M30b34 E30 twin-screw supercharged muscle car
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Well, my "Christmas bonus" was a bit less than I expected so I'm gonna have to slow it down a bit for financial reasons.Leave a comment:
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Been stalking you for a while hoping to see something super cool.Leave a comment:
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Been working out of townish and haven't done jack shit. I'm also back to trying to get it running pre-supercharger. Maybe on the ms2 I have for the other car.
checklist:
crank sensor and e34 harmonic balancer
IAT sensor
TPS
O2 sensor and controller
C101 (re) rewired
fuel air spark
What else?Leave a comment:
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Imo is reinforce the subframe it's 15 bucks and 30 min of welding that will save you a head ache.Leave a comment:
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I'm gonna have to weigh it. Iiiiiiiregardless, I'm adding at least 40lbs of supercharger to it as well.Leave a comment:
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Also reinforcing the subframe will help handle the power and weight of the motor. Cause over time with weight and power it's not a matter of if but when you will twist your subframe and bend the shit out of the mounting points cause the m30 way heavier then the m20.
Especially without ac and relocated battery. I remember reading people with these swaps saying that the weight is always exaggerated.Leave a comment:
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Haha holy sh!t, you are really turning this into a hot rod!!! This will be so rad!
Sub'dLeave a comment:
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Thanks!
How many e30m30 mounts have you made? Seems like you've made quite a few.
M30 is a heavy motor and all longitudinal forces (acceleration/braking) are hinged (literally) on the t-joint fillet welds. In the title of your build you say it's a muscle car & you plan on supercharging the motor, so I can only hope that the car will be driven with some gusto. With the potential forces applied and the weld joints in shear, especially down at the motor mount, I'd really be surprised if your radiator didn't eat some distributor cap sometime in the future.
Yes, the piece in the middle will make them stronger. I will gladly eat crow if they ever bend in any way. This is how I do things. If they break, I will fix them and I will know that they should have been stronger. But if they don't break, I will know that they were great, and I will not mock you for it.
In closing, don't stroll up into someone's build thread and get all critical of shit without saying one nice thing. :???:
Good day sir.Leave a comment:
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M30b34 E30 muscle car
It's your build, so do what you want...But with all the fab you've talked about doing in the last 4 pages, it seams like you could have done a bit less typing and a bit more welding; then these arms could be done correctly in a few hours.
The M30 is a heavy motor and all longitudinal forces (acceleration/braking) are hinged (literally) on the t-joint fillet welds. In the title of your build you say it's a muscle car & you plan on supercharging the motor, so I can only hope that the car will be driven with some gusto. With the potential forces applied and the weld joints in shear, especially down at the motor mount, I'd really be surprised if your radiator didn't eat some distributor cap sometime in the future. A simple piece stuck in the middle creating an H-beam would completely eliminate all shear potential on the joint. Look at most OEM arms, they are boxed or H-beam for a reason!
What method of welding did you use? GMAW, SMAW? How many passes? SMAW you say? What type of rod?
Also reinforcing the subframe will help handle the power and weight of the motor. Cause over time with weight and power it's not a matter of if but when you will twist your subframe and bend the shit out of the mounting points cause the m30 way heavier then the m20.Leave a comment:
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Leave a comment: