Turbo 325
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i probably would of gone a step down on the rear housing if I was keeping it the same power, the dip there I believe is boost assist winding back as it pulls to 22psi initially, the torque does drop off a bit on paper. Cant feel it in the car tho -
I suppose on an m20 you are limited by ~6300 or so. So when you change gears you drop the rpm quite low and as you say potentially out of the fast spooling area of the turbo.
In hindsight would you have gone for a smaller turbo and driven it harder?
also noticed quite a dip on your curve at 4750, any ideas whats the cause?
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It did, although a bit unbalanced to be honest but I cant expect too much from that old motor. First gear started to build boost and didnt really ever get too crazy, second gear instantly near on made you change lanes and accelerated quite aggressively to limiter. Issue I found was when it went into third. It really needed a bit more RPM/Air to keep that turbo going to maintain continuity into third . I mean sometimes you could get a pretty wild ride from second to third if conditions were right, but most of the time the boost had to build again. I dont want to beat on the gearbox THAT MUCH.
It was just lacking air and didnt feel right.. pretty confident the new engine will fix this issue.
dyno below - the 216 hp @7psi is on my nanny switch incase I need to drop it off for a wheel alignment or something.
Last edited by bangn; 05-11-2023, 06:01 AM.Leave a comment:
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Thankyou, so the kit was put together by a bm specialist workshop here in Aus "brintech customs" https://www.brintechcustoms.com.au/a...lete-Brake-Kit for ref - couldn't fault the kit at all, very high quality brackets, hardware and lines
the calipers were sized to work with the factory booster and master. Just has a full set of braided lines inc up under the fuel tank. Pedal feel is better than factory and bite pretty hard with a bit more extra foot pressure. Very controllable if you show people how hard it stops. The car felt so much more like a package when I drove it the first time, It stops as well as it goes. Pedal isn't like standing on a block of wood like brembos are, still has a natural bite point driving around until you push a bit harder and you get reminded.
I purchased this kit in particular as it complies with engineering standards which will make things a lot nicer if the need ever arises to get them passed by my states transport authority. I think it took longer to choose the colour combo I wanted than to fit them, needed to tie in with the car. Black calipers just looked dull.
Yeh the whole car was stripped to a bare shell, has a new sunroof and cartridge frame under the roof skin, new plenum panel under screen, all rust was taken out of it.
Last edited by bangn; 05-11-2023, 06:06 AM.Leave a comment:
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Love the turbo decals on the outside, very 80s.
Looks like a pretty clean setup, glad you colourmatched the engine bay.
What's your full brake setup to go with the bigger rotors and calipers? Master/booster/prop valve?
How does it feel compared to stock?Leave a comment:
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Very nice. good to see a proper ECU and setup running it. Must go like a rocket.Leave a comment:
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picture of the things that make it stop
Wilwood 6pot fronts and 4 pot rears
Ally hat rotors
disassembled, custom powder coated with clear and reassembled to match the gold pinstripes.
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Turbo 325
Hey from Aus,
I considered updating my last build thread but since the demise of photobucket turning it into mush I figured may as well make a newy.
Its been a while and this cars been hiding more than its been out. Basic history; I've owned this car a smidge over 10 years. It WAS bronzit, auto, tired, and its had a few different looks
over the years. I think I've said this cars finished twice now.. but then I get an idea and well...it snowballs into the below
So its one of those square body German VLs with a better engine. Car was built at home exception to colour and clear, intercooler piping (altho I designed the system) and tuning the haltech elite 2000
in the photo above its still an unopened M20b25 with head studs and nothing more.. made 350rwhp on a garret GTX 3071R @ 18psi with a flame throwing gate. Has all the engine monitoring fruit
to make the tune as reliable as possible, wideband, knock sensor, full seq ign and injection, intake, water, oil sensors ect.. All of which can be monitored by the CAN gauge in the vehicle on the fly.
It boogied.. and it didn't die. Which is weird when you consider that engine did 340k KMS and I bolted on the one thing that should of turned it into a burning sausage.
One night at 11pm I was browsing ebay and I accidently purchased a small counterweight crank that had stroking abilities from Lithuania.. yep Lithuania and you're right the freight was a bit rude lol
TBH I expected to get a picture of a crank in a big box, but seeing I actually got one I decided then I guess I'm building an engine.
So basically building what will be close to a 2.9 with a very strong bottom and top end so I can jam as much fun into it as possible. I really just need to finalise bearings and some HD rocker arms and il be ready to start with machine work.
Aiming for around 25-28psi but to be honest if the power gets to 480rwhp that's probably where I will draw the line, the car was pretty darn hairy at 350rw and really I think only another 100hp is needed to make me question my sanity in that car.
so yes enjoy carLast edited by bangn; 05-08-2023, 06:35 AM.Tags: None

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