Tim's Classic Parts Wheel Hubs for a bolt-on swap?

[e30davie]

I'm surprised there isnt an oem 5 stud hub that can go onto the e30 spindle/upright with perhaps specifically selected bearings to make it fit. I've not personally changed or pulled apart wheel bearings on the e30 (yet...), and they do look like they are sort of integrated into the hub, but they got in there somehow, so where there is a will there is a way, and probably a large press.

[hozzziii]

Is this not the same thing that you posted before?

No the first post had both bolt patterns, which we deduced is probably the oem E30 hub the guy is just redrilling.
the one that Mazi posted has only 5-lug pattern and is a direct bolt on hub-and-bearing for E30s.

I'm surprised there isnt an oem 5 stud hub that can go onto the e30 spindle/upright with perhaps specifically selected bearings to make it fit. I've not personally changed or pulled apart wheel bearings on the e30 (yet...), and they do look like they are sort of integrated into the hub, but they got in there somehow, so where there is a will there is a way, and probably a large press.

Well, you can weld a bar to the bearing and press it out of the hub.
I actually had to do this but that was a bearing on the ac compressor.

So what you mean is:
1) get a 5-lug hub which probably includes the bearing
2) press the bearing out cuz it probably won't fit on the E30 strut/trailing arms.
3) measure the hub inner diameter and strut/trailing arm outer diameter and buy a bearing accordingly.
4) press it all in

Am I correct?

[e30davie]

That is what i had in mind yep.

[DEV0 E30]

Oh hey, missed this thread of course.

[tyeler18]

Ah yeah I remember that SRS Concept kit, nice to see it in action.

He used IRP for fronts, SRS for rears.

Probably bought this bundle:
https://www.drifthq.com/products/irp...30179147743279

Their currency conversion is um... hopeful?

Well I wish them good luck with their sales, I guess.

That is the kit I bought. Using e46 330 front brakes and e46 rears. Been through a few track days and lots of abusive street miles. I still think this is the best kit out there for a 5 lug swap short of M3 parts, this being significantly cheaper in a few aspects.

[dadsbmw]

The issue I'm seeing with the SRS/IRP option is that is doesn't work with the ABS without modification (not sure what that entails) and apparently doesn't work with ebrake either? Those are both things I'd very much like to keep. Plus the front track width becomes so wide none of the wheels you'd want to run will fit anyways.

[tyeler18]

The issue I'm seeing with the SRS/IRP option is that is doesn't work with the ABS without modification (not sure what that entails) and apparently doesn't work with ebrake either? Those are both things I'd very much like to keep. Plus the front track width becomes so wide none of the wheels you'd want to run will fit anyways.

The rear hand brake works fine on mine. I'm using Z4 hubs, e46 325I brakes and rotors and stock e30 hand brake components. The abs can be made to work. You need to push the tone ring out on the front hubs to get inline with the sensor. They'll need tack welded in place once moved. The rears work as is. I do agree on the front's being interesting trackwidths but they work with e30M3 offsets fine. I have a 17x9 +26 on the front of the car with a 245/40 and have zero issues. Minor rub on the front of the wheel tub at a very specific steering angle but i have M3 offset FCAB's which push the tire way forward.

Running the wheel calculator a 16x8 +35 with a 225/45 would sit about perfectly in the front with minimal clearance issues to the strut if you run coilovers. I have 3-5mm of strut clearance on a 17, less with a 16 and you have 4mm more clearance with a +35 and 8" wheel than what I currently have. Lots of e36 wheels in a +30 range

[dadsbmw]

Appreciate the insight on the ABS and ebrake. 16x8 +35 takes pretty much any factory or common aftermarket BMW wheel off the table, which sucks. Your 17x9 +26 must poke WAY out from the fender

[tyeler18]

Appreciate the insight on the ABS and ebrake. 16x8 +35 takes pretty much any factory or common aftermarket BMW wheel off the table, which sucks. Your 17x9 +26 must poke WAY out from the fender

A +20 in a 5x120 isn't a hard wheel to find by any stretch. Quite a few options. As far as the wheel sticking out- not at all. I was very meticulous with wheel calculations and has these built to fit a 255/40 under stock fenders. I run -3* front camber and ended up rolling the fenders way more than I planned before realizing I wasn't rubbing the fender just the wheel tub. This is stock fenders, unrolled with the suspension semi drooped.

Untitled by Tyeler Andersen, on Flickr

This is a 245/40/17. I can cycle the suspension fully into the fender without contact. It's all about numbers, a 235/40 would have zero issues anywhere on this setup.

Untitled by Tyeler Andersen, on Flickr

[dadsbmw]

A +20 in a 5x120 isn't a hard wheel to find by any stretch. Quite a few options. As far as the wheel sticking out- not at all. I was very meticulous with wheel calculations and has these built to fit a 255/40 under stock fenders. I run -3* front camber and ended up rolling the fenders way more than I planned before realizing I wasn't rubbing the fender just the wheel tub. This is stock fenders, unrolled with the suspension semi drooped.

I'm using your suggestion that a 16x8 +35 wheel fits perfectly, which then means a BMW e36 wheel in 16x8 +20 would have 15mm of poke compared to perfect and your 17x9 +26 setup should then sit 21mm out from perfect? That would be almost an inch of poke, no? Is -3* of camber really doing that much work to push the top of the wheel back under the fender?

[tyeler18]

I'm using your suggestion that a 16x8 +35 wheel fits perfectly, which then means a BMW e36 wheel in 16x8 +20 would have 15mm of poke compared to perfect and your 17x9 +26 setup should then sit 21mm out from perfect? That would be almost an inch of poke, no? Is -3* of camber really doing that much work to push the top of the wheel back under the fender?

I don't think you're understanding exactly, an 8" +35 would fit with absolutely zero issues anywhere is what I'm getting at. It would be well tucked under the fender. My 9" +26 is about as flush to the fender as you'd want to get. An 8" +35 gives you minimal strut clearance with maximum fender clearance allowing you to go farther out if needed. Anything much more positive than a +35 on an 8" will probably contact the strut tube and require spacers, you'll have plenty of room to the fender with them. It's only a 12mm positive offset with the IRP adapters. 9" +12 seems to be the hot ticket to fit a 245 on a stock 4 lug e30 so add 12mm of offset which puts you at a 24mm in IRP offsets. I can go slightly more positive being on a 17" wheel before strut contact but not a whole lot more.

Just use willtheyfit.com and input my 17x9 +26 and whatever wheel sizes you're looking at and it'll give you the exact differences to show where the wheel will sit in relation to mine.

[dadsbmw]

I don't think you're understanding exactly, an 8" +35 would fit with absolutely zero issues anywhere is what I'm getting at. It would be well tucked under the fender. My 9" +26 is about as flush to the fender as you'd want to get. An 8" +35 gives you minimal strut clearance with maximum fender clearance allowing you to go farther out if needed. Anything much more positive than a +35 on an 8" will probably contact the strut tube and require spacers, you'll have plenty of room to the fender with them. It's only a 12mm positive offset with the IRP adapters. 9" +12 seems to be the hot ticket to fit a 245 on a stock 4 lug e30 so add 12mm of offset which puts you at a 24mm in IRP offsets. I can go slightly more positive being on a 17" wheel before strut contact but not a whole lot more.

Just use willtheyfit.com and input my 17x9 +26 and whatever wheel sizes you're looking at and it'll give you the exact differences to show where the wheel will sit in relation to mine.

I know the math, I do it pretty frequently. I just find it crazy given my own experiences, and I'm wondering if it all comes down to camber or if you just have your fenders pulled that much? I currently run 16x8 +25 in the front with a 3mm spacer, mainly because it sits so close to the strut housing. You've got the 5 lug which pushed the track width out half an inch, which explains how you get the strut clearance on a 9" wide wheel, but I just cannot fathom fitting an extra inch of wheel on the fender side. It would 100% contact the fender on my car the way it's set up now. This is of course with stock camber and only rolled (not pulled) fenders.

[tyeler18]

The pictures above are the exact setup on the car. I sit 20mm closer than you do to the fender so only 3/4" since some of my gain is towards the strut. The camber definitely helps a lot. I can do full track days with zero contact on the fenders. I pulled my setup from a couple of HPDE cars on here with wide fronts and stock bodies and just recalculated for my 12mm positive wheel track. I previously had 16x8 +20 with a 245/45/16 on the car before 5 lug swapping and could cycle A052's without hitting the fender and they run very wide

[ForcedFirebird]

I would feel safe using re-drilled stock hubs, so long as they are decent quality. SKF and FAG are my go-to.

It's the clamping force of the hub to wheel that holds the assembly together, not the actual threads. Otherwise the same 1000hp race cars wouldn't be using the same amount/size fasteners. It's not the same as re-drilling a wheel where you need the conical/tapered seats, as well as a recess to clear the socket.

I got in an argument with one of the guys on the race team about the cost of wheel bearing upkeep (replace them yearly in the race cars). So, to prove a point, we went to the local parts store and got a pair of budget bearings. They lasted less than 2 races before having play (~20-ish hours, 80-200TW tires). We put the SKF back in and ran the a year as normal. The good bearings won't have play after a year (4-6 14hr races, plus test/track days in between), but the grease would be hard as a rock, and there would be some evidence of gouging - dull tracks in the races.