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Awesome thread. Wondering if you tested those front brake hoses on the rear? Do they work without binding/interfering?
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more e39 content.
Put in a new waterpump/thermostat. Used new grade 8.8 bolts/nuts. ECS aluminum pulley.
I located a m54b30 disa valve (long story short, i had a 2.5L disa somehow instead) and replaced the flapper with German Auto Solutions aluminum upgrade kit.
The front main seal was seeping so I tried to get the crank pulley off with my IR 1/2" impact. I soaked it in penetrating lubricant and had no luck. I ended up ordering a 1" impact from HF with a 25%off coupon. Ended up paying retail price ($129) after I got a 1" 22mm socket. This thing is so amazing. Heavy as shit, but it took off the bolt in maybe 2.5 seconds!! unreal.
e30 diff cover is back on. will eventually get back to that i promise!
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pic as promised
and after way too long of cleaning the rtv off the disa valve, it's finally ready to go back into m54b30 intake.
Last edited by s14brent; 12-19-2016, 05:02 PM.
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Originally posted by iXguido View PostThis is not possible because of the c-clip
Thanks!
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Originally posted by brutus View Postwell done on all that effort mate !
Originally posted by jpod999 View PostYour tool setup is awesome Brenton, that must make life so much more enjoyable ;)
=======e39/m54b30 touring content==========
Speaking of tools, my old 1/2" Ingersoll Rand impact won't budge the m54b30's crank bolt. I ordered a 1" impact from harbor freight (coupon was expiring last night and the store was already closed). and a 1" 22mm single socket on amazon. hopefully 1500lb will break that thing bolt free! Not the best, but for $125 for both it was the cheapest solution. The front seal is leaking pretty bad and needs to be replaced.
The local shop that was going to order my diff gasket failed and didn't even order it, so I placed an order on pelican this morning. not doing much until that comes in, so I decided to work on the m54.
I took off the hard coolant pipes and took off the oil filter housing. Put a fresh gasket and replaced the coolant lines with new. Good thing I replaced them, the ends were super brittle/corroded and broke off at the ends.
I looked on real oem, and the oil pickup part #'s are different between the 330i and 530i (530/525 shared the same pn). I got a new o-ring and replaced the pickup for the 525 spare I got with the oil pan. but they looked Identical to me.
tacked the oil pump nut because apparently its still a problem on the m54's.
oil pan went on next. all the bolts were cleaned up on a bench mounted wire wheel first.
Ran out of time before work, but I'll get back to the e30 as soon as the gasket arrives and I can bolt the subframe back up and run the brake cables/lines.
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Your tool setup is awesome Brenton, that must make life so much more enjoyable ;)
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Got a spare cover, diff bushing came out easily with my press. I have part of a bearing removal kit that fit perfectly.
I tried to degrease and blast the cover but ran out of daylight. My IE bushing should arrive tomorrow!
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So I got the IE bushing today and pressed it in, but I messed up my gasket order. (I accidently ordered one for a small case) I finished cleaning up the cover and installing a new speed sensor o-ring. Local carquest will have the gasket for me on Monday.
Last edited by s14brent; 08-26-2020, 12:57 AM.
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you can tilt the diff up and place some wood or something to prop it up right so you can just switch diff bushings.
i recommend taking the cover off and getting a new gasket.
its a bitch sometimes to remove that stock rubber diff bushing
drill a hole
fit a hack saw blade through the hole.
attach blade to hack saw,
cut a notch/groove in the metal ring
use a chisel to bend the ring inward on its self
punch the ring off
drink beer
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Originally posted by Bggdnssnguy View PostSo you didn't press the bearing onto the hub first before installation? I would think you would want to press them in the knuckle as one..
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So you didn't press the bearing onto the hub first before installation? I would think you would want to press them in the knuckle as one..
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dude, fluid gets expensive when it's all said and done. I wouldn't say you're being a cheap ass as much as you're being efficient.
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So..a few things stopped working right in my garage last week. When I was welding the garagistic trailing arm reinforcements, my wire speed kept fluctuating and pissing me off. I goofed up and realized I was using .35 drive rollers on .30 wire. :facepalm:
It seems to be working great, but most of the welding is already done.
Then my 60 gal air compressor's pressure switch took a shit on me and replacement parts took about a 4 days and finally arrived today. The stock PSI gauge was cracked when I got the compressor 2nd hand. I decided to go with a liquid filled one so the needle won't go crazy every time it's filling up. I didn't realize the gauge readings were backwards. I'm thinking of maybe getting a 90 degree brass fitting and seeing if I can have it sit upright, but I really don't care. The new switch cutoff is closer to 140 psi vs 130 psi. I have to look into adjusting that later.
Of course I had to test it out, so I cut he lip off the rear rotor dust shields to fit the larger e46 rotors. I'll clean the jagged edges up later.
and right when I was done UPS showed up and dropped off my ecs pair of front brake lines (that I'll obviously be running in the rear). Decided to throw them on along with Hita's (e30 adapters) e46 rear caliper adapter.
notice axles are also in!!
I won't be reinstalling right away, I decided to order an Ireland Engineering poly diff bushing. I realized I just did the new e28 3.46 recently, but it will be the only thing rubber back there, and I don't really want to drop anything back there for as long as possible if necessary! I gotta find a way to reuse the redline fluid in there currently! LOL...me being a cheap ass!Last edited by s14brent; 08-27-2020, 07:01 AM.
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small update! but glad it's finally moving along! I had my friend shave down the subframe bushings for eccentric bolt clearance. Includes cluster fuck of parts:
uuc rear sway bar reinforcement, garagistic differential reinforcement and trailing arm reinforcements, ie motorsports camber/toe adjustments and subframe bushings, revshift trailing arm bushings.
next up: parking brake hardware/shoes and lines, e30 rear wheel bearings, z4 hubs. e46 caliper adapters.
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edit: no need to bump thread since traffic is low. - Pressed in the wheel bearing and hub, installed new parking brake cables, shoes and hardware. Ended the day installing 78mm motorsport hardware studs
Last edited by s14brent; 08-26-2020, 01:13 AM.
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