E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[Holland]

This project is really something else. I don't think I've ever seen so many photos in a r3v thread, the car looks great and I love the color. Good use of 3D printing on the unavailable parts as well. Some day I want to do a nice restoration on my E30 like this. And happy belated birthday to your E30

Second this. Those photos are very helpful to me, as I have an early car and adding late car stuff.

[The_Glory]

This project is really something else. I don't think I've ever seen so many photos in a r3v thread, the car looks great and I love the color. Good use of 3D printing on the unavailable parts as well. Some day I want to do a nice restoration on my E30 like this. And happy belated birthday to your E30

And I immediately warned that there would be a LOT of photos and a detailed description, according to the ETK! )
Thanks for the congratulations! )

[The_Glory]

Second this. Those photos are very helpful to me, as I have an early car and adding late car stuff.

I'm very glad that you found it useful and interesting! So I didn't write in vain! )

[The_Glory]

Assembly_178_ETK_18_Exhaust system (preparation)

So, it's time to deal with the exhaust system. As I wrote earlier, I had to abandon the idea of installing a Chinese equal-length exhaust manifold Turbo Works made of stainless steel, for the reason that it physically did not fit the E30.
I also mentioned that I bought an original equal-length exhaust manifold Sebring, but it still needs to be brought into proper condition.
Therefore, I decided to postpone the "tuning" until better times, and for now, install my old exhaust system, without changes. Just clean and paint it. It looked like this.


I replaced the rear part almost immediately after buying the car, somewhere in 2010-2012. It was a new analogue of the muffler from the Polish manufacturer Polmostrov. What can I say about it now - great! After 12-14 years it looks quite decent, practically without corrosion.


In the front part, I then cut out the catalyst, and installed a double straight-flow stainless steel stronger in its place, also from the Polish manufacturer AWG. The stronger is also preserved in excellent condition.


Then the "masters" welded hooks directly to the muffler, instead of the factory clamps, and welded the entire line into one piece. I don't know why I agreed to it then... probably out of stupidity! )) But, we have what we have.. )
And the front part was "repaired" by the previous owners of the car... They replaced the corrugation with a regular pipe insert. Apparently after that, the flanges started to come off. They welded "crutches" to the flange. After that, the joint of the pipe insert cracked )) I've wanted to do something about it for a long time, but I still couldn't get my hands on it. My friend even gave me the front part with the corrugation in good condition. But it's still lying around with me. Now maybe I'll replace it. Or maybe I'll just replace the whole system.... we'll see...
I couldn't unscrew the lambda probe, and there was no point in doing so. I put a new one in then, I hope it still works fine...


So, for now, I'm just cleaning the surface mechanically with brushes.




Then sandblast


Much better. Found only three tiny holes in the welds. Welded them.




After that, I treated it with a rust converter, and degreased it with anti-silicone before painting.




I painted it with heat-resistant zinc paint in two layers.








Almost like new! )

Now about the mount. To the gearbox, the pipes were screwed using some homemade bracket. I found the original bracket. Moreover, they are different for the version with and without a catalyst. I had a catalyst. Therefore, I bought a bracket specifically for this option.




Of course, I sanded and galvanized. At the same time, some other details too.


I have the rear mount welded directly to the muffler. Just in case, I found and bought the original clamps for mounting the muffler. But, as it turned out, they are also different for a system with and without a catalyst.
I mistakenly bought one for a system without a catalyst.






The muffler is a little smaller, so the clamps don't fit very well.




I'm not sure if I can install a muffler on them, but just in case, I sanded them, primed them, and painted them.




And one more detail - a protective shield for the lambda probe (11 78 1 710 590).


I didn't have it at all. The new one is no longer available for order. Oddly enough, I couldn't find it in any of the flea markets, although it was installed on almost all E30, E32, E34... Where did they all go, I don't understand... If someone has an extra one, I would buy it. So, I asked a friend to measure its dimensions, and made it myself from galvanized sheet metal.
It turned out quite similar, as far as I'm concerned! ;)




I used the clamp that is used to fix the rear drain hoses of the hatch (54 12 1 874 589) - I just had extra ones left.
It fit perfectly, it fixes clearly and firmly.


So, the exhaust system and its mounts are ready for installation.
More on installing it on the car.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_179_ETK_18_Exhaust system with catalyst. Front part

For the M20B25 engine, there are two types of exhaust systems - without a catalyst and with a catalyst.
Exhaust system

They differ both in design and in mounting. Both systems consist of two parts - front and rear.
I have a system with a catalyst installed. Although, I stupidly cut out the catalyst and replaced it with stronger ones, and the entire system was combined into one whole.
So, the front part of the exhaust system with a catalyst.
Exhaust system with catalyst




Part #1 - catalyst intake pipe (11 76 1 716 743) - 1 pc. In my case, the catalyst was replaced with a double stronger one.

Part No. 2 - copper nut M10 (18 30 1 737 774) - 6 pcs. I use TRUCKTEC 0839054 nuts
Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (11 76 1 711 7170 - 2 pcs. I use FEBI 01610
Part No. 4 - manual transmission intake pipe bracket (11 76 1 716 360) - 1 pc. Consists of two parts. For the version without a catalyst and for automatic transmission, the fastening is different.
Part No. 5 - A8.4 washer (33 31 1 108 205) - 2 pcs. Fasteners to the gearbox.
Part No. 6 - M8X20 bolt (07 11 9 903 039) - 2 pcs. Fasteners to the gearbox.
Part No. 7 - M8X25 bolt (07 11 9 915 171) - 1 pc. Fasteners pipes. The thread in the bracket was damaged, so I cut a new M10 thread, and replaced the bolt with M10X25.
Part No. 8 - bolt M8X35 (07 11 9 913 676) - 1 pc. Bracket mounting.
Part No. 9 - washer A8.4 (33 31 1 108 205) - 2 pcs. Bracket mounting.
Part No. 10 - hinge bushing D=8MM (18 20 7 546 579) - 4 pcs. Rubber bushing of the bracket.
Part No. 11 - nut M8 (07 12 9 964 675) - 2 pcs. Mounting bracket.

Part No. 12...No. 15 - not used.
Part No. 16 - lambda probe 4-POL/540MM (11 78 1 716 114) - 1 pc. For restyled cars after 87 has a different connector.

Part No. 17 - protective casing (11 78 1 710 590) - 1 pc.

The original shield is no longer available for order. I couldn't find it at flea markets either, so I made it myself :) I already wrote about it last time.

If someone has an original one, I would buy it.
Part No. 18, No. 19 - are not used. The error in the ETK is the mount for fixing the lambda probe connector for restyled cars.
Part No. 20 - terminal D=6MM (63 12 1 364 431) - 1 pc. Plastic clip for fixing the lambda probe wiring.
Part No. 21 - terminal D=4.5MM (61 13 1 353 865) - 1 pc. Metal clip for fixing the lambda probe wiring.
Part No. 22...No. 26 - in my case is not used, since the front and rear parts of the exhaust system are combined into one whole.

We fasten the intake pipe to the exhaust manifolds with copper nuts (No. 2).


It is not very convenient to fasten, because of these "crutches" and welds. But this is temporary, I have hope ;)


We install the metal clip (No. 21) on the protective shield (No. 17).




The lambda probe is already installed on the intake pipe, so we snap the protective cover onto it.




We fix the lambda probe wiring in the metal clip (No. 21).


On the engine shield, insert the clip (No. 20) into the plastic nut, and fix the wiring in it.


In addition, I fixed the wiring on another such nut.


Connect the lambda probe connector to the engine wiring under the body platform.


Assemble the bracket, through the rubber bushings.






We fasten the bracket to the gearbox with two bolts.




We fasten the pipe to the bracket with one bolt. The mount on the pipe was already homemade, so it didn't match the hole on the bracket. I had to make a temporary "adapter".


So, the front part of the exhaust system is fixed. This is all temporary, I hope that after the car leaves, I will redo it all at the exhaust system repair shop.

More about the rear part of the exhaust system.

P.S.
Exhaust systems without a catalyst have a different design and mounting parts. There are also two types.
Preparation for a catalyst.

Without a catalyst.


Accordingly, I do not consider them.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_180_ETK_18_Exhaust system with catalyst. Rear part

Rear exhaust system




Part #1 - rear additional muffler (18 10 1 705 783) - 1 pc. I have the Polish analogue Polmostrov installed.

Part No. 2 - rubber ring (18 21 1 105 635) - 1 pc. I use the BOSAL 255766 analogue
Part No. 3 - intake pipe bracket (18 21 1 712 511) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - bolt with washer M8X16 (07 11 9 913 214) - 1 pc. Bracket attachment to the rear beam.

