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  • s14brent
    replied
    so I found out from fortune auto the e30 coils are 60mm shorter and there is a 10mm spacer that goes between the mount and shock included with the e30 kit.



    I used 9mm of random spacers, and its paper thin clearance (uncompressed) so some grade 10.9 washers were ordered and longer m12 x 75mm bolts were ordered. Thank god! crisis avoided! The FA e30 replacement shocks are $325 ea. and I'd really hate to have mismatching suspension after all this work! I should have taken a picture from underneath where you can actually see the clearance. Oh well.
    Last edited by s14brent; 08-25-2020, 11:50 PM.

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  • ngampleh
    replied
    Originally posted by thedivision
    Thanks for following up.
    So, still thinking to buy rear caliper bracket?

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  • thedivision
    replied
    Thanks for following up.

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  • ngampleh
    replied
    Looks some nice progress ;)

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  • s14brent
    replied
    I had a bit of time today to work on the e30. It's always one step forward, two steps back with this car I swear!! :ugh:

    I was dumb and figured out I had the parking brake shoes mounted upside down. (which is why I couldn't get the rotor over the shoes)



    close up of the front brake lines used with e46 rear calipers



    I ended up putting the rear subframe back up (too dark for pics) but found out the e36 m3 fortune auto rear shocks rub against the axle boot (even when preloaded)



    CRAP.....any suggestions on shocks that will clear? I'm going to try to mess around with it later and make sure I'm not over-looking something silly.
    Last edited by s14brent; 08-25-2020, 11:59 PM.

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  • s14brent
    replied
    Originally posted by thedivision
    Awesome thread. Wondering if you tested those front brake hoses on the rear? Do they work without binding/interfering?

    not yet unfortunately I haven't had time to even look at the e30 lately, I have been overwhelmed with family, work and the holidays. there are a bunch of people on ngampleh (e30adapters) thread who have done this with no issue. Maybe he can chime in. I thought it was a lot easier than making a new brake line section and i'll probably use the old line to relocate the wilwood brake proportioning valve up higher when I get to installing that.

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  • thedivision
    replied
    Awesome thread. Wondering if you tested those front brake hoses on the rear? Do they work without binding/interfering?

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  • s14brent
    replied
    more e39 content.

    Put in a new waterpump/thermostat. Used new grade 8.8 bolts/nuts. ECS aluminum pulley.



    I located a m54b30 disa valve (long story short, i had a 2.5L disa somehow instead) and replaced the flapper with German Auto Solutions aluminum upgrade kit.



    The front main seal was seeping so I tried to get the crank pulley off with my IR 1/2" impact. I soaked it in penetrating lubricant and had no luck. I ended up ordering a 1" impact from HF with a 25%off coupon. Ended up paying retail price ($129) after I got a 1" 22mm socket. This thing is so amazing. Heavy as shit, but it took off the bolt in maybe 2.5 seconds!! unreal.



    e30 diff cover is back on. will eventually get back to that i promise!

    ==================update=============

    pic as promised



    and after way too long of cleaning the rtv off the disa valve, it's finally ready to go back into m54b30 intake.

    Last edited by s14brent; 12-19-2016, 04:02 PM.

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  • Bggdnssnguy
    replied
    Originally posted by iXguido
    This is not possible because of the c-clip
    I gotcha. I wasn't sure. I havent done this yet. So figured I would ask.
    Thanks!

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  • s14brent
    replied
    Originally posted by brutus
    well done on all that effort mate !
    Thanks!

    Originally posted by jpod999
    Your tool setup is awesome Brenton, that must make life so much more enjoyable ;)
    I really wanted to make this as much of a DIY thing as possible. so I can't blame anyone really if the car sucks!! But yeah, I blame garagejournal if i went a bit overboard on tools this year.

    =======e39/m54b30 touring content==========

    Speaking of tools, my old 1/2" Ingersoll Rand impact won't budge the m54b30's crank bolt. I ordered a 1" impact from harbor freight (coupon was expiring last night and the store was already closed). and a 1" 22mm single socket on amazon. hopefully 1500lb will break that thing bolt free! Not the best, but for $125 for both it was the cheapest solution. The front seal is leaking pretty bad and needs to be replaced.

    The local shop that was going to order my diff gasket failed and didn't even order it, so I placed an order on pelican this morning. not doing much until that comes in, so I decided to work on the m54.



    I took off the hard coolant pipes and took off the oil filter housing. Put a fresh gasket and replaced the coolant lines with new. Good thing I replaced them, the ends were super brittle/corroded and broke off at the ends.




    I looked on real oem, and the oil pickup part #'s are different between the 330i and 530i (530/525 shared the same pn). I got a new o-ring and replaced the pickup for the 525 spare I got with the oil pan. but they looked Identical to me.



    tacked the oil pump nut because apparently its still a problem on the m54's.



    oil pan went on next. all the bolts were cleaned up on a bench mounted wire wheel first.



    Ran out of time before work, but I'll get back to the e30 as soon as the gasket arrives and I can bolt the subframe back up and run the brake cables/lines.

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  • jpod999
    replied
    Your tool setup is awesome Brenton, that must make life so much more enjoyable ;)

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  • brutus
    replied
    well done on all that effort mate !

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  • s14brent
    replied
    Got a spare cover, diff bushing came out easily with my press. I have part of a bearing removal kit that fit perfectly.



    I tried to degrease and blast the cover but ran out of daylight. My IE bushing should arrive tomorrow!

    ====================

    So I got the IE bushing today and pressed it in, but I messed up my gasket order. (I accidently ordered one for a small case) I finished cleaning up the cover and installing a new speed sensor o-ring. Local carquest will have the gasket for me on Monday.

    Last edited by s14brent; 08-25-2020, 11:57 PM.

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  • iwantspeed
    replied
    you can tilt the diff up and place some wood or something to prop it up right so you can just switch diff bushings.

    i recommend taking the cover off and getting a new gasket.

    its a bitch sometimes to remove that stock rubber diff bushing
    drill a hole
    fit a hack saw blade through the hole.
    attach blade to hack saw,
    cut a notch/groove in the metal ring

    use a chisel to bend the ring inward on its self
    punch the ring off
    drink beer

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  • iXguido
    replied
    Originally posted by Bggdnssnguy
    So you didn't press the bearing onto the hub first before installation? I would think you would want to press them in the knuckle as one..
    This is not possible because of the c-clip

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