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  • bangn
    replied
    40 degree days have backed off a bit so had a chance to do this today. Took 6 hours which included masking everything up, vacuming as I went to prevent galling and marking the bores. Got the protrusion and spacing bang on which I'm very happy with seeing it was my first go at oringing a block. Def not a quick job in situ. Best thing is the oring grooves fell exactly where the marks were in the block left from the back of the cutring so that worked out well.

    Hopefully does a better job at sealing than the cut ring gasket that shat itself after an hours use.

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  • bangn
    replied
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    The quality of improved racings products are exceptional, highly recommended!

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  • bangn
    replied
    So car is getting a run in and tune on the dyno in a couple of weeks. Will only be on gate pressure whilst its got running in oil in it. Once ive put some road hours to break the engine in a bit further I will take it back for a power tune I would say Early Feb.

    Sync issue so far seems to be resolved with the tone wheel reposition so fingers crossed it stays that way, hard to confirm much when I cant run it for a long period.

    Ive decided to re-do the oil filter relocation setup as I would like to incorporate an engine oil cooler. I found with the current setup the exhaust manifold is pretty close to the in/out fittings on the Derale relocation block and feel I am taking on some excess engine oil temps due to this. The Derale block is chunky and then with an added NPT fitting plus 90 degree fitting it makes the stack height excessive. So may as well do what I can now to add some more engine protection. I'm sure on a power run the EOC will be beneficial to the tuner in maintaining good oil pressure. NPT fittings to me also just look yuck with excess thread hanging out.


    So getting rid of the Derale gear and going with improved racing, must say I was really impressed with their website and ability to customize their products to your application, they run ORB fittings which is great and should help free up some room
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    Oil filter housing with thermostat. I have picked the 215f version as the vehicle is a street car.

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    Inline block so I can relocate the oil pressure sensor as well as incorporate an oil temp sensor
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    KOYO 19 row cooler, the SETRAB cooler nearly won selection but KOYO run ORB fittings so no brainer there.
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  • bangn
    replied
    Started today, its been a busy week. Cam is broken in and first oil change out was very clean exception to the slight shimmer under light, no nasty chunks in the filter. Its very peppy and surprisingly quiet on the valvetrain front. I thought the steel rockers would of been louder but its the quietest its ever been. Very smooth too.

    Only issue I have is home sensor not staying in full sync and began to drop out after about 10 minutes, so Il need to reposition the cam tone wheel as its too close to the crank sensor event.

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  • bangn
    replied
    Finally got this thing off the engine stand. Spent a bit of time weighing the valvetrain to equalize the weights in the top end, Its pretty surprising when you buy new parts how much their weights can vary. Graph below is the final weight of each assembled valve assembly. Pretty sure its going to be smooth in that top end now. Scary to think if this wasn't done its possible to get a valve assembly to weigh 266 grams instead of 263.
    INTAKE Valve Spring Outer Spring Inner Top Retainer R/arm with adj Total - g
    1 72.17 42.88 17.76 15.55 115.64 264
    2 72.6 43.73 17.37 15.26 113.45 262.41
    3 72.44 42.98 17.74 15.53 114.61 263.3
    4 72.2 43.3 17.56 15.34 115.59 263.99
    5 72.43 43.44 17.38 15.29 115.49 264.03
    6 72.47 43.17 17.6 15.5 114.27 263.01
    EXHAUST Valve Spring Outer Spring Inner Top Retainer R/arm with adj Total - g
    1 70.77 43.19 17.55 15.5 116.29 263.3
    2 70.58 43.16 17.67 15.43 116.41 263.25
    3 70.78 42.83 17.94 15.5 116.15 263.2
    4 71 43.16 17.7 15.4 116.07 263.33
    5 71.49 43.08 17.73 15.41 116 263.71
    6 71.53 42.84 17.81 15.58 115.96 263.71
    ​​

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    Last edited by bangn; 12-23-2023, 06:25 AM.

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  • bangn
    replied

    So received the head back and for once things went pretty well with the headshop I picked, never used them before so was a bit of a gamble like always. light face performed, multiangle seat job for the +1mm I&E, guides were pretty worn so k liners were used.

    However I did hit a snag once I got home lol, I started weighing all the valve train components to start balancing out the top, I got to 8 valve springs and found the company I used for the Schrick products accidently short shipped me.
    so I reached out a few weeks of delivery and they rectified the issue without a fuss and shipped out the missing ones with DHL. So I should have in a couple of days. BAR-TEK are great and I wouldn't hesitate using them again. Mistakes happen.

    so in the meantime I did PTV clearance, found I have a fair bit more than I thought id have with the 1mm oversize valves, I didn't stuff with the ports too much as they're not the easiest things to improve without a lot of R&D, a flow bench and CNC machine
    So all I've done is delicately taken out casting lines/steps to aid velocity.

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    Last edited by bangn; 12-15-2023, 10:24 PM.

