cameras ready prepare to flash

[s14brent]

My car has been sitting for a while. School, job, broken leg, kid, garage build have all taken a toll lol.
I'm not on E85. Would love to but I'd have to buy it by the barrel and that's over the line of what's worth it for me.

Re: the links/tapes, I'd probably try some clear packing tape with whatever edge sealer you try and see if it reacts. If the edge isn`t going to be exposed or painted, I would forego the tape and just cut the fuzzies, edge seal it, and just let the edge be a little bumpy.

I get it man, life gets busy!! I almost sold off this car a few times over the years, and am glad I held onto it as its one of the best stress relievers some how.

I think I will do the edge sealer and try to sand that lightly and to a few vinyl strip test-wraps. I just want it sealed as I don't think finding another kit will be really what I want to worry about down the line. I also dont care if its too bumpy to be honest, I just hope it wraps decently.

also does anyone know what kind of flat rubber washers are used on this bimmer world kit -AN fitting kit? I can't believe this was just thrown in with the motor. I wanted one of these for quite a while now, much easier to tap in an accusump to one of these vs the cap style!

[Northern]

My car has been sitting for a while. School, job, broken leg, kid, garage build have all taken a toll lol.
I'm not on E85. Would love to but I'd have to buy it by the barrel and that's over the line of what's worth it for me.

Re: the links/tapes, I'd probably try some clear packing tape with whatever edge sealer you try and see if it reacts. If the edge isn`t going to be exposed or painted, I would forego the tape and just cut the fuzzies, edge seal it, and just let the edge be a little bumpy.

[s14brent]

I like the RSI V2 and the cast kangaroo twinscroll manifold (haven't seen one used yet but seems promising)

I think there are a lot of turbo options out there now, and I'd try to spend some time deciding power goal and researching options.

Re: Kevlar fuzzies - how you sand will make a difference to how big the fuzzies are. It's been a while but at work I'd always use a die grinder and 2" roloc sanding disc and try to sand into the edge. seemed to make fewer fuzzies. An Olfa knife or similar sharp knife that lets you refresh the blade will be your friend for the rest of the fuzzies.

Once the fuzzies are gone, the sanded surface needs to be sealed (something like 3M Edge Sealer is ideal and the big cotton swab applicator makes it easy, but a krazy glue type of adhesive works in a pinch. I've used Loctite 404 in the past as well.) If it isn't sealed, the kevlar will wick up any water/oil that makes contact and slowly disbond.

Not sure how to reliably make a smooth edge this way though. Usually the paint shop would be paint the part and it would get a rubber edge seal afterward. Maybe some kind of tape, but short of https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/b40070583/ or https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/b40070623/ I don't know what would stick enough/not bond to the adhesive/not react or melt lol (and the linked options both sort of suck for different reasons)

RIGHT ON! Thanks for the valuable info! I'm going to be collecting parts for a while. I can't dump all the monies into it at once unfortunately. I'll check out the links shortly, but the edge sealer is something I was concerned about prior to wrapping! I'll check out the 2 links in a bit when i have more time.

As for turbos....i'm not putting on a $2k+ turbo, I'm liking the reviews from a few friends on the pulsar gtx3582 gen 2 however. There's a local 1jz guy who's been running it for a couple years now, and he beaaats on it! I've been more concerned about who's going to be able to tune this all said and done. Also, i haven't checked your thread in a while, but are you running e85/flex fuel?

[Northern]

I like the RSI V2 and the cast kangaroo twinscroll manifold (haven't seen one used yet but seems promising)

I think there are a lot of turbo options out there now, and I'd try to spend some time deciding power goal and researching options.

Re: Kevlar fuzzies - how you sand will make a difference to how big the fuzzies are. It's been a while but at work I'd always use a die grinder and 2" roloc sanding disc and try to sand into the edge. seemed to make fewer fuzzies. An Olfa knife or similar sharp knife that lets you refresh the blade will be your friend for the rest of the fuzzies.

Once the fuzzies are gone, the sanded surface needs to be sealed (something like 3M Edge Sealer is ideal and the big cotton swab applicator makes it easy, but a krazy glue type of adhesive works in a pinch. I've used Loctite 404 in the past as well.) If it isn't sealed, the kevlar will wick up any water/oil that makes contact and slowly disbond.

Not sure how to reliably make a smooth edge this way though. Usually the paint shop would be paint the part and it would get a rubber edge seal afterward. Maybe some kind of tape, but short of https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/b40070583/ or https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/b40070623/ I don't know what would stick enough/not bond to the adhesive/not react or melt lol (and the linked options both sort of suck for different reasons)

[s14brent]

well, this wasn't in the plans......I got a wild deal on an obd1 s52 long block with ces cutring/copper spacer and arp headstuds already installed. It also included an e46 oil filter housing, obd1 wiring harness, m50 manifold and a chipped 413 dme. I guess its time to look into 24v turbo things.....Is the RSI v2 manifold/tial 44mm wastegate and gtx3582 still a good quick spool combo?

[s14brent]

quick update from the last post. supercharger guy told me the soonest he could meet me was last week wednesday, but he marked it sold the night before. big sigh.....oh well, it saves me a chunk of change and downtime/fabrication for now. (I can revisit the whole power output issue at another time). I got bored and wanted to do a garage day since its been a while. I got in contact with a buddy of mine who finally had some time to help me fit my cliq tuning kit. I needed to test fit everything because I knew some trimming would be involved because of my angle kit/tire size selection. I also wanted him to fiberglass the 2pc sideskirts together. I did not like the way it looked with 3m double sided tape and didn't want to use any self tappers/fasteners down the middle since it was not as solid or stable as i preferred.. I didn't take too many pics during the process because of all the fiberglass/kevlar dust and sanding being sent up in the air. But I did have a lot to do when he started glassing. I started by cutting the corners off the OE bumper supports for clearance and the hardest part of it all, i had to chop the lower half of my front valence off..I cut it super clean, and it can probably be welded back on if I ever need it in the future I suppose. I also had to pull the muffler down since it was coming into contact with the new rear bumper. Surprisingly, the sheet metal radiator ducting and my ps cooler both cleared the front bumper perfectly! The PS cooler is perfectly aligned in one of the bumper openings.






The fitment isn't GREAT, but its' good-enough for my uses (also its the only kit out there that fits the whole "drift car" look.. Kevlar is crazy to cut through. If anyone knows a way to get rid of the hairs let me know. Sanding does not clean up the edges. The bumper fits onto the stock support like a glove after ends are shortened. It is really solid in that regard. Front and rear bumpers are held on by 2 quick latch bumper releases. These things are super cool. I really like how you can adjust the tension on the bumper pull with these. Definitely helped having helping hands during this. The side skirts are huge, I ended up using 5x m5 rivnuts to mount them. I have black hardware on order so it won't be as noticable.

The front bumper and fender side of the sideskirts all had to be radiused for wheel lock clearance as expected. I have the wheels turned to show the closest points going both L&R. at full lock there is a lot more clearance - which is perfect.


I do have to pull/reinstall the bumpers one more time to make the cuts for tow hook straps. I'm not sure if the old AKG tow hook will work up front but I'm for sure going to be running an OMP strap in the rear off the bumper shock. I kind of want to get a condor front tow strap but if the AKG works I'll use that. After tow hooks are all set and all the cuts are cleaned up, I'm actually going to pay someone to prep & wrap the cliq kit, and the wing for me. It's TOO hot right now, and I despise the thought of wrapping at this point. Also....I'm searching for a new muffler. My old vibrant muffler does not fit the new rear bumper. I will probably look for something a bit more obnoxious - grape fruit shooter or blast pipes as the muffler delete sound kind of matches the car.

[s14brent]

Cool to see you're still enjoying the car! I remember following your thread years ago when I was first getting into E30s as inspiration. Pretty sure we were both going through some trials and tribulations with our cars back then lol.

I think this is the coolest look yet, the white wheels is making that purple pop

Thanks man!! yeah i feel like i'm not done with the trials and tribulations part but its getting there and proud of the progress!! I just have to push to make time for this when I can because I don't have as much free-time to tinker in the garage as much. "free time" is no longer free it seems.

I love when this thread is updated. Hopefully some sideways pics on the next update!

I really hope so too! I know nothing really special will be happening soon (upgrade wise). I booked 3 weeks in japan later this year so that's where the money is focused at the moment.

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I've been playing with the idea of possibly supercharging the s52. I was very happy with my s-chassis at 336hp, and i know a turbo build would put me almost immediately over 400 and i'd have to definitely refresh the motor to handle it (and the price to do that kinda makes a 5.7 LS1 more ideal.. However, there are 2 buddies of mine who just sank a ton of money into their s52 turbo builds and are dealing with a lot of issues I would not have the time or patience for with the amount of money they've sunk into it already. So what happened was a RMS stage 2 kit has popped up locally for a really good deal. Communication is kind of slow with this guy, but it seems like a solid kit at his asking price. I've been doing some digging but something like 6-7psi should put me close to 300hp goal and fit the budget while including an obd1 plug and play link g4x ecu, i'd just have to worry about heat soak, but by going standalone I could probably map it for e85 since I'm redoing the rear fuel system anyways. I just have to find out how much of this kit would fit into the e30 and how much custom fab would be needed for a front mount aftercooler setup as it seems super tight in the e36 chassis already! I have things to keep me busy I guess!


