Need the help of R3V - Amputee Driving a Clutch

[Xaq]

In my state you need a special notation on your license for hand controls (brake, throttle, etc.) I don't know about pedal positions though.

[5Toes]

I now am concerned with laws on pedal repositioning

[DaveSmed]

Bob is a little confused in his old age. A larger master cylinder will require more force at the pedal/lever. The opposite is also true. I still say use a remote vacuum booster on the clutch. You can mount it anywhere.

Wouldn't a helper spring do the trick? No worries of hanging up like brakes, since the pressure plate has spring tension forcing it back.

[Bene]

maybe you could rig an ATV throttle onto the shift lever or steering wheel so you can keep your right foot on the brake.

[LJ851]

Hahahaha well talked to my friend's Dad last night, he has been working on cars his entire life. Hes like 60.

So Bob gave me the idea of using a different master cylinder... a bigger one. This would make the thing require alot less force. Also he said the motorcycle master cylinder idea is great. And air is iffy... hahaha same as here.

Hydro seems like most logical idea. Electronics would be FAR easier, but also a little more complicated.

And bell crank? What?

Bob is a little confused in his old age. A larger master cylinder will require more force at the pedal/lever. The opposite is also true. I still say use a remote vacuum booster on the clutch. You can mount it anywhere.

[5Toes]

So does anyone know of any laws deeming the modifying of the pedals illegal?

Because I truly think my modify the pedals idea is the way to go on this..

Only problem is that I may have trouble mounting up the gas pedal in the other side...

But hey there are only a million other gas pedals out there that might work!

[5Toes]

Bell crank. Or a plain lever if you need to adjust mechanical advantage one way or another.

Straight bar, pillowball bearing mount in the center. Holes drilled equal distances apart from the center pivot. One hole gets pulled by the cable, the other pushes the MC pushrod. 1:1 ratio. Install helper spring between arm and fixed MC mount.

OR

If you end up needing to modify the ratios, you can simplify the installation by mounting the bearing on the bottom of the rod, and having the cable pull the arm in the same direction of the MC pushrod.

Just looked up bell crank, that could work.

You guys are all talking above my head almost.

[5Toes]

I kind of want to do it for myself though, you know?

[Vtec?lol]

but pulling a cable can rotate an arm connected to the throw out bearing... dude seriously, give me $400 and i'll fab it up for you and patent it...

[DaveSmed]

Dave... one problem. Pulling on a cable can not PUSH IN a master cylinder.

Brian... nice picture skills. But I would have to drive without power steering?

Bell crank. Or a plain lever if you need to adjust mechanical advantage one way or another.

Straight bar, pillowball bearing mount in the center. Holes drilled equal distances apart from the center pivot. One hole gets pulled by the cable, the other pushes the MC pushrod. 1:1 ratio. Install helper spring between arm and fixed MC mount.

OR

If you end up needing to modify the ratios, you can simplify the installation by mounting the bearing on the bottom of the rod, and having the cable pull the arm in the same direction of the MC pushrod.

[Sagaris]

that or run without A/C and mount a dedicated hydraulic pump in the location of the A/C compressor, It would be tough to get any more accessories in the engine bay unless they were on the passenger side above the A/C compressor.

[5Toes]

Dave... one problem. Pulling on a cable can not PUSH IN a master cylinder.

Brian... nice picture skills. But I would have to drive without power steering?

[DaveSmed]

Been thinking about it a bit more.

Here's the problem.

For the lever on the shifter, you get mechanical advantage at the cost of total movement of the cable. Lets undo that at the other end of the cable by pulling on a lever that would replicate the force and movement of the handle.

So were 1:1 ratio now. That movement is roughly the stroke of the clutch master cylinder. BUT! actuating that master in stock form is a lever actuated by leg. That is a lot of force alone to push a stock clutch pedal by hand (esp with the force spread across a lever surface area instead of a pedal face. ow.) And that alone wouldn't be any fun to drive daily, but remember we eliminated the leverage of the pedal. That is simply too much force to reasonably actuate by hand in a driving situation.

So, the movement is close enough. Messing with lever ratios or hydraulic ratios messes with the movement amount and screws that up.

Solution? You need to incorporate assist of some sort. Vacuum assist was mentioned, that would work. Me? I'm thinking a spring..... (will need an adjuster too, but thats simple)

[bernzpeed]

tried to embed video but i couldn't

so here is the link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q20HptZcDwA&feature=player_embedded#at=287

[Sagaris]

How about using the power steering pump as a hydraulic pump to operate a pneumatic piston which engages the clutch. That way you could use a small light lever (bike brake lever) mounted on the shifter which would use a brake cable to modulate the valve. That way you would be able to modulate it AND it would be really soft and easy to operate. I think it would be very a simple approach since it uses a lot of original parts save for some hydraulic hose, valves, and piston.