E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Glory to Ukraine - with guys like you the 'orcs' are meat,

Thanks

[Tom Galloway]

Glory to Ukraine - with guys like you the 'orcs' are meat,

[The_Glory]

Our VII Festival 2018 passed a long time ago, I, accordingly, was without E30, so I did not write anything in my blog, as I have nothing to brag about)).



But the other day, our photographer posted a video that I want to share ;)

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpPeUyuZLUA


Well, there were a couple of photos with me - I stood all day with the flag, I didn't really see anything - as usual))





Although, I looked into some cars)



Some seller of buns with a "mother-in-law" walked along the highway all the time and yelled))



There were many cars, I counted about 100.



...everyone drove and drove... )





There was even such a one! 320is



And such)





In our traditional contest for the best car of the Festival, the beautiful blue cabriolet of Andrey TATARIN won:



Three prize winners in the sprint:
1st place - Vlad Mad_Max, (Odessa) and his combat thirty



2nd place - Polezhaka, (Kyiv) on a cool drift car



3rd place - Ruslan Rulchyk, (Kyiv) and his strange car



It was great, I hope everyone liked it!
See you next year....I hope too...

PS
Another video from the previous festival in 2017:

https://youtu.be/Zk-dPRDoSUs

[The_Glory]

In the meantime, I’m dealing with other issues - I painted the ceiling, tried to glue the BBS, dismantled the motor in order to paint the collector in a more decent color, otherwise some people laughed at it from the first day))))

About the ceiling:

S775A Anthracite headlining

All E30 models in the "M-Technic" retrofit package were equipped with a black headlining - ANTHRAZIT.
I have long wanted such a ceiling for myself, but the prospect of removing the windshield and rear window to install it stopped me and I put it off for later ... Now the glass has been removed and I remembered the black ceiling! ) But looking for it on ebay, I went nuts from the current prices for it !! In addition, for a 4-door sedan with a sunroof - this is generally a super rarity - I've seen it on sale twice all the time - I had to take it for $ 100 then :)
In addition, judging by the photo, and the words of my friend, who put himself such a ceiling, this ceiling in the original was not made of another, completely black fabric, but simply painted black on the front side.
Photo from ebay outside - black:



He is white on the inside.



So I decided to paint my ceiling black with suede paint. Farm, you say? Well, to some extent, you will be right! But if there is no difference in fabric, cut, or fasteners, but only in color, then why pay more? ? ) What's the difference - they dyed the fabric 30 years ago, then sewed it and installed it, or installed it, drove it for 30 years, and then dyed it? )) In the second case, the view will be even fresher) Therefore, I consider such a "collective farm" acceptable! )) Moreover, I have already seen how people painted with ordinary spray paint and skin paint - it looked good.
In general, my ceiling was, anyway, not in the best condition - dirt and stains, it seems, from the glue with which it was last glued during assembly. By the way, what kind of glue should be used to glue it so that there are no stains?



Therefore, I decided to wash it well - first with a cleaning paste, then with another powder with a brush, on both sides. Much better, but not perfect.



I bought 3 large cans of black suede paint and painted in two coats. Enough was enough.



But, damn it, those same glue stains still showed up on black !!



I bought another spray and painted it in the third layer - now it seems to be normal, but we'll see ...

While it's still warm, I gave the interior and trunk carpet for dry cleaning - it became much better.





You will also need to clean the side panels of the trunk.

[The_Glory]

[B] Body repair_07. Thresholds and front frame. [/ B]

The welder's vacation is over - since the beginning of August, work, although slower, but still continues ...
Both thresholds were welded, jacks were made, drainage drains of the thresholds were restored, the old inserts in the front corners were redone, more accurate, repeating the original shape of the floor.



The seams are not completely cleaned yet.





It’s a real problem with the hinges of the driver’s door - they don’t exist anywhere at all .... (If someone in Ukraine has one, write, I’ll buy it very much! These are, only without backlashes (although this, it seems, is unlikely)



Apparently, you still have to sharpen new bushings, and restore your own ...

As I wrote in the previous entry, the front part has already been brought to the factory dimensions, but on my frame since the last accident there were traces of straightening, and now more fresh ones have been added. It’s not that they were very conspicuous, or it’s very crooked there, but after painting, it will spoil the view ... You can, of course, putty, or score ... but I’ll know that they are there !. ..)) Therefore, in order not to get upset every time I open the hood, I decided to change the frame to a whole one. Moreover, in any case, on mine it was necessary to add lower brackets for a restyled radiator, so that it would stand normally, without a collective farm from improvised means)) But they already exist on the new frame. I don’t want to install the “correct” radiator before restyling, mine will remain, with a built-in expansion tank - not according to Feng Shui, but it looks neater. I don’t like the expansion tank before the restyling at all, but there is nowhere to put the restyling, I have an automatic oil filling tank there.
Therefore, I bought a fresher frame from the touring, plastic inserts into it under the radiator, and at the same time the front hood loop with whole bushings, since on mine they were worn out into the trash, and the hood staggered wildly to the sides when open.





There was a sticker on the frame that I had never seen before:



Such a German warning, in which the Germans sternly warn that if you change at least one nut in the car for a non-original one, then they cannot vouch for themselves !!! )))



I also brought fenders, all sorts of shields there, so that they could weld the missing mounting studs under the plastic nuts everywhere. I also brought the BBS lining, so that the gaps would be set already taking into account its installation.
Well, that's all for now.

P.S.
I also went to the painter, looked at samples, paints ... I don’t know what to choose! ....)))

[The_Glory]

Body repair_06. The most difficult part of the bodywork is done.

And the ice has broken! )
Finally, the process has begun! ) Work began from the most difficult and problematic place - the platform under the fuse box and the left side member. From the donor piece was cut live area with support rack and part of the spar and welded instead of my rotten. Holes were drilled in my support, so at the same time they also changed it. An insert under the beam was already welded into the left spar, so at the same time it was replaced with a whole donor spar.



The motor shield was leveled and a crack welded in it - it's easier than changing it. The floor from the cabin was re-welded in one piece, instead of the old patches.
After checking the geometry, it turned out that the left side did not hold out after an accident by almost 1 cm! I always disliked her, and as it turned out, for good reason)
The niche of the body pillar was jammed, which is between the wheel and the body hinges. I hit the front part relatively not hard, but even before me, according to the previous owner, it was hit hard on the left side - that's when the wheel hushed up this niche and pulled the body pillar. Now it’s clear why the gap along the frame of the driver’s door was different, and I only sinned on the hinges ....
In general, everything was pulled out to the factory dimensions, now the gaps on the door are even.



But the loops still need to be changed, but I can not find them. If suddenly someone has left rear (or live front) hinges that are not collapsible until the age of 85, I’ll buy it.
On the supports, too, everything is in factory sizes, by the way, just in case, they put my home-made spacer - it became almost perfect on the new support)



It will be necessary to buy later for Feng Shui, some branded old school one;)
The front frame was also pulled out, but there were dents on it, well, you need to weld brackets for the radiator from the restyling on it, so I will change it completely to the restyled one, along with the hood hinge mechanism - the backlash is wild there ...



They cut off the left threshold - the inner threshold, in principle, is alive - thanks to good processing. We welded only the places of the jacks. Well, a couple more patches on the bottom. On this, at the moment, that's all for now ... The welder has a vacation for two weeks, so the "commercial break" is until August))

I immediately talked about painting - it’s even complicated there .... the painter disappeared somewhere, when it’s not clear, or it will be different ... if it is ... it’s not known how he paints .... and the price is mine I didn’t like it very much, as for such a paint job .... Therefore, I previously “signed up” for painting with my painter, who painted it back in 2000, and then painted the front after my accident and then painted the BBS body kit for me. I am more than satisfied with the quality - for an 18 year old paintwork still looks quite normal. For many, a couple of years after painting, it looks worse ...
One of these days, maybe I’ll go to him to look at colors ... but they, damn it, are all different! Which one to choose .... difficult ...)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_05. BBS body kit repair, preparation

Work on the body began only recently, so there is no news yet. We started with the most problematic place - the engine shield and the driver's floor. Maybe one of these days I will go and see how it is and what happened.
While there is still time, I decided to deal with the body kit, since it will need to be installed and adjusted before painting. From the current set, I only have the rear apron, which needs to be glued. The front apron will be the same, but more correct - precisely under M20V25 with an oil radiator, with slots for blowing it. But the ego also needs to be glued a little. Well, finally the rapids with foliage, which I have been looking for for so long, have finally arrived! ) But there is a small jamb there that needs to be eliminated.
To begin with, I thoroughly washed/cleaned all the parts. Here is all my BBS treasure))











And also BBS on the "nightstand")


I'll also bring it to mind and paint it....and we'll see there....maybe I'll change it to suit my mood ;)
The steering wheel also needs to be brought to mind, but more on that later.
I'll say right away - I'm not going to sell anything from this! )

The difference between the front aprons - the upper one is new with additional slots for blowing the oil radiator:



It also has slots on the bottom, apparently for factory protection of the engine:



Well, the new one shows a strange factory solution for access to the towing eye - a slot that is closed with a "Velcro" cover. I already wrote about this before.
On the old one, I made a plug for the towing loop. But this "collective farm" looks no worse than the factory "collective farm with Velcro"))) Therefore, I don't know what to do - rearrange the plug, or make a cover with Velcro, as it was in the original?
From the inside, the new apron does not look perfect, but it is much better than the old one, which was assembled from pieces.



Well, now, actually about the upcoming repair. As you know, including from my own experience, it is not easy to repair a BBS body kit. It is made of durable and flexible polyurethane, but if it does manage to break, then it will not work simply by gluing or soldering it - it is very poorly glued and does not solder at all, but simply burns out. Therefore, in the past, after several unsuccessful attempts to glue it with various "super mega glues", I sent the body kit for repair to a special office, where they glued it to me with something similar to body polyurethane sealant. They did not seal it cheaply, but it was quite high-quality. But all the same, "thanks" to my clearance, after several rather hard contacts with the curbs, cracks appeared, and then the joints split completely, despite the internal riveted "exoskeleton" made of metal! )) I didn't want to repeat it again, so I started looking for other, more reliable, repair methods. Googled the repair of polyurethane body kits with the help of a 2-component polyurethane compound. Inspired by my colleague's experience and convinced that it works, I decided to follow the same path! I bought everything necessary for the repair - anti-silicone, primer for plastic, mesh, adhesive compound, sandpaper, putty and, just in case, body sealant:



The main component is a polyurethane 2-component adhesive composition Terason 9225sf produced by the firm Henkel.



I was looking for Terason 9225, but only Terason 9225sf was available - super fast, i.e. with greater speed of grasping. By the way, it is even a little cheaper, but you will have to work with it faster. ) It is not cheap for such a volume - about $18 for 50 ml. In the photo, I put a pen for comparison - the tube is not very big... I hope it will be enough for me...



By the way, a special pistol is needed for it, but the seller said that for one-time use, it is possible to do without it, since its price is also not pleasing. I will even invent... )
In the set, a tube, a nozzle for it, and a large detailed instruction with pictures in 12 languages, except Ukrainian)





In principle, everything is clear and nothing complicated, especially since there is also a video on the Internet. But about the process and the result in the next entry.

P.S.
Finally, I will have a rear number plate light, which was brewed for some reason even before me)
New Hella lamps:



To be continued.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_04. Let's go for welding

The next evening, finally, having waited for the tow truck, which was more than an hour late, we loaded up and moved out to the welder.







The neighbors looked at this process with surprise, and one even came up to clarify - is this the same one, my car ....? :) After my affirmative answer, he expressed sincere regret - "very sorry ((... she was so beautiful ... and the color was so interesting ..." :) Apparently, he thought that I had taken it apart and was taking it to ferrous metal :) After my promise that after painting it will become even better, he nodded approvingly and said: "Ah, well then!" )) Unexpectedly, but it's nice that my "thirty" is not indifferent to the neighbors either)) In some way, even the local "attraction" was)))
Having received the neighbor's "blessing" :), we move forward.
As they say - "He said" Let's go! "And waved his hand!" (With) :)



We drove, by the way, not so very slowly - I thought tow trucks drive slower and more accurately. By the way, my E30 was driving on a tow truck for the first time.
Right row



Left row



middle row



And this is at a speed of 100+



And on empty straight lines and a little more)



Either he was making up for his lateness, or he was just a "racer")) But anyway, we arrived when it started to get dark, so I didn't take pictures on the spot, and so far nothing interesting. We talked with the welder, discussed further plans, goals and prospects, estimated the scope of work, and returned home.
I hope that the "ice has broken" and further news will be more interesting;)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_03. Preparation, assembly

While I was waiting for my turn to the welder, I decided not to waste time and still clean all the bitumen (which I myself foolishly smeared 7-8 years ago) from the cabin, trunk and other places, so that I could paint it all normally later. In the previous post you can see the intermediate result. Further, after a spatula, a chisel and a hammer, a brush went into action on a drill, then a lot of diesel fuel, a lot of rags, a lot of patience and time! )) As a result, the bottom began to look quite acceptable ...









Let me remind you how it was before :)



All in all, it wasn't easy! ) I don’t know, maybe this anticorrosive agent helped to save the bottom, but I won’t smear it anymore)) Only vibration, as in the factory. By the way, no one knows by what logic the Germans glued it on the bottom? Why was the vibration on the left rear panel glued to the front of the stamping, and on the right rear panel - in the back of this stamping (the photo shows lighter spots). Why not the entire stamping on both sides? The front is not symmetrical at all - the driver's side is larger in area. And so on all the E30s, the bottom of which I saw ....
By the way, I also decided to remove the factory vibration isolation from the rear seat. And for good reason - there are holes near the wiring holes.



Further, the same long and tedious procedure in the trunk.











There, now, too, the view is more aesthetic) Old patches will either be changed or cultivated somehow ...
In general, where I could, I tore off this bitumen, and where it remained, we will sand it.

Then I leveled, as best I could, barbarously cut holes for the speakers. Shelf sample 84 years old, without the intervention of music lovers could not be found, so we will cook our own.





It has become a little more accurate ... after welding it should be good.

Well, actually, I got ready to leave for the cook - I hung back the "new" body elements - four doors, a hood, an apron, a tank hatch, a sunroof. He left his wings, we will put repair inserts on the bottom. The trunk is still our own, but there is also a "new" one - we will decide on the spot which one we will install.
Threw grilles and bumpers.





"Air-conditioning" apron ;) Although the seller assured of its perfect evenness, but in fact, on the left it is not slightly curved .... but not critical - it will even out.



I folded all the boxes and parts so that nothing was lost for many years before assembly))) There was a place in the garage again. You can dig a hole. )



Rolled out into the street for the first time in six months, so that it would be ventilated))







I loaded the rest of the bodywork into the cabin, and we are waiting for a tow truck. Tomorrow we go to the welder!

[The_Glory]

Body repair_02. The scale of the tragedy

Let's continue the clarification of the scale of the tragedy, begun in the previous entry.

On the rear window with a lower corner on the left side, the situation is worse than on the windshield, but also not critical. By the way, both glasses were planted on some kind of black type of rubber tape - it is still soft, you can see it in the photo. On top of which there is still a protective film or adhesive tape - I wonder if this is how it should be from the factory or has it already been glued by yourself? But it didn't go anywhere.
You can also see the native color - PLATANENGRUEN METALLIC (188)



The photo shows cracks in the corner of the trunk and under the roof rack. Here we again recall that there was once a blow to this wing, and there was a lot of putty on it - it cracked. I found this out when I drilled a hole for the antenna. Even earlier, the trunk loop immediately fell off, then I also noticed putty at the junction. In general, the next largest "horror of our town" is the junction of the rear arch and the trunk floor. There has been suspicious rust for a long time .... and now, after light picking with a screwdriver, we get this thing:



I haven’t decided what to do with it yet, I’ll talk with a welder - either patch it or change the arch ... There is also a small hole on the same side member from below.
On the right side, the situation is much better, although there is also a little rust ... and outside the shield of the tank ventilation hoses has rotted to dust ... an autopsy will show ...



Both niches of the wings, after being cleared of mastic, look quite intact.





They have a lot of white sealant at the joints, which is still very soft and plastic - I also don’t understand if it’s factory or has already been smeared ....?
I also covered the spare wheel niche with a fool for some reason with bituminous mastic))) Ripped off. Old patches we can ennoble, and so everything is fine.



Left arch and threshold







The right arch and threshold are slightly worse











The thresholds have already been welded a little, so it’s not so scary from the outside - but since this is the case, we will change them entirely along with the arches.
With the rear panel, the question is also ajar for the time being - it was already cooked on the left under the bumper and again there is rust



In addition, for some reason, holes were welded in it for the number plate lights. We'll see if we can change to a new one ...
Well, the trunk lid - "classic" rust under the spoiler ...



On the right, so generally through, apparently the drain was clogged ...



Because of this, it will have to be changed. But the new cover has no holes for the spoiler at all .... and it’s a pity to drill it and I want to leave my Breyton, just remove the stop from it ...
I didn’t take a picture of the hood, it’s just straightened and there is cracked putty on it, so it will change. The tank hatch is also with a large "bug" for replacement. I also wanted to change the manhole cover because of the "bug", but the best of those that I managed to find, in fact, turned out to be worse than mine, so I'll leave mine ...

Well, actually, for iron, like everything that we managed to find on our own. So far, no "surprises" - everything was predictable and not fatal. This is how I imagined the "scale of the tragedy" ...;)
But after the "opening" at the welder, I think it can still get out even ...

Lastly, a couple of pictures of the "creative mess" in the garage - E30 in the form of a heap))





It's good that the garage is large, but there is still not enough space ... I don't know where and when I will put it all down and how I will look for everything later when assembling ....



P.S.
It’s too bad that there is no pit - I got sick of crawling along the rubble on my backs around the car and under it .... Before assembly, you need to make a pit and a normal floor ...

[The_Glory]

Body repair_01. The scale of the tragedy

So, we are starting in the BZ a fascinating, and, like, long series "Body Repair" :) I hope that it will someday end, with a "happy end"! )))

About 7-8 years ago I already did a "local" body repair on the bottom, then a couple of years ago I welded the front beam mounts, but this time everything will be more global.

Let's start with the scale of the tragedy! )
As I wrote in the previous entry, for this the car was dismantled to the state of "bare body on wheels", since it will still have to be transported to the welder. Both beams with hodovka will be removed on the spot.
The scale of the tragedy lying on the surface has long been visible to the naked eye, so I started collecting bodywork since autumn - I bought new thresholds and repair inserts for the Klokerholm rear arches (by the way, the quality of the arches is so-so), a front apron (immediately under air conditioning), four doors (VP), hood, trunk lid, hatch cover, and tank hatch.







Those. all hinged elements of the body. Except the wings. Six months of searching for intact, live original used wings were unsuccessful .... At best, they sell the same ones as mine - alive on top and rotten below .... Buying a new china / taiwan, judging by the reviews, does not make sense - the geometry of the curve, back-to-back gaps and a bunch of crap during installation. I watched the new original .... but did not like their price))). Therefore, while I bought the repair inserts of the lower part on my fenders, let's see how it turns out ... Or maybe there will still be wings while everything is cooking .... At the same time I bought a shield for the tank ventilation hoses, mine rotted into dust.



Next, we move on to the most interesting - after disassembly, we reveal the hidden scale of the tragedy! )
Looking ahead, I’ll say right away that nothing so completely unexpected and very terrible was found, everything was predictable and expected;)
From the moment I bought the car, I knew that it used to be well attached in the front left, and there was also a blow to the rear left fender. Therefore, it is quite logical that the biggest "horrors of our town" turned out to be in these places!
A hole in the side member at the junction with the engine shield, the shield itself is bent, with a crack near the stove entrance, and solid rot under the fuse box - I didn’t like that “patch” from the very beginning, but the prospect of pulling out all the wiring to get to it, scared the hell out of me! ))) Now I got it! Better late than never)) I also found a welding joint on the arch in front of the glass - after the accident, the front part of the wheel arch and the upper spar (gun) were welded. The main spars are native.





A crack appeared again at the junction of the "gun", which had already been welded - apparently the consequences of a rigid suspension and our roads ...



Under the windshield seal there are small holes under both wipers, but the lower corners are completely intact, oddly enough! By the way, I don’t know, if I weld a whole piece near the VIN under the janitor, so that the cops wouldn’t have any questions later ...
We will treat all these biggest body shoals radically, with the help of such a piece of a donor:



The right side is much better preserved - all load-bearing elements are alive. Only near the bottom bracket of the washer reservoir there is a slight corrosion. Judging by the red color, the battery pad has already been digested before, and not bad at all. By the way, I have already knocked out the factory body plugs for the air conditioner - on the platform behind the headlight for the dehumidifier and under the hood loop for the hoses - now anyone will have to close them with something! Stimulus! ;))
It is not yet clear with the “TV”, we will decide with the welder - if it is normal in geometry (which I doubt a little), then we will weld the radiator mounts with an expansion tank (EP) on this one or change it entirely to VP.



Everything seems to be quite normal in the tunnel, except for the welded backstage fasteners - we will fix it)



Let's go to the salon.
Here, back in the last body repair, on the advice of a good welder of the "old school"), instead of gluing a new vibration isolation, I smeared the bottom with bituminous anticorrosive ....



In principle, it’s not bad at all ... but now all the wiring is in it and everything, and in general ... not aesthetically pleasing)) Therefore, I decided to tear it all off, along with the remnants of the factory vibration isolation. It was not easy, but not in vain! And this is what turned out to be under, quite to itself, a normal-looking factory vibration isolation:
hole next to the spar



rear is ok



Now we return to the most "terrible" place, but already from the salon.



Accordingly, there are holes at the junction of the engine shield with the spar and a hole near the gas pedal, suspiciously smeared with rust sealant opposite the "patch" near the glass. Well, old patches. As I wrote above - we will change all this in a whole piece.

Here I haven’t mastered it yet ... oh well, then I smeared it! as for yourself! ))) But there like the identity should be the norm.



With suspicion I look at the vibra under the seat .... can we tear it off ...? There is a little rust around the belt fasteners and one hole near the wiring hole on the left ...



The rear shelf ... pain .... Here barbarian music lovers, like, cut holes under the "ovals" with an ax.





When I changed the music, I, as best I could, leveled the edges and covered them with at least soil ... but something needs to be done with this .... I am looking for the rear shelf of the first years of production (until 85), without traces of music lovers. You need a shelf or parts of it for speakers, and for belts with fastening on the rear roof rack. For belts, the photo shows rectangular holes along the edges of the shelf.
Not everything is fine with the roof either ... I have long been worried about rust at the junction of the "trough" of the hatch and the roof ... and here it is visible from the inside:



Even more disturbing is the surface rust inside this trough - apparently the consequences of driving with an open hatch in wet weather ... I don’t know how to get there .... we will decide with a welder on the spot.



Continued on the back and thresholds in the next post...

To be continued.

[The_Glory]

Well, actually, now about the same new page, or even rather a new chapter, in the life of my E30.
The last winter operation in the winter of 2018.


Delivery of the Christmas tree by road snow-salt mixture. :)


Yes, having reached the 10-year anniversary of our life together :), after Christmas, I somehow decided that it was time to change something!





The appearance after several spray painting thresholds and arches, in this color, after every winter became worse and worse... :(


Therefore, one day he came home


Moved to a higher car ;)


I took a picture of the thirtieth anniversary ;)



Drove her into the garage



And I took it apart a little for parts ... :)



...that's how it is...

[The_Glory]

If you'd like to source some for me I'd gladly purchase ;)

If you need any help in the search or delivery, I will help as much as I can.

[The_Glory]

Very nice build and welcome to R3v.

I didnt know rear side sunshades were an option on e30's, very cool.

Thank you.
Yes, this is a very rare E30 option - the pride of my collection :)

[spike68]

BORBET A is one of the best wheels for E30 in my opinion. They used to be very rare. After buying the E30, I immediately ordered a 7.5x16 set from Germany. But a pair of rear 9x16 4x100 was more difficult to find, especially with flat caps. Now, if you wish, you can find it in different conditions.
By the way, such a set is currently sold at a flea market for 600$, but delivery to the USA will probably cost more than the wheels))

You are absolutely right. It is one of my favorites as well.

Funny story, I've actually been sourcing some Borbet A wheels from someone in Ukraine. His prices are actually very cheap. About $1300 shipped to the USA. Not sure how he is doing it for so cheap, but I'm getting them. If you'd like to source some for me I'd gladly purchase ;)