Part No. 5 - bracket (18 20 1 707 925) - 1 pc. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 6 - bracket (18 20 1 178 132) - 1 pc. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 7 - bracket (18 21 1 176 029) - 2 pcs. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 8 - nut with a collar M8 (07 11 9 927 022) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 9 - rubber ring (18 21 1 712 838) - 2 pcs.

Part No. 10 - exhaust pipe nozzle 60 MM, chrome (82 11 9 401 456), or black (82 11 9 401 457) - 2 pcs. I have decided not to buy nozzles yet, since I still do not fully understand what the exhaust system will be like after its replacement. If I install nozzles, then black ones - in the general "shadow line" style.

There are clamps for mounting the muffler in the photo, but there is a nuance. As it turned out, for an exhaust system without a catalyst, they are slightly smaller, because the muffler is narrower there. There are also structural differences - one of them consists of three parts, and the second - of two. Due to my carelessness, I bought just such clamps.
Exhaust system without catalyst





Part No. 4 - clamp (118 21 1 707 923) - 1 pc. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 5 - clamp (18 21 1 176 713) - 2 pcs. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 6 - rear muffler bracket (18 21 1 176 033) - 1 pc. Muffler mounting clamp.
Part No. 7 - M8 flange nut (07 11 9 927 022) - 4 pcs.

Part No. 9 - clamp (18 21 1 176 712) - 1 pc. Muffler mounting clamp.


The muffler for the exhaust system with a catalyst is wider, so the clamps do not fit very well.




I'm not sure if I can install them. So for now, I'll temporarily install the muffler on the old mount that's welded directly to the muffler. I'll try to find the right clamps for the exhaust system with a catalytic converter, and install them when I replace it.
But to hang the muffler on those rubber rings, you need a helper and a lift. Because I couldn't do it myself, lying on the floor, no matter how hard I tried... So again - temporary mounting...


So, the exhaust system is installed temporarily, on a temporary mounting, - so that the car can drive itself to the exhaust system service center, where everything will be redone. I hope that this will be done as soon as possible after the car leaves.

Now everything is ready for the first test run of the engine. I will fill in new oil, antifreeze, and soon I will try...

[The_Glory]

Assembly_181. ETK_41_Body (Front wing) continued

At the beginning of the assembly, I wrote about the ETK section
Front wing


I also wrote about its details. Then I temporarily installed the wings. And now, finally, they are installed permanently, on sealant.






Top mount with seven screws.


Bottom mount with two screws.


Rear mount with two screws.




Front mounting with one self-tapping screw under the headlight, and one self-tapping screw under the bumper, near the wheel arch.


The top joint of the wing with the body, and the joint of the engine shield rib must be covered with body sealant. Otherwise, water will get under the hood. Later, I will paint the sealant in the body color, as it was from the factory.


Installing the hood seal and fender seals.




For the BMW E30 M3 Evo III, additional rubber seals were glued to the fenders to close the gap between the fender and the hood.
Left seal (51 71 2 233 121) and right seal (51 71 2 233 122). They are unreasonably expensive - 60 Euros apiece, so maybe someday I'll pick up something similar - they look better.
Now you can also install protective fenders.


Mounting for them.


Plastic clips are inserted into special square holes on the body. During welding work, the master thought it was easier to weld a pin than to make a square hole :). Therefore, instead of a clip and a screw, I will have a pin and a plastic nut at the bottom - like on the upper mount. I think this is not critical.


The top two studs.


The front two mounting plates for self-tapping screws.


I covered the self-tapping screws that secure the BBS body kit from the inside with rubber sealant.


We install the plastic shield, screw it into the clip at the bottom with a plastic nut and a self-tapping screw.


We fasten two plastic nuts from above.


We fasten one self-tapping screw from the front.


The second self-tapping screw and the hole in the shield are for attaching the lower plastic shield. It will be installed later, since first I will need to install the air conditioning compressor


and the power steering pump.


On the left, everything is similar.








The fog lights are already installed and connected. It was necessary to somehow fix the outside temperature sensor for the on-board computer. Since I don't have a standard front spoiler and standard restyled air ducts, there is no place to install the sensor. There is also no place for it in the BBS apron. So, I had to come up with something on the spot. The hole in the front apron for attaching the standard spoiler was a great fit for the sensor.


