E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_43. ETK_61_Washer parts

Before putting the damper gasket on the hood, you need to install the windshield washer hoses and nozzles. Go to the section:
General electrical equipment of the car

Washer parts

I have a top-of-the-line system installed - with intensive cleaning of the windshield and with heated nozzles. The set also includes a headlight washer and cleaner. Therefore, now I will focus only on the parts that are placed in the hood, and I will write about everything else in the appropriate section. By the way, for some reason, the details of intensive cleaning are not specified in the ETK at all.


So - nozzles, hoses and wiring.




Part No. 9 - hose D= 4.6MM for a system with intensive cleaning requires 2 pcs.
Detail No. 10 - ordinary nozzles.
Item No. 11 - heated nozzles.
Detail No. 12 - nozzle heating wiring. Before restyling and after restyling, it differs in connectors. I have wiring after restyling, so I redid the corresponding connector on the body wiring. Heating works when the ignition is on.
Part No. 14 - wire holder (12 42 1 284 411), white clip for hose and wiring 2 pcs.
Part No. 15 - valve (61 66 1 374 978) for a system with intensive cleaning requires 2 pcs.
Part No. 16 - wire holder. For a system with intensive cleaning, you need (61 13 1 267 476) D=12.8MM green 2 pcs. and (12521276147) D=16.8MM blue 2 pcs.
Detail General Discussion - corner fitting. For a system with intensive cleaning, 4 pcs.

Hoses for standard cleaning and intensive cleaning are connected to the nozzles in parallel through tees (2 pcs.), which are not shown in the diagram, and corner fittings (4 pcs.). They are fixed with clips with wiring and attached to the hood. The nozzles are inserted into the hood and connected to the wiring. For the hoses on the damper gasket of the hood, a special stamping is provided, which closes them.


Hoses and wiring run along the hood ribs. I used a flexible steel wire for this.


They are brought out in the lower corner of the hood and attached with clips to the hood and to the body. In the same place, the "minus" wiring terminal is screwed to the hood bolt.


Hoses and wiring are led to the place of installation of the tank.


Injectors, hoses and wiring installed.


I will write about other parts of the washer in the section on headlight cleaner.
Next will be about the hood.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_42. ETK_51_Body equipment. Soundproofing

To continue assembling the front part of the body, namely the hood, it is necessary to first install some other elements on it.

I'll start with sound insulation.

Body equipment

I already wrote about one section on sound insulation earlier. Today we will consider the second section on sound insulation

Sound Insulation


Details #1-4 - sound insulation of the hood. For some reason, I didn't have it at all on the old hood. On the new one, it, like most, was in a state of junk. So I tore off her remains, and the glue from her remained. There was no time to wash it, it was necessary to take the hood to body work. Then I forgot about the glue and gave the car for painting. The hood was painted there, along with glue...


The fool came out, of course. :) But we have what we have.
On top of the old glue, the sound insulation will not hold, therefore, it is now necessary to somehow remove this glue with paint. I bought a special rubber wheel.


I will say right away - after the first attempt, I realized that it is not very suitable for such purposes. Therefore, I decided to act in stages. The first stage is a hair dryer and a spatula. The second stage is a rubber circle. The third stage is solvent and rags. The fourth stage is painting in body color.


Spent the whole day on it. It's just some kind of horror, not glue!
1 stage


2 stage (as I already said - the result after the rubber circle is doubtful)


3 stage


4th stage


If I painted even the bottom, the hood should be blue too! :) But because of the light soil with which I covered the scratches, it turned out with spots - I told you that I'm not a very good painter! :)


But it is not critical - it will still be closed with sound insulation.

Now the isolation itself. It is available to order (51 48 8 103 798), but I did not like the price of 60 euros. That's why I bought 1 meter of similar material for 5 euros, made templates from the old hood and cut it out.




Maybe not as perfect as in the original, but the functionality is the same.


Especially since it will still be covered with a damping gasket (#5). Such a gasket was installed on diesel cars, on some 325i and on the M3. Mine was very dirty and rubbed off in several places. Therefore, I washed it with chemicals and glued it a little on the inside.


But painted it with black matte paint.


18 clips Special (51 48 1 938 725 or 51 48 1 915 964) are required for fastening.


Previously, I had some other clips, so this trim did not hold tightly to the hood, which may be why it rubbed in places.
There are several different numbers of this gasket in ETK. In my case, it is 51 48 1 922 449, for cars of 84-87 - what is needed.


By the way, in the photo, clips 51 48 1 938 725 - look more beautiful than 51 48 1 915 964.

All sound insulation of the hood is installed.


But there are also other details in this subdivision.



Part No. 7 - soundproofing of the threshold front left (51 48 1 911 387) and right (51 48 1 911 388)
Part No. 8 - soundproofing of the rear threshold, left (51 48 1 911 389) and right (51 48 1 911 390)
I also cut these parts from similar material based on the pattern from my old parts. The material is similar to building waterproofing.
Part No. 9 - soundproofing of the compartment for small items (51 48 1 913 064). A foam insert that is placed around the gear box lever.



Part No. 10 - soundproofing of the partition of the luggage compartment (51 48 1 911 852). Cape made of felt. Just cleaned it. By hand, and very carefully, because it tears easily.


Part No. 11 - soundproofing of the rear shelf (51 46 1 929 488). I'm not sure about the number here. For me, it consists of three separate parts. The left and right parts of the "music lovers" were slightly cut when larger speakers were installed.


On top it was covered with another overlay. I'm not sure how it should be, but so be it.



So, in terms of sound insulation, only floor insulation remained. But first you need to lay all the wiring.

P.S.
Maybe someone will need my vibration and sound insulation templates.


The first 1:1 scale file for printing full-size patterns on a plotter.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oZwGiHdJKw-HOdbOV_TAMqAdu_Xasbtx/view?usp=share_link

The second file is at a scale of 1:5 for printing pattern drawings on a printer.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C9K6W-aDgJmvGpJ99KN3EgfO2hKGDefu/view?usp=share_link

[The_Glory]

I don't think I've ever seen the tow eye seal for whatever reason. For black parts you do end up painting, SEM Trim Black seems to be about a perfect match for original paint, of course you may have already mentioned this in the thread.

Unfortunately, this paint is not sold in Ukraine. Buying it on eBay is too difficult, time-consuming and expensive. There are similar analogues here. And in fact, I ordered a similar acrylic paint based on the computer selection in the color of the original overlay. I hope it will be the right color...

[roguetoaster]

I don't think I've ever seen the tow eye seal for whatever reason. For black parts you do end up painting, SEM Trim Black seems to be about a perfect match for original paint, of course you may have already mentioned this in the thread.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_41. ETK_41_Body (front part)

There were some unforeseen difficulties with the upper lining of the trunk, so I will write about it a little later. For now, I will return to the ETK_41 section Bodywork

This time I will start from the beginning of the chapter. :)

Body frame


Here is such a beautiful body frame of a 4-door sedan with a sunroof (41 00 1 942 099), after it has been painted.


Front fascia




Parts #1-6, 12, 17 are the front body frame.
Part No. 7 - front apron bar (41 33 1 884 353), which is a separate part for cars up to 85 years old, and is attached to the apron with self-tapping screws and insert plates.
Part No. 8 - front apron for cars up to 85 years old (41 33 1 916 986). It is also called "oblique", because of the characteristic slope, as on older "sharks".
For 85-87 cars, the front apron and its bar are one part, (41 33 1 933 770), or with additional slots for air conditioning and for diesel cars (41 33 1 933 772). This apron is called "straight", because of its more vertical appearance in profile.
For cars after restyling in 1987, the apron is completely different (41 33 1 961 225) or with additional slots for the air conditioner (41 33 1 961 227)
In my case, a "straight" apron for a 325i from 85-87, with slots for an air conditioner (41 33 1 933 772).
Details #9-11 - fastening of the apron - self-tapping screws and insert plates.


Two self-tapping screws on the vertical posts of the front frame, and two on its lower part. Two more on the edges at the junction of the wing and apron bar.
The apron is installed temporarily, it will still be necessary to adjust all the gaps, and then it will already be fixed.


Details #13-15 - fasteners for the air conditioner. Therefore, I will write about them in the section on air conditioning.
Part No. 16 - rubber seals for towing loops. Left (51 71 1 916 185) and right (51 71 1 916 186).



They are tightly inserted between the apron and the spar.




Parts Regional Forums and E34/E28 Forums - not used - this is a towing eye for E30 M3 only.

