Slow and Proud - My 85' 318i

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  • BadDays
    Member
    • Dec 2024
    • 54

    #16
    So it took me two days to essentially figure out the overheating issues were caused by a worn out water pump and that I didn't flush the coolant enough, I will be flushing out the store bought coolant in favor of OEM coolant and replacing the thermostat. I might need to keep the old thermostat just in case the new one turns out to be faulty, In the meantime I also had a look in the valve train to see why my timing chain is rattling everytime i start the car. Click image for larger version

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    Every component in here looks like it has normal wear and tear but the rockers are fine and there isn't anything loose. I shined a light down the timing chain and saw that the tensioner was well worn-out at this point. It didn't help that the engine wasn't ran for a month thanks to the ecu fiasco.
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    It was like 6am when i took these photos, However i ordered new gaskets and a tensioner kit plus other stuff so that will be on it's way.

    Here's the part numbers for the window crank and it's components:
    Window crank is 51321904507
    Window crank washer is 51322460567
    Window crank cover is 51321906497
    ​The screw for the crank is a T25 Bolt that screws in the middle.

    I'll update with a guide on replacing the tensioner once it gets here. Cheers!
    Attached Files

    Comment

    • Panici
      Moderator
      • Dec 2009
      • 2311

      #17
      Sorry to read about the crash. Perhaps take it as a lesson in finding the limits on public roads.
      IMO you should not be driving hard enough to trigger the ABS (even if equipped). Need to leave margin for error and road conditions on public streets.


      Good progress so far with the restoration.
      Nice manual window conversion, personally I'd just leave it like that in the name of lightness!

      '87 BMW E30 325is Turbo

      '99 BMW E36 M3 - - - '98 BMW E36 328i

      Comment

      • BadDays
        Member
        • Dec 2024
        • 54

        #18
        Thank you! Since the crash, I've learnt to take it slow with my driving on public roads and stay on high alert for trouble, I do want to take the car to some type of track event to really get to know my handling but in the name of safety, I'd rather drive like a grandma on public roads. There's a lot of dumb drivers out there so it's important to be safe (especially since i don't have airbags or any traction control.)

        BTW I'll write a manual window conversion guide here since people might need this infomation for the future
        Tools Required: 10 Millimeter Socket Wrench
        T25 Torx Bit with screwdriver.
        Door Clip Removal Tool.


        First Step: You start by removing the door handle trim which slides out and then unscrewing the plastic knob that is on the door lock.

        Second Step: Begin by removing the armrest which has three screws, Two on the bottom and one hidden behind a trim piece on the armrest.

        Third Step: Slide the armrest out, Begin removing the door panel by using a door clip removal tool, Go around the door panel until all of the clips have been popped off and then carefully remove the door panel.

        Fourth Step: Carefully remove the vapor barrier and then go to the window motor and undo three 10 Millimeter Bolts holding it in, Undo the connection to the wiring in the door for the power window. Next find the 10 Millimeter bolts holding the window regulator and undo those until you have loosened the regulator but don't remove it yet.

        Fifth Step: You will need to manually unwind the windows down to remove the glass which is a T25 torx screw. Use a screwdriver for this step. After unwinding the windows (it will be a pain in the ass if the motor is seized) Remove the metal clips holding in the silver trim and then carefully slide the window out and place it on a soft surface, I recommend using a blanket so you aren't scratching the glass.

        Sixth Step: get all of those bolts out of the regulator that are connected to the door, You will need to save these bolts somewhere. You have to slide the regulator out of the door from the bottom which will be the hole in the bottom right or left (Depending on the door). Take your time with this, Don’t rush it and carefully get that sucker out so once you're done removing it, set it somewhere and get your crank window regulator ready.

        Seventh Step: Put in the crank window regulator as you did with the power window, Get it in the door and line it up with the bolt holes in the door, Then it's a matter of Screwing one bolt at a time until it's properly seated in the door itself. Get the glass ready (clean it if you wish) and then locate the wheel in the regulator (this is how the window goes up or down with the crank.