Here's 2 random snaps from meeting up friends at a meet last week

[2mAn]

I love when this thread is updated. Hopefully some sideways pics on the next update!

[zwill23]

Cool to see you're still enjoying the car! I remember following your thread years ago when I was first getting into E30s as inspiration. Pretty sure we were both going through some trials and tribulations with our cars back then lol.

I think this is the coolest look yet, the white wheels is making that purple pop

[s14brent]

been a few months since i've had time to be in the garage to mess with the car unfortunately. hoping to get the car out to the next june vegasdrift night event.

the fog lamp switch had a blank panel prior with an alarm led. It actually cracked upon removal and it took me forever to just order a new blank pop panel.


it looks a lot better without a hole there again!

the 215/45 zestino 140tw fronts and 235/40 kenda kr20a rears are super grippy and without events i rather use my burners to drive around. I wanted to test fit them anyways as these are some china 245/35's. I didn't have to change out the 15mm spacer in the rear (which is nice).

the ride height has been bugging me, and i know I'm going to be test fitting on my cliq tuning kit soon. The cliq sideskirts cover the lower portion of the fender so i chopped the flares, due to the angle kit i needed to notch the flares for the clearance to go lower. I'm on the fence about the notch, but I figure I'll eventually run aftermarket fenders (cliq or something like ODI/gruppe bav) up front just because OE metal fenders are getting harder to find, and harder for me to chop up.

I'm pretty sure I can go lower, I just want no issues when the car is fully packed for the track and while under load, and the rears will be mainly 235/40's so i gave a little wiggle room.


I'm not planning to do too many heavy mods/down-time for the car this year. I want to take it to a few events and enjoy it. Next big thing to check off the list is the rear fuel system (tank included). I want to convert the rear to -AN to match the front, I also want to relocate the fuel filter probably next to a fuel surge tank. The stock location is in a dangerous spot when it comes to things like dirt drops. With that said, once I get all the parts on hand, it would be the best time to weld in the rear strut tower reinforcements and finally pull the trigger on a custom half-cage+doorbars setup. The slow collection of parts will be key so that the additional roll bar price makes it feel - not so bad all at once I think.

[s14brent]

I added some racegerman rear jack points and late model front bumper plugs. Ended up washing the car on my day off and drove out to redrock to snap some pics. can't really see any purple when its not in direct sunlight (which is preferred tbh). Pretty stoked how good it looks at this stage.

[s14brent]

i guess this is one of those rare times i add on completely useless things to make the car look better. I picked up a set of smoked depot smileys locally (with a box of random parts to sweeten the deal). They actually already had LED's already in them (score!) and i actually opted to remove the high beam from the driver side again. I actually have grown to like the functionality of that duct. LED's were just +/- spades, so i cut up some old HID bulb harnesses (9005/9006) to make them plug and play.



I had to dig up a pair of spare fog light pig tails that I had kept specifically for this and spliced them to the parking lights. I tried going back to smoked turn signals but it looked cheap somehow, so i reinstalled 1157s and 194s with brand new amber bulbs.



Light output is brighter with this setup than ellipsoids+phillips LED's, but i still need to aim this against a wall. I was surprised to actually see a cut off line (which is definitely a step up over stock setup), I was wanting to go down the ESG/morimoto MLED route but it's a track car at this point and i wish the esg/morimoto combo was like $200 cheaper tbh, so this will have to work for now.. I also was tired of looking at the heavily pitted ellipsoids, really happy about the plug-and-play setup as it's easy to change back if decide to do the mled/ellipsoid combo down the line or if i'm just in need of replacements down the line.

I also threw the euro bumper trim back on and decided to massacre them as well (it got the reciprocating saw/finger sander action like the bumpers/valance did). I tried looking for a Left side headlight euro grille, and a set of usdm bumper trim so I could have driver side high beam again, but the prices were too high for used pieces.