The following section:
Front body parts

As you can see, this is the entire front part of the body. Also shown here are diffusers for blowing through the radiator and clips for their attachment.
Parts Forum and Blogs are not used.
Part No. 5 - for cars without air conditioning, and clip No. 4 for its fastening.
Part No. 6 and No. 7 - for cars with air conditioning, and clips No. 8 for its fastening.
I have so far only clips Private Messages (51 48 1 915 964). You need 4 pieces, and a whole pack arrived. :) Shields must be bought. But I will write about them in the section on air conditioning.


Details Albums and #10 - only for M3.

The next section is basically the same front part of the body, but in detail. Some of the parts are still available to order.
Wheel arch/spar


Everything is assembled.



Section on small parts and brackets.
Front fender details




Since all these parts are welded to the body, there is no point in talking about them separately - they are all in their places.


And it is worth writing about plugs.
Part E34/E28 Forums - plug (51 71 1 911 299) D=6.9MM.


Two plugs in the holes on the platform for the battery. They are installed only on cars with a battery in the trunk, instead of a plastic spacer (61 21 1 350 825), which serves as an additional stop when installing the battery under the hood.


Item No. 20 - I mentioned it earlier. Plug in motor shield. Apparently, this is another mistake in ETK - there is a plug D=35MM, but in fact, there is a 20mm hole. That's why I put the same plug there as in the trunk - 51 71 1 801 066.


Part Members Rides - oval plug (51 71 1 872 829) 30X36MM, used only on cars with automatic transmission. Two such plugs are placed in the holes instead of the clutch cylinder hoses. Not used in this case.
Part General Technical - plug (51 71 1 972 464) D=52MM. Everything is correct here with the diameter - it is a large hole above the platform for the battery (in the photo above), through which the motor wiring passes. I don't understand what the plug is for. Not used in this case. Hole under the battery terminal:


Another section on small parts and brackets.
Front bracket


These details are also in their places. In addition to details #10-13. This is a steering column spacer for cars with an airbag. I probably won't be putting this option on my car, so it won't be used for now. And if I do decide to bet, I will write about it in the appropriate section.


P.S.
Several new bags have arrived for further assembly.



And several bags went to electroplating


I am also waiting for all the "shadow line" elements to be painted. I didn't risk painting it myself, because as practice has shown, I'm not a very good painter :) I chose the color from the selection of paints - semi-matte black. It should be beautiful - as in the original. ;)

[The_Glory]

amazing looking car...love the color

Thank you.
What color exactly? Previous or present? )

[325isman]

amazing looking car...love the color

[roguetoaster]

yes, it turned out pretty well. I painted the inside of the boxes with matte plastic paint and the outside with textured plastic paint. So they look almost like they once looked new :)

No, I won't be using that bracket. Although it would be possible to transfer the phone there. But I don't have additional skin, so I'll leave it as it was.
Moreover, I definitely don't want to drill holes for it along the drain of the wing so that water can still get there later.

Makes sense on both counts.

[The_Glory]

yes, it turned out pretty well. I painted the inside of the boxes with matte plastic paint and the outside with textured plastic paint. So they look almost like they once looked new :)

No, I won't be using that bracket. Although it would be possible to transfer the phone there. But I don't have additional skin, so I'll leave it as it was.
Moreover, I definitely don't want to drill holes for it along the drain of the wing so that water can still get there later.

[roguetoaster]

Your battery tray and organizer came out well, they're tough things to paint nicely. I think that bracket for the automatic sport knob controller might be a great place to mount a spare parts container of some belts/lights/something else small.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_40. ETK_51_Coating of the luggage compartment

To complete the door assembly, I need to wait for my clip order, get the outer handle mechanisms from electroplating, and paint the "shadow line" overlays. Therefore, in order not to waste time, I return to the rear part.
Body trim

Namely:
Trunk compartment trim


I had the most "rare" side panels of the trunk - the first years of production - carpet with cardboard linings in some places. In normal condition, but at the bottom they were very contaminated with antirust. Also, the right fairing was from the 316, not the 325. The difference is that for the 325, it does not cover the lower niche where the battery is located, and has a special stamping along the wheel arch to pass the battery cable. So, I decided to replace both of them with newer ones - a carpet on a hard plastic base. The condition is good, although I had to glue them a little in several places and clean them well with chemicals. The color of all skins is the same - this makes it easier to find a replacement.
By the way, before restyling and after restyling, the skins are also different - cutouts for rear lights, and a place for attaching a wheel wrench and a towing eye. But I will write about it later.

All the parts together do not fit on the table, so the photo is in parts.

Left side.
Detail No. 1 - left paneling.


