Is a S52 swap with 190K miles on the engine worth it?!

[Vehicle Virals]

I have a buddy trying to sell me a complete S52 swap for my e30 for $3500. Essentially he is including everything I need, engine, trans, and miscellaneous parts. Here's the thing, the engine itself has 190K miles. He says the engine runs great and advises to do things like the head gasket and general maintenance and I'll be good. Sounds like a good deal, but 190K miles scares the hell out of me. since my dad has always told me growing up to stay away from high mileage cars lol. Is there anything I should worry about? With a S52 swapped e30 of course I'd like to go for spirited drives and take it to the track from time to time. Any and all thoughts are appreciated.

[varg]

I've never owned an S52 and don't know the prices for them but I wouldn't track one that has 190,000mi on it. Needs a rebuild before that imo. It's probably just fine to street drive if it was maintained well, but track use finds the weak point fast, whether it's the old rings or the bearing clearances or who knows. At the very least, inspect the bores and pistons and do a leakdown test before you buy it.

[Staszek]

I wouldnt be scared of 190k but I would rebuild it before I put it in. Rebuilding it and putting it in would be better then buying one with lower mileage and doing nothing to it.

That being said I dont know about the prices, I mean if it includes absolutely everything including all accessories, wiring ETC its not that bad. I have been seeing just the engine go for around $2500-$3000, although the trans is not worth an extra $1000.

I would say if you can get it all for $3k rebuild it its not a bad deal.

Or you could buy a whole salvaged car like this and part out and probably get close to a free engine.

https://www.copart.com/lot/57636399

[Vehicle Virals]

Or you could buy a whole salvaged car like this and part out and probably get close to a free engine.
https://www.copart.com/lot/57636399

Well funny thing is that I bought a clean title e46 M3 that had smg issues so I can swap in a S54 into the e30, but ultimately decided to just restore the M3 instead since the car was in very good shape. So I rather not go the route of buying another car to part out (I simply don't have the time).

I'll see what he says about selling me everything for 3K and ask him about doing the leak down test.

By the way, the guy selling me this setup is the lead tech at a European performance shop locally to me. The shop will also be installing everything onto my e30 since I have a partnership with them. Which is why I trust his judgement, but I've been having a hard time getting passed the 190K miles. I somewhat feel better about it now.

Thanks for the insight.

[Vehicle Virals]

I've never owned an S52 and don't know the prices for them but I wouldn't track one that has 190,000mi on it. Needs a rebuild before that imo. It's probably just fine to street drive if it was maintained well, but track use finds the weak point fast, whether it's the old rings or the bearing clearances or who knows. At the very least, inspect the bores and pistons and do a leakdown test before you buy it.

I'll see about the leakdown test, thanks.

[KIRIEIW]

Assuming you plan to OBD1 swap it, be prepared to buy quite a few more things to fit that S52 into your car. OBD2 is possible but it'll require more work.. Wiring to get it up and going. I wouldn't be scared at 190k, but at a bare minimum I would replace the chains, chain guides, and safety wire the oil pump. Plus obviously regasket the entire engine.

Just to give you an idea, I'm guessing that engine/ trans set up will cost you an additional $1500 in parts. EWS delete chip for ECU, OBD1 Engine harness, OBD1 intake manifold/ throttle body, coolant temp sensor 1 wire- 2 wire adapter, timing cover OBD1 coolant pipe, AKG engine mounts, just to name a few. I personally would wait out for a S50 unless you could find a complete S52 cheap enough, but then again that's my bias opinion.

[ryan.of.peachey]

Save your money and look for an s54.

[Curt Hayes]

Well funny thing is that I bought a clean title e46 M3 that had smg issues so I can swap in a S54 into the e30, but ultimately decided to just restore the M3 instead since the car was in very good shape. So I rather not go the route of buying another car to part out (I simply don't have the time).

I'll see what he says about selling me everything for 3K and ask him about doing the leak down test.

By the way, the guy selling me this setup is the lead tech at a European performance shop locally to me. The shop will also be installing everything onto my e30 since I have a partnership with them. Which is why I trust his judgement, but I've been having a hard time getting passed the 190K miles. I somewhat feel better about it now.

Thanks for the insight.

I swapped an s52 into my car 90,000 miles ago. It came from a car with 148,000, so I’m at about 240,000 on the engine. Still runs like a top, pulls to 7k no issues. If you track the car the limitation won’t be the engine, it’ll be the brakes if they’re stock. Took mine on the track right after I had it in and overheated the brakes in no time. Something about repeatedly dropping from 125+ to 40 did the trick.

[Staszek]

Save your money and look for an s54.

Thats a lot of saving lol!! The power train which is more expensive is just part of of it. The dirtiest swap you can do with an S54 is still going to cost twice the S52. If you do it right it will cost a lot more.

[Vehicle Virals]

Thats a lot of saving lol!! The power train which is more expensive is just part of of it. The dirtiest swap you can do with an S54 is still going to cost twice the S52. If you do it right it will cost a lot more.

Was just about to answer this. Keep in mind that even with the free labor I get, it'll still cost me much more to do the proper "clean" S54 swap. Definitely not saving money going that route. The guy selling me everything I'll need to swap in the S52 is telling I'll be paying close to $5K total (Of course this includes the $3.5K for what he is selling me). For an S54 I'll be at around to $10K all in if I get a good price on the powertrain (Not including labor since I don't have to pay that).

[varg]

How does the weight of an S54 compare to an S52? From what I've seen the S54 is porky, never have seen any decent S52 weight figures.

Kinda silly to tell a guy who is looking at an S52 swap to just get an S54, the cost difference is huge.

[Staszek]

How does the weight of an S54 compare to an S52? From what I've seen the S54 is porky, never have seen any decent S52 weight figures.

Kinda silly to tell a guy who is looking at an S52 swap to just get an S54, the cost difference is huge.

Not sure what the S52 weighs, the S54 is about a 100 more then the M20. My car came in at 2900 and change total with full tank of gas, extra sound deadening, sub (and an amp mount) and bigger than stock wheels, larger battery and a heavy E36 M3 exhaust. I purposely used heavier items in the rear to balance out the S54 weight. My distribution is actually 50% now.

[bradmer]

Do it now! Well if the engine checks out refresh it and keep it stock. Also pickup the radiator and pusher fan, wire harness and ecu, complete exhaust setup, intake, fuel pressure regulator. If you keep your g260 you can use the same driveshaft, iirc.

I have brembo solid brake rotors purchased from napa with super squeaky hawk h10 brake pads and motul brake fluid. Works great at the track, I'm sure you can find a less squeaky pad that works well for street use.

[James Crivellone]

Not sure why everyone is against tracking it, it's not uncommon to see a SpecE46 with a 200k+ mile M54 in it.. Hell, I raced an M50 NV for over 6000 miles (all track time) and it had over 240k+ miles on it.

Toss a baffle in the pan, weld the oil pump nut, and run it. If you a really concerned check the rod bearings when you have the pan off to weld the nut and replace if needed, but assuming compression is good drive the snot out of it.

[Vehicle Virals]

Not sure why everyone is against tracking it, it's not uncommon to see a SpecE46 with a 200k+ mile M54 in it.. Hell, I raced an M50 NV for over 6000 miles (all track time) and it had over 240k+ miles on it.

Toss a baffle in the pan, weld the oil pump nut, and run it. If you a really concerned check the rod bearings when you have the pan off to weld the nut and replace if needed, but assuming compression is good drive the snot out of it.

Words of encouragement right here, thank you.