        Eighth Step: The Glass has metal pieces attached to it, the metal piece that is on the lowest point on the glass is for the wheel, Get the glass into the door and then have that metal piece line up with the wheel so it can go right into it, After making sure the glass is lined up with the door frame and everything is bolted down (double check) Put on the crank onto the regulator by screwing the T25 screw into the regulator and test the window. If it's successful, Remove the crank and put your door back together. The silver piece clips into the door. Put the washer over the regulator (The crank that screws it in, The washer is behind it.) Put your vapor barrier back or replace it. Then the door card goes back on, The armrest is screwed back in and the trim pieces are put back on the door itself.

        Final step: Put on the crank and screw it down, It has to be snug. Put the cover on the crank and you're done.

        Repeat this step for the rest of the doors, Whenever it's a coupe, sedan, touring or the prototype truck. It doesn't matter as this will be the same for all e30's. Hope this helps!

        Comment

        • BadDays
          Member
          • Dec 2024
          • 54

          #19
          Time for a long overdue update! In the time between my last forum post and now, I was able to do a few upgrades and start getting rid of rust bubbles on the car, Turns out there's some rust in the inner wheelhouse in the trunk but that's literally all of the rust, this car is 96% rust free for a vermont car which is shocking but thankfully the service records show it was looked after.


          Thanks to the bimmerforums and E21 Community, The first thing was upgrading the radiator to a chevy style 22x19 radiator. Ask yourself why do such a thing? Well because the original radiator finally cracked after I scored a rear bumper for the car. ​ This unit required me to drill a hole for a bracket (Temporary) to mount it correctly along with getting two new hoses for the set up.

          I used a Gates 21630 hose and a Mercedes 280 SL top hose for the set up, If you're looking to do this yourself for your 318i or E21, I highly recommend investing in a radiator with a drain plug but due to budget constraints, I went with the Speedway unit and it works just fine! The great news is that now this car runs a crossflow setup which should dissipate the heat better.

          I also took off the Siezed air conditioning compressor and left it hanging due to having no tools to remove the lines, I'll be taking the car to a shop to have them remove the lines connecting to the compressor along with a regular checkup.

          As for bodywork! I'm no expert but I'm going ahead and reconditioning the metal in areas where bubbles had appeared, Unfortunately I didn't take photos for the first situation during the process but I will once I get the body filler applied and primer set, However I did take photos for the taillight situation, In the meantime I mentioned the bumper which is finally repaired and back on the car properly.

          As for one last thing, I found a pretty disturbing rodents nest in my passenger dome light but the animals are long gone from this car thankfully, I had to repair the wiring but that's it Click image for larger version

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          Attached Files

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          • Nomics
            Noobie
            • Jul 2019
            • 4

            #20
            What show are you planning on going to? Is it an E30 show or just a general car show?

            Comment

            • BadDays
              Member
              • Dec 2024
              • 54

              #21
              I plan to head to my first E30 Related show once I can get all of the kinks worked out on the car, Just yesterday she shredded the top hose and popped off the bottom hose so that tells me I still need to do a lot more before she's ready for any trip, Now thankfully the previous owner used a copper pipe to connect two radiator hoses together so I redid that idea for the top hose, I believe the port in the pipe is for a temperature sensor and that's why the temperature gauge is acting twitchy but remains consistent. I basically need to get a expert to help me secure this radiator along with fixing a common oil leak. Click image for larger version

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              • 2mAn
                Moderator
                • Aug 2010
                • 20055

                #22
                Lets see pics of this Chevy radiator setup thats giving you problems now haha
                Simon
                Current Cars:
                -1966 Lotus Elan
                -1986 German Car
                -2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

                Make R3V Great Again -2020

                Comment

                • BadDays
                  Member
                  • Dec 2024
                  • 54

                  #23
                  Oh absolutely, this is the most recent picture that I have! Haha. Click image for larger version

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ID:	10144290 The finest engineering comes to having your Serpentine Belt snap as you're leaving your street. Thankfully it's all good now since I replaced the belt. I got rain gutter clips today as well to fix the dangling side trim!

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                  • BadDays
                    Member
                    • Dec 2024
                    • 54

                    #24
                    Rain Gutter Trim Installed, Tape was there to hold it temporarily but now I'm going to wash her when the weather is better. Click image for larger version

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                    • 2mAn
                      Moderator
                      • Aug 2010
                      • 20055

                      #25
                      Get some closer pics and take them in landscape, not portrait!...

                      Is there a fan on there?