On the diagram, on the left side, there is also detail No. 20. This skin is used on cars with an automatic transmission with electronic control. Photo from the Internet.



By the way, I recently wrote here about the bracket that is placed on the left rear wing.


I thought it was for a regular phone. It turned out that I was wrong - it is precisely the ECU of the automatic transmission that is attached to it.
And skin No. 20 closes this bracket together with the ECU of the automatic transmission, which is mounted on the wing.


Thanks to the author of this photo for the information about this bracket.
I never found a photo of the installed skin General Discussion It would be interesting to see.

So, this bracket will definitely not be useful to me.


Although, I still did not understand how it is installed... Apparently, it is necessary to drill holes in the drain near the trunk seal, and in the bracket itself. Doubtful decision, because of discharge of water from the hatch into the thresholds :)


Right side.
Detail No. 2 - right paneling. As you can see, its lower part is cut above the level of the battery niche.


Part No. 10 - battery cover (51 47 1 884 346). After restyling, the cover differs in the edge on the back (51 47 1 971 556). I have it right before restyling - with a smooth rear edge. My cover was pretty scratched up so I decided to clean and paint it. By the way, he also tested the purchased "tornadore" and "chemistry".



I expected a better result.... probably it is better to clean carpets and seats. Therefore, I lightly sanded the covers. Now I am satisfied with the result.


Painted with a special primer and texture paint for plastic. I also liked the result.

Part No. 11 - cover attachment (51 47 1 923 983) for cars up to 1986 - you need not two, but three pieces - an error in the ETC. I had to order.
Parts CSS Examples and Articles are a similar mount, but for cars after 1986. Apparently, there are larger holes, so a plastic insert is used in the hole.
That is, either No. 11 or No. 12+No. 13 is used.
Part No. 14 - plastic protective shield of the battery terminal - prevents accidental closing of the key to the body when twisting the "positive" terminal of the battery.
Detail No. 15 - a clip for securing the shield to the rib of the wheel arch. By the way, the shield is still attached together with the casing of the battery cable with a plastic nut to the pin on the body. This nut is not shown in ETK at all.
Detail No. 16 - lining of the right niche of the trunk. Again, not accurate in ETK - this part is used on cars without a battery in the trunk. Otherwise, it interferes with installing the battery tray. At least I do.
Details No. 17 and No. 18 - it is not clear what it is and why it is needed. No. 17 is no longer available, and I bought No. 18 (51 47 1 872 821), but I never understood what it was for. Some strange hooks. Probably also an error in ETK. But if someone has them installed, please tell me.

Part E34/E28 Forums - an interesting part that I already mentioned when I wrote about the battery - a spacer (51 42 8 129 390)


This is a regular dense foam 90x35x50mm with double-sided tape on the bottom. As I said earlier, it serves as a support for the battery tray, and prevents the opening for the tray attachment from breaking under the weight of the battery. This is such a ridiculously simple factory solution! :) Just stick to the bottom of the niche.


We put the protective shield, fix it with a clip and a plastic nut together with the cable cover.


We put the battery and cover it with a lid. We fix the cover with two clips from below and one on the edge of the arch.


Now not a big addition. There is a special factory option - S428 Emergency stop sign / first aid kit with built-in storage box. But for some reason, the details of this option are not available in ETK. Since it is installed on the battery cover, I will write about it here. The photo above showed another box that I also painted. This is the same "box" - 72 60 1 929 409. I simply chose the size of the clip for fastening and inserting it into the hole.



Although, ETC does not find such a number...
But this option in the assembly - the original first aid kit and an emergency stop sign. I have talked about them before.


The box is placed on the battery cover and fixed with one clip.



As you can see, I haven't installed the side panels yet, as the wiring will still need to be laid behind them. Then I will install them, but for now they just lie in the trunk. As well as a first aid kit and an emergency stop sign.

Back panel.


Detail No. 3 - rear paneling. Just fits snugly between the lights and the plastic top bar.
Detail No. 8 - protective plastic bar.
Part Albums - bar clip (51 48 1 905 599), 4 pieces are required. These are probably the strangest clips I've come across. They need to be hammered in like nails with a sledgehammer! :) And as it seemed to me, it is better to first break off the pin from the clip, insert it again into the hole of the clip, and only then hammer it hard. I was afraid that I would break it, but I nailed it... Fastening for the ages! :)


Trunk partition.


