Ground Control

[Jean]

Sleeves aren't different, but if you order camber plates you do want to specificy what inserts you'll run so they can ship you correct spacers (or whatever they are called) that go over the threaded end of the front inserts.

[D-rock]

500front/650rear with no rear bar, worked great in autocross. sold it to to switch to higher rates with the engine swap and wider/stickier tires.
I will probably end up with rates similar to what z31maniac posted above.

Why would you need a higher spring rate cause of sticky tires? Also does the rear bar do much at all ?

[khnordeen]

Sleeves aren't different, but if you order camber plates you do want to specificy what inserts you'll run so they can ship you correct spacers (or whatever they are called) that go over the threaded end of the front inserts.

Hi Jean,

Thanks a lot for the quick reply.

I was getting nervous for a minute, but now my mind is at ease. Thanks again! :D

-Kyle

[Jean]

Why would you need a higher spring rate cause of sticky tires? Also does the rear bar do much at all ?

Every car is different, but with the e30 and it's "old" rear suspension adding a rear sway bar only makes it "worse" by making it less "independent". That is why many choose not to run a rear sway. (To compare, my one of previous autocross cars was a FWD GTI and it had a 28mm rear sway to help the car rotate more, but these two cars are totally different).

You can tune the suspension with springs/shocks/alignment/tires or less spring/shocks/tires/alignment and more sway and vice versa.

Drive both and figure what you like. Keep everything the same and switch from let's say 140 trearwear tire to 30-40 and your suspension will work more, car will lean more.

http://books.google.com/books?id=BJUVdn5SMBgC&pg=PA28&lpg=PA28&dq=sticky+tires+stiffer+springs%3F&source=bl&ots=rOawd_RHxv&sig=M0vCkq5p95MBEltjM1llNo02uJU&hl=en&ei=vbhXS7qUEYrWsgPb9InGBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CA8Q6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=sticky%20tires%20stiffer%20springs%3F&f=false

[D-rock]

Every car is different, but with the e30 and it's "old" rear suspension adding a rear sway bar only makes it "worse" by making it less "independent". That is why many choose not to run a rear sway. (To compare, my one of previous autocross cars was a FWD GTI and it had a 28mm rear sway to help the car rotate more, but these two cars are totally different).

You can tune the suspension with springs/shocks/alignment/tires or less spring/shocks/tires/alignment and more sway and vice versa.

Drive both and figure what you like. Keep everything the same and switch from let's say 140 trearwear tire to 30-40 and your suspension will work more, car will lean more.


http://books.google.com/books?id=BJU...ngs%3F&f=false

WOW nice link thanks will have to read that up!
So you only have a front sway bar? How about struts do they do anything?

[Jean]

Yes, in an E30 I run only with the front sway. Shocks make a huge difference, not only in handling but also in comfort.

[D-rock]

How about strut braces in the front and rear?

[Jean]

Others with more experience with those will chime in, I've only ran a sparco front upper bar for a few months before I sold it. I haven't tried a rear bar yet. It probably won't make anything worse, it doesn't make a huge difference like sway bars or anything else though.

[Holland]

Ok, just to jump in I have one really dumb noob question that I'm a bit embarrassed to ask. Ground controls are strictly coilover, or do they have the seperate shock and spring? IIRC for rear coilovers you need a rear strut brace?

[Jean]

Ground Control makes a line of different products. You can purchase a GC "kit" with your choice of front and rear springs (height / stiffness) with sleeves. Front or Rear strut brace is in no way needed.

[Holland]

Awesome. I felt stupid for asking but I never hear anyone specify.

[z31maniac]

Jean, I think Holland was talking about a "true coilover" rear. In which the spring is no longer located on the trailing arm, but over the shock itself.

Because of the difference in motion ratio, the needed spring rate will change, and serious reinforcement of the RSM area is recommended.

You'll also lose of wheel/tire clearance with a true coilover setup in the rear.

[nando]

I always wonder about true coilovers in the rear. Trent did it a long time ago, without anything fancy. It may have been because his was a light '84 shell, but he didn't have any problems and he actually tried to make it break. i'd even think with some reinforcing plates it would be fine, unless your car is a rusty NE pos.

I also don't think you lose much or any clearance. you will hit the insides of the rear tire wells before you hit the rear shocks.

[Wh33lhop]

Holy crap, some of you guys are running ridiculous rates. How many of you with 550lbs+ front springs are DDing these cars?

When I get springs I'll probably be in the 350-500 range in the front, but I always considered that to be on the stiff end for a DD.

[nando]

i do

you can get away with stiffer rates if you have matching, quality dampers. where the ride sucks is when the dampers can't properly control the spring. I would think 300/500 would be too soft, the ride quality may actually be worse, depending on ride height and suspension travel.