield. The little clip at the top just slides over and you can gently pry off the metal trim. It is secured by small gray clips on the windshield that are taped to the glass and have Arms that slide beneath the glass. I pried these off very carefully, only broke one.
The rubber gasket on the front of the trunk lid comes out by opening the trunk and pulling straight down
Both trim pieces and all clips off. I've since taped off the glass side with painters tape and will be doing the same for the paint side. Before I cut I'm going to add a layer of metallic tape to prevent the wire from cutting through the painters tape.
More to come
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Just read threw this whole thread, nice pick up! I for one think you got a steal of a deal. Not sure how much prices have went up since you purchased the car, but I would have bought it in a heartbeat for that price if I saw it posted today on Craigslist.
Side note, does anyone know why M3 "cowl's" are more prone to rust then coupes/ sedans? Or is it not only a M3 problem.
1992 M tech 2 Convertible - S50 Swap
1992 e34 Touring- S50 Swap
1992 325i-S50 Swap (SOLD)
1995 e36 M3 Mugello Red - S50 (SOLD)
1991 325i Convertible Laguna Green (SOLD)
1987 325i (SOLD);1992 M tech 2 Convertible (SOLD)
1988 325i Convertible Alpine White (SOLD)
1991 Brilliantrot Convertible 80k Miles (SOLD)
1992 325i Convertible Schwarz (SOLD)
1992 318i Convertible Project-Finished (SOLD)
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New M3 Owner... The Build Thread
Thanks! The reason M3 cowls rust more is that the windshields are glued in, and if done improperly the epoxy will block the drain holes, causing water to pool and the metal to rust. Regular E30 windshields are only held in by a lock gasket, so no epoxy to block the hole. That said, they still rust, and the rust on my M3 has nothing to do with drain holes
I spent a bit of time with the car tonight. Removed the headliner finally.
A couple tips... I wasn't able to find a good description of how the back of the headliner fastens in. I figured it out and it's really simple, just carefully yank down on the back and it will snap down
Here are the tabs that lock together. Be careful to not break the plastic or bend the metal. That brown junk is cloth and glue, not rust.
For some reason one of the tensioner rods that keeps the fabric taught has one side that detaches. I think this is oem, but could be wrong
Also, my foam insert was glued in the back VERY well. I used this non-marring scraper from harbor freight to cut through the foam as close to the roof as possible. Kept it all in one piece
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That'll def do it lol.
Love your attention to detail and really appreciate the picsI BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
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