E30 #Driftslut

[jalopi]

yeah but aren't the axles the same length? non-m z3's and e30's that is

[IronFreak]

that I'm not sure, never got that far. The difference between the arms is at the bearing housing, its wider on z3 arms.

[IronFreak]

Here you can see the difference.

z3


E30


Just looking at that would lead me to believe the axles are different as well (z3 being longer).

[jalopi]

i'll snap some pics when i get the chance, but the "face" where the axle nut tightens up on is deeply recessed on the z3 hubs.

they're not the same part numbers, but according to realoem they're interchangeable

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=33_1105
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=33211226901

[IronFreak]

Yeah I have z3 hubs on my e30. I'm talking about where the cast portion is welded to the stamped part. you can see on the z3 its about 3/4"-1" wider.

[jalopi]

it's tough to say... maybe? haven't seen one in person so i dunno

regardless, me and OP have the same wheels. i'm just trying to figure out how his are flush and mine poked by a good bit. like, he should at least have 1" of poke or something, but there's none

[325est13psi]

mine are still 4x100 so maybe the offset is not the same as the 5 lug ones
i wish it did poke like crazy so i had an excuse to cut up the body

all the z3 trailing arm talk is really good info
curious about the axles tho, hopefully i get a set with the arms

[jalopi]

why do you want to switch to z3 trailing arms anyway? this is a drifto car, right?

once you get the SLR full/half kit or pay someone to lengthen your cast control arms/cut knuckles (which i prefer due to the limited availability of high misalignment spacers) your front wheels will poke (depending on how much camber you run) by about two inches. then in the rear you can use bolt on spacers since it really doesn't matter in the rear anyway

http://superstylegarage.com/shop/bmw/extended-e36-e30-control-arms/

[325est13psi]

i have e46 front arms and chopped e36 m3 hubs and brakes in the front
i want 5 lug in rear to match....
plus i want to learn widebody work
this whole car is a huge learning experience

[jalopi]

1. e46 control arms are garbage. ditch that shit and go back to the stock arms, lengthen your original or get SLR arms. I made a thread about e46 arms that basically goes over how they're complete shit for drifting. you literally lose inches of clearance vs the stock arms



i don't get 100% of my full lock with the stock control arms on my e36, but the issue's been solved with bumpstops on the arms. my turning radius is still tight enough to do circles in front of my house without having to do a three point turn

2. da fuq are chopped hubs? *edit*, i assume you mean cut knuckles?

3. just get fender flares. i too wanted to be cool and have a mega widebody so i made my own front fenders. they looked pretty bad until you got about 20 feet away and it took me about 10-20 hours + $100 to make em. flares are superior for drifting cuz when you love tap that wall/other car they're cheap and easy to replace. only reason you see so many 240's rocking widebodies/overfenders is because they're so damn cheap for those cars, unlike ours

4. go for the 5lug in the rear if you want, all the more power to you, but if i had to do it all over again i'd use z4 hubs on the stock arms. that way you can do a budget BBK to match the m3 brakes in the front AND your stock parking brake should work. besides, more and more of the professional guys are finding that having a wide front track and a narrower rear is better for drifting

regardless git-r-dun

[325est13psi]

thats good info, i dont have a rubbing issue on my arms with style 5's
and the spindle tie rod mount was cut 15mm and rewelded with some adjustment as per a article i read online, i only took this route as i didnt have the money for wisefab or SLR
both are great kits but as of now i dont have any ackerman issues so im happy with
it for now

i dont really like fender flares because they break into bits if a rear tire blows out from drifting, a steel widebody would be much stronger, and look good as long as i dont bang doors tandeming

[jalopi]

if you only moved the mounting point back 15mm, that'd explain why you're not having any issues with clearance

i'll have to get out the calipers when i go into the garage later, but i think on the SLR kit the mounting point is moved back more like 25-30mm.

i won't argue the whole durability thing with steel, just know what you're getting yourself into. make sure you have .023" stuff for your welder or you're gonna be patching holes, i'm sure iron has much better advice for you there than me. also, for fabbing sheetmetal stuff these are your friends [credit goes to ross for introducing me to these]


http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...mps-60545.html

also don't use "bondo" for the bodywork, it's garbage. not to say that it won't be functional, but it's stupid hard to sand and is more rigid than good filler (i.e. more prone to cracking). this stuff might be 3x more expensive but you can do sooooooooo much bodywork with it, it really goes a long way

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fge-112

[325est13psi]

ill be using my everlast tig welder to make it easier on myself

buts thats all down the road a ways, i still need to finish the v8 swap
need
flywheel
clutch
plumb brakes
build exhaust
get coolant hoses

[jalopi]

btw i hate to be a debbie downer but i don't think you're gonna have enough airflow going to that radiator

assuming your naca ducts use 3" tube (7 sq.in each) and your scoop on the rear window is a generous 24"x6" (144 sq.in) your total radiator intake area is only 158 square inches. it's been a while since i had to figure this out, but based on the pictures i took (with measurements) the stock radiator opening is about 340 square inches on these cars.

guys have problems staying cool with m60's using z3 radiators with the airflow they get, who knows what kinda issues you're gonna run into with such tiny piping.

IMO ditch the teeny naca ducts and turn your entire quarter windows into ducts, like what these guys did



add that to the roof scoop you already have and i think you'll have more than enough airflow

[325est13psi]

your fine, i like the feed back, i was also thinking about bigger side scoops, i met a guy on IG that slide a e36 s52 with a rear rad, he doesnt even have a rear window scoop and no issues, from what ive read is the front mounts get alot of under hood radiant heat and poor flow, just remote mounting the radiator your ahead of the game, extended idle will be the biggest issue, i will be upgrading both fans to aid in cooling