[s14brent]

We've found with the comp E36 that with no rear sway, about 0 camber is ideal for drifting, cause when its under compression and then the car rolls over a little in the corner the tyre stays flat. Tried positive camber and with the body roll it just roached the inside edges while in drift. Man was it fast in a straight line tho.

yeah i've been running no rear sway bar and will eventually get another alignment to get it as close to 0 as possible. that has always been the plan. However I do think i'll hold off on modding the car for a bit - tax season is upon us and I kind of want to redo the rear subframe adjustment tabs OR l want those dtm tubular trailing arms (best choice to keep grip)

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finally had some time in the garage to throw the front bumper support back on and had to do some more trimming on the valance/fender/bumper cover/is lip.





I refused to cut up the euro bumper trim, so I will just rock it trim-less until I have time to throw on the aero and then wrap it to match. Due to our drift organizers insurance policy, every car has to have a bumper on them now. Apparently last year some girl had her hand out the window filming and snapped her whole arm backwards causing these changes. I just have to keep the car in a state where it passes tech!



This is the 3.46 40% lockup thats now sitting on a shelf (semi-sealed up). I'm thinking I should probably sell it to fund other parts of the car but finding another 3.46 might be impossible locally - i'll probably just hang onto it, all e30 owners are hoarders right?!

[econti]

We've found with the comp E36 that with no rear sway, about 0 camber is ideal for drifting, cause when its under compression and then the car rolls over a little in the corner the tyre stays flat. Tried positive camber and with the body roll it just roached the inside edges while in drift. Man was it fast in a straight line tho.

[s14brent]

decided to bang out the rest of the to-do list this weekend after a long work week in hopes on trying to get to the track today. that did not happen, but I finished the job.



I lowered the subframe down and removed the IE poly bushings and installed the AKG 12mm raised bushings. No issues at all with these, big fan of akg poly. I didn't use their offset diff bushing and instead went with condors 45mm extended diff studs & bolts w/spacers. I had issues getting the diff back in last time by myself so I actually ran studs up front and bolts in the rear (driveshaft side). This actually worked out great, got the diff in on the first try!!

When I had the diff out it was the perfect time to do the gear ratio swap and just install the extended studs into the 3.73 pumpkin.


Kaaz in the 3.46 pumpkin.

just my luck having a FAG bearing fall apart by looking at it wrong. It was getting late at this point and I decided to call around like a madman to see if anywhere had the part in stock locally.

Advanced auto parts had ONE in stock, drove 30 min (one way) to get it.



not sure why the FAG bearing fell apart, it had less that 500 miles on it.


I then installed the diff into the housing and did the whole backlash measuring again. measured in at .007 - very happy with that!


I sealed up the diff and put the race german magnetic diff drain plug thats been sitting on my shelf for 6mo in. I used an oem gasket for the cover but I put a thin coat of RTV on there just to make sure it seals well.
^that's where I gave up and decided to call it a night.
The next morning I cleaned all 12 bolt threads for the axles & suspension/brakes that I removed. reapplied with some loctite, btw my garagistic secondary mount was the only thing out of spec i found, the nuts holding the mount to the chassis was a bit loosey goosey, i'll have to be sure to check that again after next event. I filled up the diff with some fresh Moutl 90PA (mineral based fluid for kaaz super q) - I have been in touch with Ray (owner at kaaz) and will be running either this or torco RGO 85w140+Torco type-F LSD friction modifier.

After fluids were filled I raised the rear about 3 full threads on each side. I may have done one-too many! The moment of truth came and I took the car out for a quick spin. There was kind of a high amount of traffic cops driving around so I kept it short and light. The front tires are definitely a lot grippier than i'm used too. I found myself shifting a lot quicker to keep the car quiet. The valino front tires were flinging pebbles everywhere - pretty grippy tire for the costs.. Also, after getting back into the garage, my parking brake popped, driver side for sure as it wasn't looking too good.....not sure if I will replace that anytime soon - vegas is flat. but i cant help but wonder why it wore so quickly. I only use it for parking, i have a hydraulic hand brake that i pull when needed. I'm pretty sure I replaced it when I went 5 lug but I also don't street drive often with this car anymore.


It looks like I might have a little positive camber in the rear now. I'm hoping under load its closer to 0 finally. I kind of don't love the positive camber being so visible. I may try to lower the rear like half of what I did today to see if that helps at all. All I know is that the next guy who tries to align the rear is going to have a problem getting a wrench in there at all!
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edit: a day later I decided that having two lsd diffs out on the work bench wasn't ideal and combined the best parts of both of them and I put together a 40% lock (3 clutch plate setup) into the 3.46LSD and threw the cover back on just to store it. the backlash is close but not as good as the kaaz i setup the other night. I really didn't want to spend too much time on it since I won't be running it anytime soon!