                      BTW, if you want to add an analog clock to yours, its plug & play and makes a lovely improvement inside...
                      Simon
                      Current Cars:
                      -1966 Lotus Elan
                      -1986 German Car
                      -2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

                      Make R3V Great Again -2020

                      Comment

                      • BadDays
                        Member
                        • Dec 2024
                        • 54

                        #26
                        Will do so tomorrow! I will be adding a SPAL fan unit onto the radiator once I have some free time from classes, However the good news is that the hose can get extended so I'm doing that first.

                        Comment

                        • BadDays
                          Member
                          • Dec 2024
                          • 54

                          #27
                          Update: Got some pictures since i was busy replacing alternator belts, the cause of these snapping is a stripped bracket that won't let the belt tension properly, I'll replace it as soon my next paycheck lets me do so, In good news! The coolant hoses are no longer contacting the alternator fan so this is the definitive guide for installing the Chevy 22x19 Radiator in your E30 with the M10, By no means am i a professional but this is how i went with the install.


                          You'll need to install a bracket at the bottom of the core support to hold the radiator, Using the original bracket is optional and that's what i went with but i highly recommend you weld it, Self tappers are an option as well. In this case I used rubber pads and tape to secure it to the bracket so the radiator has a cushion. Click image for larger version

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                          It isn't pretty but it gets the job done, Next you'll need to aquire two hoses for this setup, The Gates 21630 Radiator Hose for the bottom and the upper radiator hose for a 1968-1971 Mercedes Benz 280Sl.

                          We'll start up at the top:
                          Click image for larger version

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ID:	10144778 You will need to extend the hose to clear the alternator fan since I tried to do it like the E21 Folks and it only resulted in the hose being shredded in the middle, In this case I used the previous owner's creative idea of a metal pipe and the temperature sensor to extend the hose but if you need dimensions, The 1X1 up to 1x4 1/2 Black Steel Nipple Pipe from home depot will fit with no issues! I also went ahead and reconnected the temperature sensor but you may not have one so it's optional.

                          For the Lower Hose:
                          Click image for larger version

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ID:	10144776 The lower hose will need to be cut in half starting at the first bend, MAKE SURE IT'S THE BIG CONNECTOR, You will need to use hot water to shove the hose onto the bottom inlet of the radiator and use a large hose clamp to secure it down, Turn the water pump hose to the other side since the thermostat is now pushed back to clear the bottom hose, However for all of my people with Air conditioning, You will unfortunately have to live without A/C for this setup but remove the air conditioning compressor so you can clear the setup.

                          As for securing the radiator, Make your own brackets or use zip ties if you got them.


                          Finally, Fill up the radiator and check periodically for leaks and low coolant, It takes around 3-5 Quarts of coolant to fill up the radiator and you can use regular store brand coolant. Bleed the system and you're good to go: Click image for larger version

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ID:	10144779 Cheers! The next update will hopefully be that I can get more crap fixed in anticipation for a future car show later on in the fall!
                          Attached Files

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                          • BadDays
                            Member
                            • Dec 2024
                            • 54

                            #28
                            Had my first actual car show hosted in my town! There was a another e30 which i had a lovely chat with the owner, However I'm sure I'm going to attend more events and continue fixing issues on this car! (Blurred Out The Faces for their privacy.) Click image for larger version

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                            The Lovely M20, It's true that it sounds like a sewing machine just like the M10.


                            That's it for this update, see you on the next one!
                            Attached Files

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                            • Wolfgang
                              Noobie
                              • Jun 2007
                              • 21

                              #29
                              I absolutely love the paint. My favorite color. I had a 318i just like this in Delphin metallic. I envy your manual windows! :D
                              1985 318i Coupe 5MT - Sold
                              1989 325i Convertible 5MT ☀️
                              1997 Kawasaki Ninja EX250 🍂
                              2006 Subaru Legacy 2.5i 5MT ❄️

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                              • BadDays
                                Member
                                • Dec 2024
                                • 54

                                #30
                                Delphin Metallic is a great color! Thank you! I'm actually beginning to look at the possibilities of a M50 swap due to budget costs and parts availability but that'll be in the winter/early spring if it does happen. Also Manual windows are lighter, Costed around 350 bucks to gut out the electrical stuff. (PSST, I got a write up on it too)

                                However! Here's a art project i did for my schoolwork while I'm busy focusing on finding a job to support this car XD Click image for larger version

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