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  • bangn
    replied
    Its funny you should say that Varg, I said the same thing after I picked up the block to a friend of mine. The hobby is enjoyable until I ever have to outsource work, it seems to have gotten worse in the last five years. Companies are just not interested in delivering things in a reasonable time frame, do not communicate effectively (had a few ghosters) and seem to be either way too busy and/or lost their passion due to dealing with the ever increasing customer expectations. I have an M52 disassembled ready for a rebuild for another e30 and to be honest given the experience i've had I am tempted to just bottle brush it and do everything at home exception to facing the head. Things go fine when I have control.


    Originally posted by Panici View Post

    The 24v head I had skimmed and hot tanked came back with valves hung open because of crud on the seats. Glad I inspected closely.
    That's a pretty easy job in terms of machine shop work. I'd hate to see what they'd do to a bottom end.

    yep this is the exact issue, I swear they test the water and see what they can get away with in terms of doing the absolute minimum hoping the customer is uneducated enough to notice
    Last edited by bangn; 10-27-2023, 11:46 PM.

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  • varg
    replied
    Ouch, sorry to see. It is going to be a seriously cool engine though once it's together and making power. Not numbering anything is stupid, how hard is it to get a paint pen out and mark stuff? Seems a lot of people have been complaining about their local shops going downhill lately. The frustrations I've had with bad parts over the past few years has me wondering if this hobby is going to be more frustration than enjoyment for me in the future, was it always like this? I don't know. I couldn't afford to do fresh builds with new parts until the last few years and junkyard parts always just worked for me my whole life

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  • Panici
    replied
    Seems like it's becoming impossible to find a machine shop that does good work.

    The 24v head I had skimmed and hot tanked came back with valves hung open because of crud on the seats. Glad I inspected closely.
    That's a pretty easy job in terms of machine shop work. I'd hate to see what they'd do to a bottom end.

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  • bangn
    replied
    So its been a hot minute since the last post. To be honest things have not been smooth sailing.

    I researched a machinist, met the guy first and had a good conversation about my project. Really easy to speak to and felt confident in handing over the job. Told me worst case scenario would take three to four weeks
    ​​​​​. cool im ok with that.

    well it took 8 weeks. Gave me various dates he failed to deliver on and refused to communicate until I got pissed off. My crankshaft was sent to two other businesses for ballancing and grinding that I didnt know about.

    So i get it home and start weighing my individually balanced parts. Nothings numbered. How do I know what rod goes with what pin? What piston goes on what rod? What piston goes in what pot? I weighed the pistons and they are essentially balanced to 1g tollerance instead of .10g. The pins hadnt been touched. In the end I had to weigh every component and swap round parts until my piston/rod assemblies were even right down to the circlips. The crank was balanced well but baffles me why would you go to all that effort to do an entire rotating assembly and not record final weights or number anything.

    So i decided fuck it, measure it up for assembly.
    Piston to bore is perfect, big ends perfect, did a great job of the Intermediate shaft bearings. Mains measure up with 3.5 thou of oil clearance. What the f.

    Call the machinist and I find out he didnt measure the tunnel with a bearing in it as thats not the industry standard. Fantastic. So i took the block somewhere else to get a tiny amount shaved off the main caps and the tunnel line honed to get it back where it needs to be.

    so that took another 4 weeks and is now up to 3k in machining/ballancing costs just for the bottom end.

    ​​​​​Very stressful but can say now everything is now correct and clearances and component weight assemblies are spot on. This is why you should always check machine work. Every time.

    ​​​now the next hurdle. The top end!


    ​​​​
    Attached Files
    Last edited by bangn; 10-21-2023, 07:47 AM.

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  • bangn
    replied
    I picked them up from bimmerheads but they said the schrick dual springs are the go

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  • hasa
    replied
    I like the bigger pad design. Hoping of course that the geometry is right.

    Did KM Cams give any recommendations about spring rates for these? Obviously valve train inertia is somewhat higher than with aluminium rockers.

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  • bangn
    replied
    Yep, Vac Rocker locks. Basically just giving the rocker stability and stopping the chance of it slipping off.

    So the steel rockers arrived, I put a rocker shaft in it and ran a 6mm stem through the adjuster hole onto both rockers to gauge how different they were in terms of rocker ratio/lift changes
    Basically what I found is the centre of the pad is the same height and position as oem. KM Pad is a bit wider and a bit longer. I'm still going to measure them up in the head
    so ive got some real data but I think any difference if any will be comparable to wear. At this point it seems the pad arc is comparable to OEM. Here's hoping the steel clamps the eccentric adjuster
    with enough side load they don't move.

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  • e30davie
    replied
    Look at all these shiny parts. excuse my ignorance what is that red VAC thing? stops the rockers from moving side to side?

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  • bangn
    replied
    So head gasket arrived on a rocket ship, expecting rocker arms and intermediate shaft bearings to arrive in the next day or two. Then should be able to drop the bottom end off to the machinist.

    Athena 2mm Cutring gasket, the rings are smooth for block side and have three cutting grooves for the head. Hopefully have some success with this as feel like a bit of a Guinee pig

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