Originally posted by BaconMafia
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Collision Damage Help + Reminder to Drive Safe.
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Originally posted by 2mAn View PostI didn’t want to kick you while you’re down, best thing to do now is to fight insurance and get good money to have the car fixed.sigpic
1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]
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It's super unlikely that there's no frame damage with the quarter panel crunched that way. Everything's repairable with enough money and determination. Even if insurance wants to total it, I'm assuming you're fixing this because you intend to keep the car so I wouldn't be way too wary of a salvaged title. You can always play the game of finding a shop that'll write a quote low enough for them not to total the car, and then pay the difference out of pocket to have it fixed properly. Good luck
Edit: haven't been here in a while--no more signatures?The first car I ever rode in was an e30
Originally posted by Cabriolet
Wish you the best and hope you don't remember anything after 10pm.
1992 Mauritiusblau Vert
2011 Alpinweiss 335is coupe
2002 540i/6 Black/Black
2003 GSX-R 750 (RIP)
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Originally posted by Vivek View PostEdit: haven't been here in a while--no more signatures?
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Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
There is no adjustment from factory unfortunately and for this reason the rear alignment spec tolerance from factory is huge. There is no telling after 30 years where the alignment is without getting it checked out. Poor alignment, poor unpredictable handling. Some are lucky, Some are not.
Originally posted by McGyver View Post
Insurance will likely give you a lowball value for the car. Try using values from cars sold on Bring-A-Trailer.
Originally posted by Vivek View PostIt's super unlikely that there's no frame damage with the quarter panel crunched that way. Everything's repairable with enough money and determination. Even if insurance wants to total it, I'm assuming you're fixing this because you intend to keep the car so I wouldn't be way too wary of a salvaged title. You can always play the game of finding a shop that'll write a quote low enough for them not to total the car, and then pay the difference out of pocket to have it fixed properly. Good luck
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This is what I've learned from over a decade of E30ing.
For proper E30 rear alignment:
Good subframe bushings
Good diff bushing
Get and alignment and see where you are with the ride height you want
It would optimal if you could find a body shop to bend back into "Spec" if out of "spec"
Then disassemble and weld in eccentrics for fine tuning
Align and Rip
Now the factory rear alignment "spec" is so huge because there is no adjustment, just additional tolerance. (Rear Tow -0°04' to 0°26)
You want no toe out what so ever, this will cause the instability, aim for some toe in.
Camber is all about what you want to do with the car -.5 to -2.75.
If you buy a subframe / Axle carrier with the eccentrics ready, you may or may not get the desired alignment you're looking for.
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I know, old thread but I thought I'd post an update.
The car has been fixed since late spring and been working great since then. It got a new quarter, tail panel and all of the little pieces that got damaged. Paint doesn't quite match up but oh well, I'll just respray the whole thing later down. I moved up to 15 inch wheels with Yokohama 205/55s and the car really grips and handles great especially after putting in a e46 ZHP rack. The suspension turns out it has been in spec all this time.
I'm still pissed at myself for letting it happened but I am so happy to have it back and thankful that nobody got hurt in the wreck.
Now time to plan an itb stroker build.....
Last edited by BaconMafia; 11-24-2021, 09:29 AM.
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