Thanks for the kind words and encouragement :)
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'87 Vert For Her
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I understand now why it's called the "bitch" tube. Got everything torn apart and figured I would repaint the intake manifold and valve cover. Completed the valve adjustment and new TPS installation/adjustment. I also picked up a "plug and play" AFM to see if that helps with some of the off-idle hesitation. Pulled the old plugs and they were way above .027" and several wires had corrosion on the contacts. I am excited to get everything put back together again soon and hope the car is running great.
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This is a rebuilt AFM from Rock Auto (listed as plug and play, versus some of the others). I followed an 'Off idle hesitation' thread on another forum where the OP tried all of the usual suspects (plugs, wires, distro cap, rotor, O2 sensor, injectors, vac leaks, etc etc) to no avail and then installed this same AFM and it resolved his issues. I'm not overly optimistic but for the price seemed worth it. I adjusted mine but it didn't seem to help. I'll address additional items if my hesitation doesn't resolve but thought I would start here.
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After returning from our fireworks reprieve in the mountains, I finished up a bunch of mechanical stuff and got the engine bay back together. I broke and subsequently repaired a valve cover stud, which was a fun setback. I was amazed at the nasty, brown gas pouring out of the old fuel filter and glad I replaced it. Interestingly, it had started making a whining noise recently. The new front diving board plastics and 3d printed plate filler look great, despite the bumper being banged up and cracked. I'm waiting on a few more items to be delivered (hopefully tomorrow) and should have it back on the road soon!
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I completed the mechanical work yesterday, and I must say, the condition of the transmission fluid was quite unpleasant. For those who might be curious, performing a pan drop and filter change required 4.5 quarts of fluid for the transmission. Fortunately, I have an extra 3 quarts, so I'm considering doing a simple drain and fill after driving a few hundred miles to help dilute any remaining fluid in the system.
Once I had everything reassembled, the car would not start, which I attributed to the new fuel filter. To resolve this, I primed the fuel lines by jumping the fuel relay until I heard the new FPR open up and fuel flowing through the lines. Despite these efforts, the car still wouldn't start. However, after swapping the plugs of the CPS and Spark Plug Induction sensor, it fired right up. I find it frustrating that BMW placed two identical plugs right next to each other.
Next, I proceeded to replace the headlight switch, only to discover that fuse 23 was still blowing. Frustrated, I decided to reinstall the old headlight switch and return the new one, considering its significant cost. As I reached for the old switch on the workbench, I realized it was actually the new one. In my tired state, I had unintentionally reinstalled the old headlight switch. So, I installed the new switch, which resolved the issue of fuse 23 blowing. Needless to say, I'm a happy camper.
Finally, I got the new ignition lock installed without a hitch, so I won’t have to worry about either of us being stranded somewhere like last time.
Although I haven't had the opportunity to drive the car yet, I can already sense a considerable improvement in the off-idle hesitation. I’m stoked to have completed the work just in time for my wife's return from her work trip tomorrow, so she can drive and enjoy.
Next up I need to get parts for the Audio system ordered and installed and replace these god forsaken headlights and the PO's crappy wiring of them.
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This weekend, I was thrilled to take the car out for some errands around town. Overall it is running fantastic! Unfortunately, after filling up with gas I was smelling raw fuel. Upon further inspection, I found fuel leaking from the top of the fuel tank sending unit. I removed the 4 nuts holding the sending unit in place and removed the sending unit. I found 2 gasket seals present on the metal shaft. 1 gasket located in the groove of the top flange, where it is supposed to be and in good condition. A 2nd (mangled/torn gasket) in the middle of the sending unit metal shaft, which was getting pinched between the top flange and gas tank. I can't tell if this 2nd gasket is supposed to be present, or if one of the PO's installed a new gasket without removing the old one. Per RealOEM, it appears there is gasket located at the bottom of the sending unit. Maybe it became dislodged and worked it's way up the shaft?
Specifically, is # 12 in the following image the same as the gasket located at the top of the shaft below the top flange (out of sight per red arrow), which comes installed on new sending units?
Any help greatly appreciated!
*edit - it appears, according to this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3_VC-BH7zk&t=2s there is only 1 gasket seal present at the top of the flange. I don't know what in the world one of the PO's was doing installing a 2nd gasket seal, not to mention those ridiculously stupid, yellow tab hose clamps I'm finding all over (pictured below). People are brain dead.
Last edited by m2d2; 07-11-2023, 09:55 AM.
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I suggested to my wife today she should take the e30 to her appointment, but she was unable to do so because my nephew was doing car work in the garage and had the project car parked in the way. She opted to take her other vehicle instead, which is a good thing (more on this...) In the meantime, I spent a few minutes installing a new coolant expansion tank and was feeling so great about how well the engine bay was looking. Fast forward to tonight, while positioning the car at the 2-post lift for a brake job, I smelled fuel (not a rare occurrence what with the recent fuel level sender gasket issue and recently having disconnected/reconnected fuel lines while removing the intake manifold cover and valve cover to complete some mechanical work, not the least of which involved replacing the FPR).