Detail No. 4 - lining of the trunk partition. There is a regular one, with a cutout for a ski cover and for an additional tank. By the way, one of the reasons why I refused to install an additional tank is the lack of this cladding. And without it, the look will not be very aesthetic. My paneling had a lot of extra holes from self-tapping screws - at one time, the previous owner had fixed "music" and a home-made subwoofer there. Later I threw it all out, cut the hole for the subwoofer, and installed a ski cover.


I removed the holes and drilled two additional ones :) The fact is that according to the ETK, this trim is attached with six clips Members Rides (51 48 1 884 779), and it had only four holes for clips from the factory. And in the photo on the Internet, everyone also has four. But six holes are provided on the body. So, I decided to put in six clips, so I made two more holes at the bottom near the hatch for the cover.


Part No. 5 is probably a large metal plug for the hole for the ski cover, in cars where it is not installed.
Parts Special and Visitor Messages are not used.

Next will be about the lower and upper skins.

[The_Glory]

Collection_39. ETK_41_Body (rear door locks)

We continue the ETK_41 section Body

Now the back door.

Rear door - hinge/door stop




There are two types of rear doors (#1) - before 1988 and after 1988. The main difference is in the loops (No. 2 and No. 3). Until 1985, the hinges were not removable, but welded to the body. Therefore, when they wear out, there are certain difficulties with their repair. After 1985, the hinges are detachable, and you can order a repair kit for them (41 51 1 922 737).
But without hinges, the doors themselves are interchangeable. Mine is an 84 body with welded hinges, but post 88 doors fit on them with no problem. Plates No. 5 and No. 7, 0.5 mm and 1 mm thick, are used to adjust the door in depth. The latter with a slot are more convenient - they can be placed without completely removing the door from the hinge. By the way, earlier I already mentioned the holes in the door jambs of the body - through them it is also convenient to adjust the doors in the closed position. And in general, hinges after 85 are much more convenient to adjust. But, we have what we have. The rear door is attached to the upper hinge with ordinary M8 nuts (No. 6), and to the lower hinge with self-locking M8 nuts (No. 8), 2 pieces each, for each door. This is probably due to the different construction of the upper and lower loops. Non-removable insert plates (No. 15) with M8 pins (No. 16) are provided for fastening in the door.

I'm not exactly sure about the difference between the rear doors in fixing the window regulators, but logically it should be similar to the front... Correct me, who knows for sure. But in ETK there are also two types of rear electric lifts. Depending on the type of elevators, the glass guides and the glass itself differ. But I will write about it in the relevant sections.
Detail Groups - door opening limiter. Mine were worn out so I replaced them all. The rear one is the same on the left and right side, but differs from the front door limiter. The rear limiter is stamped with the marking "H" (from the German "hintere"). It is important not to confuse them, otherwise they will cling to the edge of the opening in the body and gradually tear it apart. This is from my own experience - I used to have a rear one in front, as it turned out... It is attached to the door with two M6 bolts (#9). On the body, it is fixed in a special loop with pin #10 and staple #11. The connection is closed with a rubber seal No. 12.


After the final adjustment of the doors according to the gaps, I plan to paint the nuts, as it was from the factory.
After installation, it should be lubricated from the middle, for smoother operation. Bottom loop with grooves - with self-locking nuts.


Part No. 13 and No. 14 are plugs. They are duplicated in another section, so I will write about them there later.

Rear door locking system




The photo shows the details on the right front door. On the left - similarly.
Detail #10 - the internal door handles differ on the left and right sides. The front and back are the same on one side.
Detail No. 9 - decorative handle frame. It is placed on top of the door panel. Therefore, I will put them later. All four are the same.
Detail No. 7 - a rod connecting the handle to the door lock. Same on both sides.
Detail No. 8 - the tip of the thrust. Inserts into the draw holes in the handle and lock. I did not take them out so as not to break them, because they are quite fragile.


Part No. 12 and No. 11 - self-tapping screw and insert plate. Two for each handle.
Detail No. 13 - anti-squeak gasket under the handle body.
Detail No. 14 - traction clip. One on each side.

Details #1-6 - mechanism of the external handle. Will be installed a little later, after painting the handles.

Rear door locking system




Detail Home - the door lock differs on the left and right sides. It is attached to the door with three special M6 bolts (#2).
Detail No. 7 - the tip of the thrust. It is inserted into the holes for traction in the lock. Three pieces for each lock.
Detail No. 13, No. 14 - rods connecting the door lock button with the lock. No. 13 differs on the left and right sides, No. 14 is the same.
Detail No. 11 - a decorative traction button.
Part No. 6 - the lever of the rods, they differ on the left and right sides.
Part No. 9 and No. 10 - a special bolt and lock nut for fastening lever No. 11.
Detail No. 8 - traction clip. One on each side.
Detail No. 3 - door lock latch. It differs before restyling and after restyling. But they are interchangeable. I replaced it with restyling ones. I think they hold the lock better. They are the same for all doors. If they are heavily worn, the left and right can be rearranged. It is attached to the body with two special bolts M8 (#4). For fastening in the rear arches of the body, special built-in parts are provided.
Part No. 5 - sealing washer made of thin rubber.
Detail No. 12 - a plate with a thickness of 2 mm for adjusting the position of the latch.

So, we start putting everything together.


It is necessary to connect the drive rod of the central lock to the lock. I wrote about it last time.


We attach the rods to the lever - exactly as shown in the photo. Symmetrically on the other side. I put a protective tube on the button pull, just in case, so as not to scratch the paint. We do not attach them to the lock yet, because they will interfere with its installation.


Then we connect the pull of the inner handle to the other lever of the lock.


Lubricate the entire lock well with grease for door locks, and the lock is ready for installation.
By the way, it is important to connect all the rods exactly as shown in the photo above. Otherwise, they will interfere with each other or cling to the door.

We put the lock in the door and screw it.


Then we insert the lock nut into the door and screw the lever with the rods. We insert the rod into the hole and fix it in the lock with a straight hook.


The pulls should be located exactly like this.


At first, I was able to put them incorrectly :) But it sometimes did not fit in, sometimes it clung to the door. Therefore, it is necessary to put it exactly like that, and in no other way.
Next, we connect the drive of the central lock to its pull, and screw it to the door.


Using the door lock button, we check whether the drive moves freely to its extreme positions, adjust it and fix it in this position.


Next, we attach the internal door handle to the rod, and screw it through the gasket to the door. We also check whether it moves freely to its extreme positions, adjust it and fix it in this position.


The pull of the handle and the pull of the button are additionally fixed each to the door with a clip.


The locks are installed.
We check whether they work correctly. Let's not forget about the locking lever of the rear inner door handles - "child lock".
Located on the end of the door above the lock.


The locks are also installed.


The door now closes, but it is necessary to adjust it even better and more precisely according to the locks and gaps.


I will do this when the doors are fully assembled - with glass, electric lifts, moldings, etc. In the meantime, you still need to put all the "shadow line" moldings in order, paint the outer handles, clean the seals, and remove the tint from the glass. A lot of work...

[The_Glory]

v nice ! keep the updates coming ! lots of little stuff to put in , the amount of time it takes to take photos and organize its way more than actual working

Thanks.
Yes, indeed, the photo and text take a lot of time, but I also like to do it )

[The_Glory]

Assembly_38. ETK_41_Body (front door locks)

We continue the ETK_41 section Body

I replaced all four doors. My old door is still assembled under the wall in the garage. Now it is necessary to rearrange everything from them to new doors.
I start with the front door.
The cores of the locks still need to be reworked under one key, the outer handles need to be painted - so more on that later. And for now about hinges, limiters, locks and internal handles.
Door Pd, hinges/door limiter




The front door (#1) is of two types - before 1988 and after 1988. The main difference is in the loops (No. 3 and No. 11). Until 1985, the hinges were not removable, but welded to the body. Therefore, when they wear out, there are certain difficulties with their repair. After 1985, the hinges are detachable, and you can order repair kit No. 18 (41 51 1 922 737) for them.
But without hinges, the doors themselves are interchangeable. Mine is an 84 body with welded hinges, but post 88 doors fit on them with no problem. Plates No. 6 and No. 14, 0.5 mm and 1 mm thick, are used to adjust the door in depth. The latter with a slot are more convenient - they can be placed without completely removing the door from the hinge. By the way, earlier I already mentioned the holes in the door jambs of the body - through them it is also convenient to adjust the doors in the closed position. And in general, hinges after 85 are much more convenient to adjust. But, we have what we have. The doors are fastened with self-locking nuts M8 (#7) 4 pieces for each door. Non-removable insert plates (No. 19) with M8 pins (No. 20) are provided for fastening in the door.
Detail Forum - convertible doors - they are completely different.
The second significant difference between the doors is the fastening of the window regulators. Until 1988, only cable lifts were installed on the doors. Cable or lever lifts were installed on the doors after 1988, so they have holes for attaching both types of lifts. Depending on the type of elevators, the glass guides and the glass itself differ. But I will write about it in the relevant sections.
Detail Groups - door opening limiter. Mine were worn out so I replaced them all. The front one is the same on the left and right side, but differs from the limiter of the rear door. It is attached to the door with two M6 bolts (#5). On the body, it is fixed in a special loop with pin Private Messages and staple Albums The connection is closed with rubber seal No. 10.


