The "Need to fix" list = too many to put in one forum.

[Bimmerfanatik]

HELL YES

Do it. You WILL not regret it!

Especially if you like the 3.0i shifter! :P

Most likely going for the plain ol IE urethane TA bushings - there really isn't that much camber in my car, and this is strictly a street car - I can't imagine needing the adjustability that comes with the extra cost.

So it looks like the TA bushings are $52, the rear subframe bushings are $90, and then I found some teflon coated SS lines on ebay for $80. That's the stuff I want to do this time around, with the subframe out. I can do the rear wheel bearings, diff mount, and flex disc down the line.

Make sense? Anyone disagree with the above shopping list? Something else I should do while I'm in there?

[Dave]

do new rubber brake lines - unless you want to remove that subframe in a year or two to replace teh SS ones

[Sean]

do new rubber brake lines - unless you want to remove that subframe in a year or two to replace teh SS ones

Not if he gets SS lines that are coated OUTSIDE the SS. That's what I did when I removed my subframe again. I pulled off my IE lines and put on the lines I got from BavAuto that had an external coating to pretect against the abrasions.

;)

[Bimmerfanatik]

Not if he gets SS lines that are coated OUTSIDE the SS. That's what I did when I removed my subframe again. I pulled off my IE lines and put on the lines I got from BavAuto that had an external coating to pretect against the abrasions.

;)

That's what I was planning on doing, and that's why I sold my IE lines. I can't imagine why a car driven for 5-6 months a year is going to need new brake lines every two years!

[Digitalwave]

Don't bother with adjustable TA bushings, they are hard to set and to keep in place.

[Bimmerfanatik]

Don't bother with adjustable TA bushings, they are hard to set and to keep in place.

Nice - standard urethane TA bushings it is.

Waiting to hear back from Dan at Flying Brick to get a parts availability and total for the subframe bushings and TA bushings, then making my decision on brake lines. The rest of the parts can be done with the subframe back on the car, unless I'm missing something.

[Digitalwave]

It's smart to do the lines now, its easy with the subframe out! Just make sure to buy some line wrenches.

[Bimmerfanatik]

It's smart to do the lines now, its easy with the subframe out! Just make sure to buy some line wrenches.

That's what I figured - do them while it's out. What size flare wrenches do I need...11 and 14?

[Digitalwave]

I forget, but that sounds about right. I think I bought a kit at Napa with 11-15 for like $12.

[Bimmerfanatik]

I forget, but that sounds about right. I think I bought a kit at Napa with 11-15 for like $12.

Thanks TJ - off I go.

I'll have the parts car to practice on, and if it goes wrong, at least I can mess with it outside the car. That way I'll be ready when I swap the new subframe onto the vert!

[Bimmerfanatik]

Dropped the subframe on one of my parts car - it's got some surface rust, so I'll be getting it sanded and primed so I can paint it before reassembling.

Turns out this car had the subframe bushings replaced - I had forgotten the PO telling me that. But, I have to take them out to get it blasted and primed, and I want to go urethane anyways.

Because the subframe bushings were replaced recently, the rear end came down fairly easily. The diff was already out, so I just went to work on the mount bolts and allen bolts on the plates - one stripped, but after some drilling, fighting, and cussing, it finally loosened. Bolts came out through the top no problem, and after some wiggling, the subframe dropped. Just cut the inner brake lines to make things easier - though they look like they might have been replaced when the subframe bushings were done ;) No matter - better safe than sorry. Driver's side came apart no problem, but the passenger side parking brake cable is stuck in the trailing arm. Yanked on it, hit it, nothing is working. I'll have to cut the cable and figure it out with the subframe out from under the car. Right now, that's all that's holding it in. I'll finish stripping the assembly to just the TA's and subframe, get them sanded and primed, paint them, and then reassemble using the new parts.

Curious to see how well the subframe in the cabby comes out - I highly doubt it'll be this easy, and I know I'll be fighting with the inner bushings on the subframe with that. Fun fun...

[Bimmerfanatik]

Decided to sand the parts myself in the interest of cost effectiveness and convenience - so far so good, pictures later. Because of this, I'm tempted to stay with the basically brand new stock subframe bushings. I've seen some "reinforcements" made of urethane sold on ebay - seem to make sense, anyone else had any luck with them?

I took Dave's advice and tried Heeter's $12 bernz-o-matic solution for the TA bushings - worked like a charm :) It was quite fun, actually. By the fourth one I had it down to a science. Took about a half hour for all four - not bad at all.

Tomorrow and the next few days is sanding the TA's and subframe, priming and painting, and then reassembly. Come Wed I'll pull the vert in and pull the subframe out, swap the diff onto this setup, and put it back on. At least, that's what I'm hoping for :)

Only thing left really is to pick SS lines. Don't want to risk uncoated ones, but don't want to buy sub-par coated ones. UUC is one of the better choices so far...TMS lines are less than 2 minutes from me, but I don't think they're coated. I could always make a coating, right?