Slow and Proud - My 85' 318i

[BadDays]

So it took me two days to essentially figure out the overheating issues were caused by a worn out water pump and that I didn't flush the coolant enough, I will be flushing out the store bought coolant in favor of OEM coolant and replacing the thermostat. I might need to keep the old thermostat just in case the new one turns out to be faulty, In the meantime I also had a look in the valve train to see why my timing chain is rattling everytime i start the car.
Every component in here looks like it has normal wear and tear but the rockers are fine and there isn't anything loose. I shined a light down the timing chain and saw that the tensioner was well worn-out at this point. It didn't help that the engine wasn't ran for a month thanks to the ecu fiasco.

It was like 6am when i took these photos, However i ordered new gaskets and a tensioner kit plus other stuff so that will be on it's way.

Here's the part numbers for the window crank and it's components:
Window crank is 51321904507
Window crank washer is 51322460567
Window crank cover is 51321906497
The screw for the crank is a T25 Bolt that screws in the middle.

I'll update with a guide on replacing the tensioner once it gets here. Cheers!

[Panici]

Sorry to read about the crash. Perhaps take it as a lesson in finding the limits on public roads.
IMO you should not be driving hard enough to trigger the ABS (even if equipped). Need to leave margin for error and road conditions on public streets.


Good progress so far with the restoration.
Nice manual window conversion, personally I'd just leave it like that in the name of lightness!

[BadDays]

Thank you! Since the crash, I've learnt to take it slow with my driving on public roads and stay on high alert for trouble, I do want to take the car to some type of track event to really get to know my handling but in the name of safety, I'd rather drive like a grandma on public roads. There's a lot of dumb drivers out there so it's important to be safe (especially since i don't have airbags or any traction control.)

BTW I'll write a manual window conversion guide here since people might need this infomation for the future
Tools Required: 10 Millimeter Socket Wrench
T25 Torx Bit with screwdriver.
Door Clip Removal Tool.


First Step: You start by removing the door handle trim which slides out and then unscrewing the plastic knob that is on the door lock.

Second Step: Begin by removing the armrest which has three screws, Two on the bottom and one hidden behind a trim piece on the armrest.

Third Step: Slide the armrest out, Begin removing the door panel by using a door clip removal tool, Go around the door panel until all of the clips have been popped off and then carefully remove the door panel.

Fourth Step: Carefully remove the vapor barrier and then go to the window motor and undo three 10 Millimeter Bolts holding it in, Undo the connection to the wiring in the door for the power window. Next find the 10 Millimeter bolts holding the window regulator and undo those until you have loosened the regulator but don't remove it yet.

Fifth Step: You will need to manually unwind the windows down to remove the glass which is a T25 torx screw. Use a screwdriver for this step. After unwinding the windows (it will be a pain in the ass if the motor is seized) Remove the metal clips holding in the silver trim and then carefully slide the window out and place it on a soft surface, I recommend using a blanket so you aren't scratching the glass.

Sixth Step: get all of those bolts out of the regulator that are connected to the door, You will need to save these bolts somewhere. You have to slide the regulator out of the door from the bottom which will be the hole in the bottom right or left (Depending on the door). Take your time with this, Don’t rush it and carefully get that sucker out so once you're done removing it, set it somewhere and get your crank window regulator ready.

Seventh Step: Put in the crank window regulator as you did with the power window, Get it in the door and line it up with the bolt holes in the door, Then it's a matter of Screwing one bolt at a time until it's properly seated in the door itself. Get the glass ready (clean it if you wish) and then locate the wheel in the regulator (this is how the window goes up or down with the crank.

Eighth Step: The Glass has metal pieces attached to it, the metal piece that is on the lowest point on the glass is for the wheel, Get the glass into the door and then have that metal piece line up with the wheel so it can go right into it, After making sure the glass is lined up with the door frame and everything is bolted down (double check) Put on the crank onto the regulator by screwing the T25 screw into the regulator and test the window. If it's successful, Remove the crank and put your door back together. The silver piece clips into the door. Put the washer over the regulator (The crank that screws it in, The washer is behind it.) Put your vapor barrier back or replace it. Then the door card goes back on, The armrest is screwed back in and the trim pieces are put back on the door itself.

Final step: Put on the crank and screw it down, It has to be snug. Put the cover on the crank and you're done.

Repeat this step for the rest of the doors, Whenever it's a coupe, sedan, touring or the prototype truck. It doesn't matter as this will be the same for all e30's. Hope this helps!