After the final adjustment of the doors according to the gaps, I plan to paint the nuts, as it was from the factory.
Detail No. 12 - a rubber insert for wiring electric mirrors.


Detail No. 13 - I don't quite understand what it is... maybe it's an error in ETK again. Somewhere it was written that this is a convertible part, but I'm not sure about that. Although, I did not meet her on sedans. So I don't have it either.
Detail No. 15 - a stiffening rib in the lower part of the front door.


It is riveted to the door with two rivets No. 17, through the seal No. 16. There was no point in removing it.



Door drive/door lock Pd




The photo shows the details on the right front door. On the left - similarly.
Detail Albums - the internal door handles (#1 and #2) differ on the left and right sides. The front and back are the same on one side.
Detail No. 3 - decorative handle frame. It is placed on top of the door panel. Therefore, I will put them later.
Detail No. 4 - a rod connecting the handle to the door lock. Same on both sides.
Detail No. 5 - the tip of the traction. Inserts into the draw holes in the handle and lock. I did not take them out so as not to break them, because they are quite fragile.


Part No. 6 and No. 7 - self-tapping screw and insert plate. Two for each handle.
Detail No. 8 - anti-squeal gasket under the handle body.
Detail No. 10 - traction clip. One on each side.

Door lock Pd




Detail Home - the door lock differs on the left and right sides. It is attached to the door with three special bolts M6 (#3).
Detail No. 7 - the tip of the thrust. It is inserted into the holes for traction in the lock. Three pieces for each lock. Although, there are 4 holes for rods on the locks, but one is not used.
Part No. 15 is a rod connecting the door lock button to the lock. They differ on the left and right sides.
Detail No. 6 - a decorative traction button.
Detail No. 2 - door lock latch. It differs before restyling and after restyling. But they are interchangeable. I replaced it with restyling ones. I think they hold the lock better. They are the same for all doors. If they are heavily worn, the left and right can be rearranged. It is attached to the body with two special bolts M8 (#4). Special insert parts #11 are used for mounting in the body struts.
Part No. 13 is a sealing washer made of thin rubber.
Detail No. 14 - a plate with a thickness of 0.5 mm for adjusting the position of the latch.
Parts #5, #8-10, ##12 are not used.

So, we start putting everything together. In addition to the lever of the door button No. 15, it is necessary to connect the lever of the central lock drive to the lock. I wrote about it last time.


Then we connect the pull of the inner handle to the other lever of the lock.


The upper lever of the lock with the tip for traction is not used.
Lubricate the entire lock well with grease for door locks, and the lock is ready for installation.
By the way, it is important to connect all the rods exactly as shown in the photo above. Otherwise, they will interfere with each other or cling to the door.
On the left (driver's) lock, this can be done only by opening a special fastener on the plastic cover. They opened it, connected the traction.


They closed the fastener.


We put the lock in the door and screw it.


Next, we connect the drive of the central lock to its pull, and screw it to the door. Using the door lock button, we check whether the drive moves freely to its extreme positions, adjust it and fix it in this position.
Next, we attach the internal door handle to the rod, and screw it through the gasket to the door. We also check whether it moves freely to its extreme positions, adjust it and fix it in this position.


The pull of the handle is additionally fixed to the door with a clip. By the way, the new clips are white instead of black and have a better design than the old ones.


The locks are installed.


The locks are also installed.


The door now closes, but it is necessary to adjust it even better and more precisely according to the locks and gaps. I will do this when the doors are fully assembled - with glass, electric lifts, moldings, etc. In the meantime, you still need to put all the "shadow line" moldings in order, paint the external handles, go through the cores of the locks, clean the seals, and remove the tint from the glass. A lot of work...

[QuiqueUy]

v nice ! keep the updates coming ! lots of little stuff to put in , the amount of time it takes to take photos and organize its way more than actual working