Anyways, I got out of the car to inspect the raw fuel smell and check the fuel hoses. No obvious leaks. Suddenly, and while I was bent over the engine bay, I heard a sort of 'pop' - 'poof' sound and looked up to flames igniting directly above my FPR. It was like excess pressure in the fuel line (air maybe?) blew out the oring, and with it, fuel. I was amazing at how quickly it happened. I immediately turned off the car and grabbed the fire extinguisher off of my work bench to put out the fire. The extinguisher worked surprisingly fast and well (I have never used one). I probably went overkill but didn't want to take any chances. All this to say, I strongly believe this fire would have happened while my wife had the car across town had she taken the car out earlier, which likely would have resulted in a total loss since she would have had no way to put out the flames.
After getting everything cleaned up in the engine bay, I inspected and removed the seared wire loom around the # 6 fuel injector, and both water temp sensors. Miraculously, nothing besides the wire loom was damaged, not even the freshly painted intake manifold or valve cover. I noticed a significant amount of fire suppressant agent stuck to the fuel rail directly below the FPR (like it was sticking to a wet surface) compared to the other areas nearby. I removed the FPR and found that the supplied o-ring in this aftermarket FPR did not fit/seal correctly into the fuel rail, evident by a pinched area. I recall while installing the FPR that it didn't feel as though it was seating as far as it should, but assumed the bolts on either side would pull it down into position. And, after installing, there were no leaks. I've been driving the car quite a bit. It must have just started happening.
Lesson learned, do not use aftermarket parts for any sensors or critical components. I'll be purchasing a few fire extinguishers tomorrow for the garage and trunk of the e30. Very scary but just glad everything turned out OK, as things could have been so incredibly worse. I'm hoping the FPR o-ring was in fact the issue and there isn't a separate issue somewhere causing excessive rail/FPR pressure, which finally blew out the o-ring.
I'll admit I'm a bit rattled and still coming down from the adrenaline rush :/
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Good that you were there to catch the fire!
"do not use aftermarket parts for any sensors or critical components."
Truth. Years ago I rebuilt a BMW R/75 flat twin for a friend who insisted on using cheaper parts, and we ended up having to pull the transmission to replace a bad o-ring on an oil pump that wouldn't allow the engine to hold oil pressure when hot.
He saved less than $2.00Last edited by bmwtool; 07-15-2023, 02:51 PM.
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Thanks bmwtool! I'm so glad I was!
Few small updates from tonight... New floormats from Tims Classic Parts and a rear/right seatbelt cover to hide the bare metal frame. I had to purchase an entire seatbelt assembly to get this cover since the covers for the passenger side are non-existent by themselves. I noticed it has a small crack in it, that isn't visible, but hopefully it will hold up.
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I made more progress on the sound deadening before I ran out... more of that on the way. In the meantime, I got the radio installed and color changed to match factory colors. To my surprise, my custom ported sub enclosure from IG: e30dreamin showed up and I couldn't be more impressed. The fitment is perfect and overall quality is nothing short of amazing. Just absolutely outstanding work all around. This dude is a genius and I am so thankful for not only his top notch work, but his support and help along the way. I highly recommend him for anyone looking to do a custom sub enclosure!!
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The audio install is finally wrapping up. I have a bit more work to do in the trunk but the rest of the car is together and the system sounds great. If I had to guess I'd say I have 35-40 hours into the install. Everything is so tedious and it's a matter of overcoming one hurdle after another, from little things like the speaker mounting holes not lining up with the factor mounting locations to routing wires where there are no existing cable ties, etc etc. Anyways, my expectations were low for the 5.25's, but I guess investing a bit more $ into better speakers paid off because it sounds fantastic. I may add some 6.5's in the aftermarket door card pods or a bit more mid-bass, but that's a future project for another day. Overall, the trunk is looking pretty clean and now I just need to add the side panels and put it back together. I'm having e30dreamin fab me up a nice wood deck to go in front of the sub enclosure.
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Over the past few months, I've completed several projects on my E30. Firstly, I opened up the firewall to allow more bass into the cabin. After that, I reassembled the trunk carpets. My attention then turned to the taillights, where I noticed the passenger side had been replaced recently, while the driver's side displayed significant wear and multiple cracks.
To address this issue, I reached out to e30taillights via Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/e30taillights/), who built a custom set for me. It's worth noting that he's currently no longer producing early model taillights, at least for the time being.
Additionally, I discovered that my control board wasn't functioning correctly. I entrusted it to a local repair shop, where they identified a possible issue and expressed confidence in their ability to repair it. Hopefully, I'll have it back in working order soon.
Finally, my new wheels arrived yesterday so I had them mounted. Specs are 16x8 et20 on 205/50 tires. I think the size is pretty great and doesn't rub/require spacers. My next project will be replacing the headlights. In the meantime, I'm thoroughly enjoying driving the car and think it looks great.
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