Need the help of R3V - Amputee Driving a Clutch

[5Toes]

Clutchless shifting is not that bad.. my friend does it all the time and I honestly cant feel a difference.

I think I will go with the rod/stick idea for now, and master clutchless shifting.

That hydrovac thing is awesome! But in reality, I dont think "that" much pressure would be needed to push on a diaphragm in one of those

[DaveSmed]

That being said though, the motorcycle MC STILL won't work as it simply will not move enough fluid. 14mm and barely any stroke.... not gonna cut it.

If you were to use something like the hydrovac, you would use a normal sized MC.



Also, properly shifting clutchless wears out less shit. "Properly" is a significant part of that though.

[DaveSmed]

Check this out (its already been mentioned in the thread btw)



To understand how that works, you need to know a bit about normal brake boosters. When you step on the pedal, your actually mechanically actuating a valve that allows the pressure differential to build across the diaphragm. Thats the dead spot you feel in the beginning of pedal travel.

The hydrovac booster pictured uses strictly hydraulic input to actuate the diaphragm differential valve and apply vacuum assist. There is no mechanical linkage connection to it. It's used in older trucks mainly (which means they are usually rather sizable) to provide power brakes while only requiring the much smaller master cylinder be near the pedal.

[camshaftgsxr]

I am familiar with that technique. Synchros do slight rev matching for you. just have to ease it into gear after the revs have.dropped enough

honestly if you only stalled only once you might want to look into giving it a shot, at least before you custom fab a bunch of super complicated stuff

[Exodus_2pt0]

thats why they have a clutch lol

I'm done with you.

[camshaftgsxr]

Yea, if you grind it hurts it.... That's why you learn....

thats why they have a clutch lol

[Exodus_2pt0]

yeah you are just grinding the dogs teeth together every time you mess up

Yea, if you grind it hurts it.... That's why you learn....

[5Toes]

I am familiar with that technique. Synchros do slight rev matching for you. just have to ease it into gear after the revs have.dropped enough

[camshaftgsxr]

yeah you are just grinding the dogs teeth together every time you mess up

[Exodus_2pt0]

synchros will never last

Tell that to my MKV Gli with 120k on the clock and original transmission, that held 400+whp until the motor let go.

It does not hurt the synchro's because the synchro's aren't needed in this situation.

The job of a synchro is to match Engine RPM to the transmission's RPM. Shifting the way I described only happens when the RPM's match, thats why it works.

Tons of people say what you just did, that the synchro's won't last. But yet I have personal experience that says they do. Along with many others that have first hand experience. I take it you don't. ;)

[camshaftgsxr]

I have been trying to figure out how you could make this work...


Then I realized, that if you can get the car rolling, then you don't need a clutch really. I drive around all the time, only using the clutch for first gear. As long as you don't try to force it, no damage is done to the transmission.

Get rolling, and when you decide to shift ease off the throttle while applying pressure to the shifter lightly. The trans will literally fall out of gear, then apply pressure to the next gear. (not too much or you will grind, too little and you will grind. Its a sweet spot)
Once the engine RPM's match the transmission, it will "fall" into the next gear.

Seriously, I do this all the time and have never had an issue. I was taught this technique by my Auto Tech teacher in high school. It doesn't allow for racing, but at least you could drive a manual.

synchros will never last

[Exodus_2pt0]

I have been trying to figure out how you could make this work...


Then I realized, that if you can get the car rolling, then you don't need a clutch really. I drive around all the time, only using the clutch for first gear. As long as you don't try to force it, no damage is done to the transmission.

Get rolling, and when you decide to shift ease off the throttle while applying pressure to the shifter lightly. The trans will literally fall out of gear, then apply pressure to the next gear. (not too much or you will grind, too little and you will grind. Its a sweet spot)
keep off the throttle and let the engine slow. Once the engine RPM's match the transmission, it will "fall" into the next gear. After a while you will learn where these sweet spots are, and it will come naturally.

Seriously, I do this all the time and have never had an issue. I was taught this technique by my Auto Tech teacher in high school. It doesn't allow for racing, but at least you could drive a manual.

[camshaftgsxr]

So a full sized master cylinder, with a cable to it operated via a lever?

How much hydraulic "boost" with a brake booster give?

ever cut your car off down hill and try to lock up the brakes after the vacuum has been used up?

[5Toes]

So a full sized master cylinder, with a cable to it operated via a lever?

How much hydraulic "boost" with a brake booster give?

[camshaftgsxr]

What about a motorcyle m/c and a small remote booster (like a small mini cooper brake booster?)

still not going to move the fluid you need, you could do a full size master and a booster, operated by cable to keep it from cluttering the cabin