Keep the e30. It will last you longer than the audi.
need an honest opinion
Collapse
X
-
I was thinking in terms of doing the body work/replacing the parts yourself. I've seen a couple of threads where someone on here had their car wrecked and then after buying it back salvaged from the other driver's insurance company, they were able to replace the damaged parts with the leftover money and put the car back on the road.A body shop can get to a $1500 estimate in no time.
Maybe so.. and YMMV but I am basing this on the comparison between two of my vehicles that are similar. I have a 92 and a 99. Both carry only liability coverage but the 92 is about $100 cheaper to insure.I doubt a b5 would be any more expensive to insure then an e30, unless you have comprehensive/collision
But even if we agree to disagree I still wouldn't do the trade.Comment
-
Very true, but can't you do this to an Audi? They are both unibody cars, removable fenders, doors, bumpers, etc... I guess I haven't seen many b5's in a junkyard, but I can't say I've seen many e30's with good panels in junkyards, especially that don't need at least paint.I was thinking in terms of doing the body work/replacing the parts yourself. I've seen a couple of threads where someone on here had their car wrecked and then after buying it back salvaged from the other driver's insurance company, they were able to replace the damaged parts with the leftover money and put the car back on the road.
Interesting. I'm not sure where insurance companies come up with prices. Here are my insurance premiums for 6 months:
97 Explorer XLT V8 - $273
85 325e - $268
87 325is - $196
As you can see, that makes no sense. All have the same minimum coverage on all of them. For shits and giggles, I got a quote on a $25k 94 Viper RT/10 with 30k miles. It was $250.
Anyway, I don't want to derail this thread any further. Keep the e30, drive it into the ground, while saving up to buy a better one. Oh, and let me know if you need parts, I have a garage full of stuff I want to get rid of. I'm not sure where in Ephrata you are, but we can't be more then 5-10 minutes apart.Comment
-
Not true. Throwout bearings can be heard alot of the time while not being used. Slight pedal pressure will shut them up. Just the bearing going bad. Input shaft bearings will typically make noise under load in all gears and sometime without any load if bad enough.Comment
-
Turbo E30
Roadkill 80lb 93 octane OBDI tune
BavSol Cylinder Head
Stock S50 in. cam Schrick ex. cam
Otis' tubular T4 manifold
Oringed 87mm S52, Eagle rods and 8.5:1 CP pistons.
GT4094r w/Batmowheel Impeller
614whp@17.5psi, 100 Oct
690whp@21psi, 100 Oct
801whp@27psi, 110 URT
Old: 1/4 mile: 10.91@144.38 (636whp)
New: ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_f7fUVqblIComment
-
Comment
-
everybody's sayin keep the bimmer...
facts,
the audi is newer
the audi is nicer
the audi is wirth more
the bmw is old
the bmw has rust
the bmw hella old..
if you have the opp to trade for nothing, do it... its full of win... Especially if you want a better bimmer..
buuuuuuut, if you want a dependable car and cant afford to shell out a few bucks to fix the audi..... keep the 318.
it all depends on what you wanna do. but by any means, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DAILY THE AUDIComment
-
What a fucking idiot. Why the hell should he not daily the Audi? Can you give us a few reasons why the Audi (once some work is done to it) wouldn't make a fine DD? I love the first part of your idiot post, "the BMW is old and the Audi is new; therefore the Audi is so much better dawg." Here's a fact, a 200k mile B5 A4 2.8 FrontTrak that has body damage and that needs work will probably fetch just as much as the 200k mile M10 318i with minor rust/paint issues. I know you have heavily researched the B5 and E30 markets before stating your "facts" so you would know how heavily B5's have depreciated, you would know that the 2.8 FrontTrak is arguably the least desirable US B5 variant, and obviously you know how many things on those cars go bad at/near the 200k mile point.everybody's sayin keep the bimmer...
facts,
the audi is newer
the audi is nicer
the audi is wirth more
the bmw is old
the bmw has rust
the bmw hella old..
if you have the opp to trade for nothing, do it... its full of win... Especially if you want a better bimmer..
buuuuuuut, if you want a dependable car and cant afford to shell out a few bucks to fix the audi..... keep the 318.
it all depends on what you wanna do. but by any means, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DAILY THE AUDI
We'll come to you when we need info on goats; until then leave the automotive stuff to anyone else.- Trey
E90 325i/6 (ZSP, ZPP, ZCW)
E36 325i sedan
E30 325i sedan
Volvo 945TComment
-

SC*AR
Originally posted by JamesE30And with a car looking like yours I imagine the balance shall tip in the favor of insult, like a big fat fucking retarded fucking black girl on a see-saw, opposite... a dwarf.Comment
-
^dont laugh at him... he's already pissed that somebody pissed in his malt'o'meal
dude, are you speaking of the "proper market" or the realistic market that car will be listed in... nobody in the market thats lookin for a decent audi is gonna buy that car...
hell, top reason these cars sell is that the buyer doesnt know shit about em...
take the irregular shaped penis out your ass and be realistic here....
and you know nobody on a 318 budget can afford to DD the audi let alone fix it...Comment
-
Goat guy,^dont laugh at him... he's already pissed that somebody pissed in his malt'o'meal
dude, are you speaking of the "proper market" or the realistic market that car will be listed in... nobody in the market thats lookin for a decent audi is gonna buy that car...
hell, top reason these cars sell is that the buyer doesnt know shit about em...
take the irregular shaped penis out your ass and be realistic here....
and you know nobody on a 318 budget can afford to DD the audi let alone fix it...
"Proper market" or "realistic market" aside, a 200k mile B5 A4 2.8 FT that has body damage and needs work (to what extent is unknown) won't be fetching more than $3-3.5k. Now that amount is the PMV (proper market value,) to compute that amount to RMV (realistic market value) refer to the below equation...
PMV + 35.07
1.271050655
The remaining amount is the RMV and is the amount that the vehicle will sell for in a realistic market, not a fake market or anything else.
I disgress, if you say the OP is on a "318 budget" then why should he sell his car for something more expensive that needs more work than his? If he really wants a B5, would you not agree there are better examples? Is this really some "killur deel"? Methinks not. Have a cheery day.
Best regards,- Trey
E90 325i/6 (ZSP, ZPP, ZCW)
E36 325i sedan
E30 325i sedan
Volvo 945TComment
-
fuck dude, didnt have to bust out the equations on my ass.....Goat guy,
"Proper market" or "realistic market" aside, a 200k mile B5 A4 2.8 FT that has body damage and needs work (to what extent is unknown) won't be fetching more than $3-3.5k. Now that amount is the PMV (proper market value,) to compute that amount to RMV (realistic market value) refer to the below equation...
PMV + 35.07
1.271050655
The remaining amount is the RMV and is the amount that the vehicle will sell for in a realistic market, not a fake market or anything else.
I disgress, if you say the OP is on a "318 budget" then why should he sell his car for something more expensive that needs more work than his? If he really wants a B5, would you not agree there are better examples? Is this really some "killur deel"? Methinks not. Have a cheery day.
Best regards,
so you win... gosh I get it...:(
but if he trades his bimmer for it and sells it he may get enough to buy a better bimmer....
Comment
-
The tranny issue sounds like a release bearing to me. The tranny in my 2002tii did that, and eventually the noise would remain even with the pedal down(tranny staying engaged even with the clutch in).If at first you don't succeed, find a bigger hammer.Comment

Comment