New booster option for e30 - Bosch iBooster

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  • iman53
    replied
    I made my own harness which looks pretty nice and wasn't at all difficult. the kit is pretty affordable, this is the one I used:


    Anybody can do it if you have the crimpers and if you don't they aren't that expensive either. it looks better than a bunch of crimp connectors IMO. However, using a cut plug is undoubtedly cheaper.

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  • hubcapboy
    replied
    I can confirm that the only RHD piece I picked up was the master. The booster came from California.

    The only wiring on the master is the fluid level switch, which just clips to the tank.

    Reminder for anyone who is waiting for one with pigtails: call a yard that dismantles Teslas... when I did this they were happy to cut the wires on one when they took the booster out. The plugs are just scrapped.

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  • nando
    replied
    yeah, the wiring is identical. Really, even the MCs are the same - they just drill/tap one side or the other depending on LHD or RHD. It's too bad there's no "realoem" for Tesla, because finding the RHD masters is basically impossible (or extremely expensive).

    I watched for months before picking up an LHD setup with the pigtail harness. Partially because it was cheap, and partially because it had the harness. RHD ones were 5x as expensive or worse, looked like they were dredged from the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean, and none of them came with pigtails..

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  • iman53
    replied
    Originally posted by Bored

    Looks pretty slick, happen to know if LHD wiring would fit the RHD set up? I've been asking around on ebay to source the wiring harness for the brake is pretty much impossible... I guess I can keep trying to get a RHD one.
    I believe the booster unit is the same, so wiring would be the same. The only difference is the master cylinder. I think you’re better off calling auto recyclers off car-part if you want to buy an oem harness. But If you can just buy the kit and make the harness yourself it’s probably worth it. That’s what I am going to do

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  • Bored
    replied
    Originally posted by hubcapboy
    Here's the right-hand-drive master with some adapters that I believe will work. I haven't had the e30 lines connected, but I believe I have the fittings correct on either end.
    Looks pretty slick, happen to know if LHD wiring would fit the RHD set up? I've been asking around on ebay to source the wiring harness for the brake is pretty much impossible... I guess I can keep trying to get a RHD one.

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  • hubcapboy
    replied
    Here's the right-hand-drive master with some adapters that I believe will work. I haven't had the e30 lines connected, but I believe I have the fittings correct on either end.

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  • eternal24k
    replied
    Originally posted by iman53
    Thought id share that the "remote reservoir adapter" from the Honda CRV with the ibooster fits on the tesla MC. It is also reversible, so the inlet can point in either direction. It helps me a bunch and Im sure it could be useful in other swaps.
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    sweet!

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  • iman53
    replied
    Thought id share that the "remote reservoir adapter" from the Honda CRV with the ibooster fits on the tesla MC. It is also reversible, so the inlet can point in either direction. It helps me a bunch and Im sure it could be useful in other swaps.
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  • digger
    replied
    a shield is all you need to stop the radiation "line of sight". DEI sell some self adhesive barrier that performs the same function to reflect the heat

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  • iman53
    replied
    That is a very good point. And now that I think about it my master cylinder on my manual brake setup was even closer to the exhaust than this will be. I can upload some photos later of how I mounted mine and clearances. I still think I am going to make some sort of heat shield but I’ll see what you guys think.

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  • hubcapboy
    replied
    Your first symptom, like nando says, is going to be brake fluid boiling and complete loss of braking force. Every time I get stressed out from the clearances on these projects that are cobbled together I go back and look at the engine bays where the components came from. Look at the engine bay from wherever your V8 swap came from... if the distance is similar, you'll be fine.


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  • nando
    replied
    It's already automotive grade. I don't think normal engine bay heat should be an issue. If you're melting the brake booster you're probably also boiling your brake fluid.. neither would be good.

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  • iman53
    replied
    How do you guys think one of these will hold up against heat? And what would be a good way to protect it from heat? Such as headers on a V8 car. Aluminum heat shield and wrap it in gold wrap? If I can get it worked out in my v8 car I’m very concerned with killing it with heat from the headers. Any thoughts?

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  • DMan II-40
    replied
    This is really interesting stuff. I found a thread where a guy used a Volt iboost in his DeLorian, re-flared his lines and found the connections on AliExpress (China).

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  • digger
    replied
    01 Brake master cylinder 22,20/17,46MM 1 05/1987 34311157206

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