On the other hand, I put a rubber ring (13 64 1 730 767) for fuel injectors on the sensor - it fit perfectly and fixed the sensor in the hole. The sensor was perfectly positioned.


Later, this will still be covered with the lower plastic shield.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_182. ETK_3_Replacement lamp block

I have already written about lighting parts a long time ago. In ETK there is a replacement lamp block (72 60 8 361 986) - part number 19 on the diagram.


In ETK it is also in the section
Retrofitting, accessories

Spare bulb box


Part #1 - spare bulb box

It has not been available for order for a long time, so it is difficult to find it (photo from the Internet).


There are even later versions, but they are also no longer available, or are sold on eBay for $50-150 - very expensive, in my opinion. For example, such a block.


But recently, a colleague in the club offered me a new lamp block for a symbolic amount of money, which visually looks very similar to the original. I bought it, just in case - it looks like the original option, and may be suitable for its intended purpose! ;)


The lamps are not quite what you need.


So I re-equipped the unit with the necessary spare bulbs and fuses.


It will be in the trunk just in case. ;)


P.S.
Today I pick up my order with all the necessary technical fluids and lubricants, fill it in, and I will try to start the engine. I still need to buy some gasoline, because it definitely won't start! :)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_183. ETK_83_Technical and auxiliary materials

So, the ETK section
Technical and auxiliary materials

There is only one subsection in it
Transmission oil




Part No. 1, No. 2 - not used.
Part No. 3 - manual transmission oil SAE 80 1000ML, TU (81 22 9 401 225).
Part No. 4 - manual transmission oil SAE 80 1000ML, TU (81 22 9 401 220).

As you can see, there is also an option with automatic transmission oil. In the manual transmission section, I already wrote that Dexron II automatic transmission oil can also be used for manual transmissions. Such manual transmissions have an orange sticker with the inscription "ATF Oil". But, this is mainly on later models. My manual transmission never had such a sticker, so although I thought about switching to ATF, I still decided not to experiment and left the usual transmission oil, which I always poured.

A set of technical fluids for E30 M20B25 with manual transmission.




As you can see, the volume of liquids is not small! And there is still no freon for the air conditioner. :)
Although, I bought all the liquids, of course, with a small margin.
Coolant - blue antifreeze HEPU G11, 5l x 3.


Engine oil - Q8 10W40, 4l x 2.
Manual transmission oil - Q8 80W90, 1l x 2.
Power steering oil - Q8 ATF Dexron III, 1l x 2.
Limited gear oil - Castrol LSD 75W140, 1l x 2.


Brake fluid - TEXTAR DOT 4, 1l x 2.
Windscreen washer concentrate - LIQUI MOLY 1:100, 0.25l.
Distilled water for windshield washer, 5l.
Gasoline A-95 EVRO, 20l.


So, I poured oil into the gearbox before installing it. But for some reason I didn't pour it into the manual transmission. Probably out of stupidity! ) Now, it's very inconvenient to do this on a car, especially without a lift. So I had to look for a "special tool".


But even with it, lying under the car, it was very inconvenient. So, I had to look for a hose for it, and an assistant, and thus pour oil into the gearbox.


Then I replaced the oil in the engine, filled it with antifreeze and gasoline. Now everything is absolutely ready for a test run of the engine! ;)

I will fill in the brake fluid and power steering fluid after installing the brake calipers and pump. And the washer fluid, right before leaving the garage ;)

P.S.
I took the volumes of all technical fluids from the factory instructions for the BMW E30 325i. If someone doesn't have it, it might be useful.

Fuel tank (until 87, or for diesel) - 55l
Fuel tank (after 87, except diesel) - 63l
Windscreen washer tank - 3l
Intensive glass cleaning tank (option) - 1l
Rear windshield washer tank (touring) - 2.5l
Cooling system - 10.5l
Cooling system with air conditioning (option) - 11l
Engine oil (with filter) - 4.75l
Engine oil (without filter) - 4.5l
Automatic engine oil refill tank (aftermarket option) - 3l
Manual transmission oil - 1.25l
Automatic transmission oil - 3l
Transfer box oil (325ix) - 0.5l
Front gear oil (325ix) - 0.7l
Rear gear oil (188 type) - 1.7l
Power steering fluid - 1.2l
Brake fluid - 1.2l
Air conditioner freon 850-900g

[The_Glory]

Gentlemen, start your engines!

