Comprehensive guide to extreme lowering?

[Tom.]

So a set of let's say IE springs won't work with an e90 top hat? Because I swear I just saw a guy who was running that exact setup.

If you cut the top of the strut tube off, the stock spring perch goes too.

Yes, IE3 springs WILL work with e90 drop hats BUT you will need to keep the stock spring perch in order to use them. Maybe it's possible to weld the stock one back on, but that seriously seems pointless.

I would do more reading if I were you.

There are basically two kinds of springs.. lowering springs made for the stock perch, and coil springs made for sectioned housings. e90 drop hats work on the stock DIAMETER springs, they do not work on smaller diameter coil springs.

IE3 springs are the same diameter as stock springs, just shorter.

[Liquidity]

Ok I see, I have maybe 40mm clearance between the perch and top of my tire. I see why it wouldn't make sense to only section out 40mm and run stock diameter coils. I just had no intention to put such a race-inspired suspension on a boulevard cruiser.

[Mr. Tasty]

Ok I see, I have maybe 40mm clearance between the perch and top of my tire. I see why it wouldn't make sense to only section out 40mm and run stock diameter coils. I just had no intention to put such a race-inspired suspension on a boulevard cruiser.

/facepalm. The point of having stiffer "race-inspired" suspension is to prevent you from scraping or hitting things on the under-carriage.

[Mr. Tasty]

If you section the tube (removing the stock spring perch), and weld on an after market spring perch, you'll have to use smaller diameter coil springs which won't work with e90 drop hats.
Which (I think) is all Cody is getting at.

yes.

[SkiFree]

Best mod

I just snorted pretty loud and startled my 5 month old. Thanks Lorin.

[delamaize]

I was going to put in my 2 cents, but OP seems like a jerk.

[mulletman]

Buy a different car.

[Liquidity]

/facepalm. The point of having stiffer "race-inspired" suspension is to prevent you from scraping or hitting things on the under-carriage.

I just said I didn't want a race inspired suspension, so I don't see what your point is. It's like everything I say, you talk about the exact opposite. And call me crazy but I'm pretty sure race suspensions have nothing to do with bottoming out and all to do with making the car handle well.

[Mr. Tasty]

I just said I didn't want a race inspired suspension, so I don't see what your point is. It's like everything I say, you talk about the exact opposite. And call me crazy but I'm pretty sure race suspensions have nothing to do with bottoming out and all to do with making the car handle well.

I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.

[Mr. Tasty]

honestly, I think he is a troll. I hope so.

[wakdog]

so basically you want to rail your car and then keep the suspension soft so it bangs into the road over every bump. Ok.

[Dirty325ix]

If you want a sloppy ineffective low suspension then just cut your springs in half

[brahbarian]

Holy....
Also invest in a heavy duty skid plate.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

[Andy.B]

So far after a couple weeks of looking through this forum I've gathered you want for the front:
e90 top hats
ix front shocks
strut tubes shortened 85mm
short stabilizer links

And for the rear:
3rd gen camaro rear shocks
offset subframe bushings
ovaled out trailing arm mounting points

Apart from my choice brand of springs and dampers, is there anything I'm missing?

I will try to be helpful. I am by no means an expert, but you seem to have some misconceptions on what your options are, and what parts to match together. Here are the cliff-notes on what your options are, and what you might want to consider doing to get low, without making any extreme compromises with your suspension:

Stock diameter springs, stock length shocks-
Stock diameter springs offer a lower, stiffer ride that functions with stock length shocks and strut housings/inserts. Take a look through the suspension pictures thread and see if the ie3 or h&r race setup looks low enough for you. If it does, get some springs and bilsteins/koni's, and an skid plate to protect your oil pan.

It sounds like you want it to be slammed though, so what you probably want is coilovers...

Coilover Conversions:
These sleeves fit over the strut housings and use a smaller diameter spring, negating the use of the e90 top hats or lower spring perches. If you wanted a lowered, but not slammed look, you could get away with stock height strut housings and inserts, but since you seem to want to be slammed, you should plan on sectioning the strut housings and running shorter inserts. There are many options for front struts, including ix, mr2, and g90 inserts. A sectioned housing and shorter inserts allows you to maintain suspension travel with a lowered car so you aren't riding on the bump stops. Some companies sell pre shortened housings, some require you to do it yourself.

Frankly, since you seem to be unsure of what you need, I highly recommend just calling Ground Control with your credit card in hand. They will get you set up with a safe reliable suspension. Also, buy a skid plate.

A cost savings do it yourself option would be to match the following parts:

Budget/DIY build:
-German Engineering or Ireland Engineering coilover sleeves and springs
-KYB AGX strut inserts from the rear of a second gen Toyota mr2 (need to be modified to fit the stock strut bearing)
-KYB AGX shocks from the rear of a 90's Camaro (need bushings replaced to fit stock hardware)
-Weld on m3 drop links
-Adjustable m3 sway bar links
-Shortened strut housings

I was able to put this setup together for under 1k. I had the strut inserts modified by a local machine shop and the strut housings modified by a local welding/fab shop. I just don't trust my welding for major structural components.

Either way, buy a skid plate. The oil pan is low and unprotected on these cars. It is well worth the investment just for the protection they offer, not to mention the chassis bracing they provide to improve stiffness.

NONE of this should be considered unless your bushings, ball joints, tie rods, brakes, and drivetrain are 100%. None of this accounts for correcting alignment angles, which will need attention as well. A car that drives crappy on a stock suspension will still drive crappy with a slammed suspension, and honestly be less valuable in most peoples eyes. I would buy a stock e30 that needs to be caught up on maintenance. I wouldn't buy a slammed/modified e30 that has been otherwise neglected. Camber plates up front and a weld in camber/toe kit in the rear will allow you to get proper alignment angles and keep you from wearing through tires ever 2k miles. There are ways to correct bump steer by converting to an e36 rack and carefully shimming it between the brackets. Without a reasonable amount of time, money, and effort, expect the car to drive like utter crap.

Where in WNY are you? I grew up in Jamestown, currently live outside of Buffalo, and have family in Rochester and Avon. If you ever want to meet up and talk e30's, or even just need a hand, get in touch.

[brahbarian]

100% on Andy's post. That is the route I went. I spent about $300 my my gc set up. I pieced everything together from different users on this forum. Took me 2 months but I did it!
I decided not to section my struts and just run bilstein sports all around.
I would probably go with mr2 shocks if I where to section. But you either need to buy new bearings to get it to fit or machine it to fit stock e30 strut bearing.
Tried and true set up would be h&r race/sport Springs with bilstein sports and optional e90 hats if you want simplicity. No cutting/welding.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk