Allow myself to introduce....... myself

[s38e30]

The engine drops right in with a set of motor mounts I found in Germany (not the set from 300mm.de. The hood cleared the intakes and the pan cleared the subframe, no problem. I just wanted to lower the engine a bit and give room around the tunnel for clearance.

The 20mm spacers did change the geometry of the front. The camber plates turned into caster plates for the correct placement of the wheel. Even with the Late M3 control arms and the treehouse CABs, the wheel sat a little further back.

The Z3 steering rack fit right in without the modified linkage. Bonus except that I purchased the stock US linkage thinking I would need it. The standard European linkage just fit right in place.

The ECU is using the Alpha N stup with tps and Map. Slight torque loss but the 3.8 cams and gears shifted the curve down.

Price of the motors (I bought 3 at one time) was roughly 2500 euros total (~$3200) for all three including factory ECU and all acc. expect A/C. Like I said, this swap would not be feasible in the states because of the cost of one motor. I have had 2 E34 M5s in the States and parted them out. Each motor sold for ~$5000 complete.

I am still building this beast. The setup is not complete and she is not running yet.

[s38e30]

Sold one of the motors for 1200 euros to a friend in Germany when I first bought them and I kept the other 2. All three had under 100k kilometers and the cars were complete before we completely stripped them. I still have another set of seats (grey manual leather) and brakes from the M5s. I paid for one motor what most pay for an M30 in decent condition. That's why I decided to go the S38 route instead of the M50 or S50. Shear cost and the affordable wow factor!!!!!!

[s38e30]

the best way IMO is to lower the subframe .. complete like i did,, but i repeat this is my opinion

20 mm alu adapter

Alpina - which drive shaft did you use and is your motor set at position 2 or 3?

Still working out some of the details.

At this point, I am not overly worried about the loss of torque. I will have to find a dyno to dial it in correctly and if I find I loss a lot of torque, I will switch over to the carbon airbox.

[red325]

Welcome, beautiful engine swap

[Alpina]

Alpina - which drive shaft did you use and is your motor set at position 2 or 3?

Still working out some of the details.

At this point, I am not overly worried about the loss of torque. I will have to find a dyno to dial it in correctly and if I find I loss a lot of torque, I will switch over to the carbon airbox.

here is some pics..













From gearbox there is 10 cm M5 part of shaft,, then the oem E30 325 ,, welded together and balanced,,

Engine is in position 2 ,, i used www.300mm.de engine mounts,, if you can,, go to position 3
then there is a better possebileties to use a thin radiator,, AS BIG AS POSSIBLE and from a new material,, not a used one ((also custom ))

Radiator is a custom,,on my car,, insede the grill behind the kidney.. and the blower is E34 540 klima ,, 420 mm blowing reverse,,

the RADIARTOR must have a double effect,, => the water is going sideways and down,,
my radiator is not like that,, and when the Car was located @ Nürburgring and EU the Radiator-blower was to often working hard ,,I had also to use the ventilation blower ,, on hot ,, but here in Iceland ,, it is ok

I have 3.73 LSD,, and the power ??

from rolling start 40 km BRAKE even with Z3 M-roadster to 180,,

but in gear accleration ,, like in 4th i dont think the S50B32 can keep up with the high torque on the 3.8

i have had several sprints with E92 335,, from 100 - 250 .. and they dont have a brake,,
you should see their face when i let them pass ,,,,,,,,,, hihihi

[s38e30]

I am using the M5 rad in between the grill and support as well with a dual (push and pull) electric fan setup and the factory oil cooler mounted below it. (No high beam lights just ducting if side to side clearance is not enough).

I was going to use tino's mounts from 300mm.de but found another set from a small company in Germany that were made to clear the headers without modification to the mount. I did get the spacers from him though and they fit beautifully

For trans, I am using the 535 until I get back to the states and located a good E30 M3 trans for less. I have had 2 M5 transmissions break shift forks, so I do not want to waste the time and money using one. E30 Ms are expensive if you can find one in a yard here. States side, they are about $500 usd ---- much more reasonable.

I have the 3.64 lsd that came factory in the car.

[s38e30]

My 325i driveshaft fit perfectly lengthwise but the output from the trans is the larger flange. I know the 324td will fit without mod, but I am going to try changing the output flange tonight as the part numbers all seem to match up between the 325 and 535. Then no welding, no balancing and replacements would be easy, even in the States.

[Asbradley21]

That's just amazing.

I now demand you boost it. Just because I know you can.

[s38e30]

Hopefully these cure the problems with the e36 look...........

[e30_kid]

^^that right there is full of win!!!

[Gnarles]

do you have positive camber in the front?

[woodisgood]

jeebus christ

"wait a minute I don't even believe in jeebus"

[s38e30]

do you have positive camber in the front?

Have not adjusted anything but castor. Still a rolling project. When get the ride height set I'll start playing with camber for the front and rear.

[UNHCLL]

do you have positive camber in the front?

Very likely as the post with photos earlier in this thread hint at e36 front struts, which will force one to fight both the caster/camber issue in the e30.

-Chris

[s38e30]

Description covered that area. E36 M contours and E46 brakes also hint at that too.

I also set the suspension lower when I originally set the camber, then had to raise it up to move it from the garage where I was working on it to my house.