The day has come! :) Finally, a test run of the engine!
For the sake of such a long-awaited event, I even washed the car from dust! )


On the outside, all that remains is to paint and install the front and rear bumpers, and return the moldings to the doors.








The oil has been changed, antifreeze has been added.


First test of the engine wiring, so far without gasoline )

https://youtube.com/shorts/pBc7gBI_a4Q

The starter turns - that's good! ) I fill it with gasoline and try again - let's get it started! ;)

https://youtube.com/shorts/8WhF_SM4ej8

That's it!... As it turned out - there is no power to the fuel pump, injectors, or spark plugs... I'm starting to look for where it went... Directly, with a jumper instead of a relay, the pump works, and pumps normally. The idle speed regulator valve also starts to buzz if you put a jumper. I thought that the main relay was not working. I'm trying to start with a 30-87 jumper. oops, i did it again...

https://youtube.com/shorts/zNkqvhegNZs

And again, as the Muscovites say, - "negative" start!... )
I start looking at the ETM diagrams. Up to and including 86, the main relay was activated via the green (!) wire with power from the ignition switch to the main relay contact 86. I have a red wire with constant power there. I remember that I have a later Motronic 1.3 engine wiring, with a 3-row DME connector. I take an ETM from 89 - there the main relay is activated via the brown wire with "mass" from the DME to the main relay contact 85! And I have a GREEN (!!) wire there! According to ETM, the green wire is the power supply from the ignition switch. I'm a little confused.... how can a relay work from two "pluses"? I looked through ETM again over the years, and only in the diagrams for 87 did I find this GREEN wire! Oddly enough, it turned out that this is the "ground" wire from DME! Apparently, German engineers, after replacing the power supply diagram and activating the main relay, forgot to change the color of this wire! :) And then, realizing their mistake, from 88 they changed the color of this GREEN "ground" wire (!!) to the traditional brown! Although, in my opinion, it would be more correct to replace it with brown with a colored stripe - this is not a permanent "ground", but an activating one.
So, if someone has an 87 engine wiring, then keep this in mind!
While I was dealing with this "quest" with wires, I noticed that the main relay has two contacts 87. Separate power supply for the pump and injectors, and separate power supply for the DME. I put a jumper 30-87-87. it works!

https://youtube.com/shorts/e-mYG6ItmNI

Finally!! It works! I was happy like a child with a new toy! )))
But something needs to be done with that relay. I checked it - on the table from the power supply it works normally. That is, the problem is not in the relay. And then I remember that once upon a time, right after buying the car, I had the same problem. Then the main relay did not work due to a rotten wire. I unwrap the end of the harness, and I see that old twist - on the same GREEN wire! But it's intact. And the wire still doesn't "ring". That is, it has rotted somewhere else again, and the relay does not activate... I don't understand why, maybe some defective wire...


I didn't want to pull out and cut all the plastic corrugations on the engine wiring, so I just added another parallel duplicate GREEN (!) wire in the corrugation, from pin 36 of the DME to pin 85 of the main relay. I installed the white main relay, and I'm trying to start the engine again.


done!

https://youtube.com/shorts/MdusdwjYgfs

Finally, now everything works fine!
By By the way, I noticed that the scheme of operation of the white relay is similar to the scheme of operation of the black relay, which is installed on the dipped beam and fog lights. But according to ETK, they are different for some reason. Out of curiosity, I installed a black relay instead of a white one - everything works.


That is, if absolutely necessary, you can remove the relay from the headlights and install it instead of the main relay.
We close the relay with a plastic cover - everything is ready!


The engine starts, runs fine. But for the car to be able to drive on its own, I still need to buy and install a new power steering pump, and restore and install the brake calipers.

P.S.
By the way, about the relay - if anyone noticed - an additional yellow relay on the fuse box. Maybe next time I'll write about it! ;)

[roguetoaster]

Congratulations!!!

That "ha!" you said when the car started is heartwarming and familiar to any car person.

[The_Glory]

Congratulations!!!

That "ha!" you said when the car started is heartwarming and familiar to any car person.

Thank you! I am really happy! )

[Mazi!]

That is looking so good!!

you are genius!

[mjweimer]

Outstanding! Congratulations - nothing like the feeling of that first start.

[The_Glory]

That is looking so good!!

you are genius!

Thanks)