New booster option for e30 - Bosch iBooster

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • hoveringuy
    replied
    Originally posted by LukeJ

    You pretty much covered it. Lots of labor.
    I disagree..

    Just drill and tap for 3/8-24 and install an adapter to 4.75mm bubble flare.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    Digging through some EV forums - I found a store that you can buy the connectors, pins, etc - possibly a lot cheaper than sending them from the UK for like $150.
    https://store.chiefenterprises.com/1...-Way-Connector

    It looks like they have the cover, pedal travel connector, pins, seals, etc. And it seems cheap enough.

    Last edited by nando; 10-01-2020, 10:57 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by LukeJ

    You pretty much covered it. Lots of labor.
    The LHD Model 3 MC has the ports on the right side for us, as does the RHD Model S. Probably not worth machining the LHD Model S MC given the costs.

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    One last thought - how different is the E30 master cylinder end from the ones that fit into the iBooster?

    Leave a comment:


  • tyeler18
    replied
    Can you take a measurement from the inboard most stud on the booster, to the inboard most point on the booster? I think the heads on my LS in my car occupy about where this would bolt to the firewall, but I'd be curious to see how much I'd need to shift it over for it to work.

    I applaud you for digging into this more, I've been eyeing this swap since it was mentioned but I have a remote hydroboost in the car so I never pursued it very far. I'd like to ditch the cluster with the remote booster and this is the most ideal way to do so.

    Leave a comment:


  • LukeJ
    replied
    Originally posted by hubcapboy
    I’m definitely looking into tapping it on the other side. I don’t have any experience with this kind of machine work, but I expect it would require disassembling the cylinder, facing the casting, drilling and tapping the threads, and cutting the seat for the flare... and then probably re-boring the cylinder to clean up the mess?

    Its harder than drilling and tapping for a bolt, certainly.
    LukeJ might be the guy to answer that.
    You pretty much covered it. Lots of labor.

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    I need to get back to working, but this PDF has a lot of information about the iBoost system in general - the main topic is about sudden acceleration on Teslas and other electric vehicles, which apparently is caused by the iBoost/regen system, but that doesn't apply to us of course. Skip to the appendix and there's an explanation of how the brake force transfer curves work.

    This thing is definitely programmable. I'm guessing it has a security key, so you'd have to crack that first. Of course, the programming in the model S could be well perfectly acceptable for the E30. I think if anything, it will feel overboosted, but given the 25mm vs 23mm master cylinder, I'll bet that ends up being a wash.

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    How about the Model 3 booster? Firewall end looks the same? There are way more Model 3 than Model S - should be cheaper/easier to find:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	s-l1600.jpg Views:	0 Size:	49.7 KB ID:	9953584

    Looks like the Model 3 uses the 2nd gen iBooster.
    Last edited by nando; 10-01-2020, 09:24 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    I should have read the above posts first. lol.

    yeah, this looks pretty much bolt on. The level switch is probably easy to implement.

    Now how about the pedal travel sensor? (edit - had a look - it's built into the booster, no need to mess with it, maybe it just needs power?)



    What adapters do we need for the brake lines, or maybe just swap out the ends on the stock E30 lines?

    Also, the Model X is pretty similar to the Model S. I'll bet they come with the same booster, although it's heavier so the MC might be different.
    Last edited by nando; 10-02-2020, 10:11 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    sure enough:
    Click image for larger version

Name:	s-l1600.jpg
Views:	4985
Size:	65.1 KB
ID:	9953578

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    It sure looks to me like that part is dual purpose - the holes are probably milled on one side or the other depending on the application. RHD perhaps?

    Leave a comment:


  • moatilliatta
    replied
    Anyone check other US electric parts car diagrams for a MC with opposite facing ports?
    Last edited by moatilliatta; 10-01-2020, 10:25 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • hubcapboy
    replied
    I’m definitely looking into tapping it on the other side. I don’t have any experience with this kind of machine work, but I expect it would require disassembling the cylinder, facing the casting, drilling and tapping the threads, and cutting the seat for the flare... and then probably re-boring the cylinder to clean up the mess?

    Its harder than drilling and tapping for a bolt, certainly.
    LukeJ might be the guy to answer that.

    Leave a comment:


  • hoveringuy
    replied
    How difficult would it be just to tap the correct port size on the blank side and plug the other one?

    Leave a comment:


  • Bored
    replied
    Originally posted by hubcapboy
    Click image for larger version

Name:	7482ACAF-8BD8-4B05-B136-7C909D752DDF.jpeg
Views:	8821
Size:	77.5 KB
ID:	9953480^and add to the improbability of this whole situation that if you can find a right hand drive booster, it’s mounted in this orientation from the factory and has the brake lines tapped on the other side:
    Just put an order down on one out of Ireland, RHD model. Once it gets in I can shoot you any dimensions/pictures you'd be interested in.

    Leave a comment:

Working...