Andrew's Sterlingsilber 90 325iS -> 318iS

[Andrew325is]

Make sure to unclog the factory vents, on each side of the rear valance, about four inches behind the rear tire, directly in the center of the tray. Looks almost like a "v", and they are usually packed full with dirt or factory undercoating.

Okay thanks.

[nando]

Anyone want to go for a swim? :P

I guess I'll have to get in the trunk and have someone spray water on it to see where it's leaking in. I hope they let me out after haha.

man, it's been absolutely *pissing* rain in the PNW. I feel you...

My E30 has sadly been outside for the last 2 months (didn't want to put it under a cover in the garage until I had a chance to wash it first). Thankfully, it proved to be leak free (rather surprising honestly, as 90% of the rubber is completely original).

Other potentially leaky spots, that you may or may not be aware of: antenna grommet, tailight gaskets, trunk gasket, and the window sail grommets.

I'm religious about not parking under trees, so thankfully I've never had a problem with the drains, but I have replaced the other mentioned gaskets multiple times.

Oh yeah, not sure if it's still true - but the Napa reman calipers were actually one of the nicest ones I've had.

[jeenyus]

I measured the runout of all the wheels with my new tool. They're all within spec. Of course that's the tires. I can't measure the wheels directly with the tires on them. BMW says maximum runout is 1.6 mm for the Z1/E30 (source) and 1.3 mm (axial) for E36 one-part alloys (source). Max lateral/axial runout on two of the wheels is 1.3 mm, and 1.0 mm and 0.8 mm for the other two. Radial runout are all within 1 mm. So they're pretty straight. I guess the shop did good straightening them.

Quick question on this. If you find out that you have radial run-out, how do you fix that? I can't seem to find the answer which is leading me to believe the answer is just "replace the tire". Would inflating them to like 40lbs help?

[Andrew325is]

Quick question on this. If you find out that you have radial run-out, how do you fix that? I can't seem to find the answer which is leading me to believe the answer is just "replace the tire". Would inflating them to like 40lbs help?

If the radial runout is beyond spec I would have the tire taken off the rim so you can measure the rim directly. If it’s just the tire that sounds like it’s defective.

[jeenyus]

If the radial runout is beyond spec I would have the tire taken off the rim so you can measure the rim directly. If it’s just the tire that sounds like it’s defective.

Well so the story of mine is that I had no issues, put on some "new" tires I found on Amazon for so cheap that matched the other Nittos I was already using. As soon as they were replaced I've had issues with vibration ever since. Leads me to think it's an issue with the actual tire, which wouldn't surprise me being they were so cheap and probably issue tires to begin with.

I have taken them to a tire shop by work and they always say they balance right even with road testing balancing (simulates road conditions and pressure) they are claiming there is no issue. They then told me it was probably my drivetrain, well that sent me on a wild goose chase and it still didn't resolve anything. I mean I learned things from it, but the tire issue is still there.

I'm just blown away that a tire shop needs me to tell them to check for radial runout and that's not something they look for on their own, you know, being a tire shop and everything.

[Andrew325is]

Yeah the tire shops appear to be professional, but they're really amateurs. Most of them don't even know what runout is. Only thing I could suggest is to try a different set of wheels/tires so you know for sure.

[Andrew325is]

Now I have all the parts to do the brakes and wheel bearings. I took quite a bit of time trying to research which brake pads to get since there are so many choices. I don't like cleaning the wheels all the time, so I want some that don't make a ton of dust, but I want them to stop well too. I decided on the Akebono for the front, and I got Centric PQ Pro for the rear (since there are no Akebono rears). I don't know what the formulation difference is exactly between the PQ Pro and the PosiQuiet Ceramic and Semi-Metallic (aside for an extra layer that is suppose to reduce the break-in period), so I called Centric and the rep I talked to didn't seem to know either. He said they're the same, but the PQ Pro come with roadside assistance. So who knows; I'll give them a try.

I got FAG for the bearings (the front hubs by Timken come with FAG bearings). And I got regular rubber ATE & Corteco hoses. Everyone goes with SS hoses, and I did on the last E30, but after I looked into it more I decided to go with the regular. The SS hoses deteriorate too, but you can't tell when with the braiding on them. I got Centric high carbon discs. I was thinking about getting the cryogenic ones, but they cost twice as much.

I painted the rebuilt calipers Nogaro silver. :) I wasn't sure if I should paint the piston & seal, so I masked those off. I used a 2k epoxy primer, followed by the basecoat and clearcoat.

[Andrew325is]

I got the brakes and wheel bearings installed. It was more work than I expected. I had to buy a new tool set to install the rear bearings. I got Astro 78825. It worked well. There's a genuine BMW tool set (special tool 33 4 030), but it's kind of expensive. It's part # 83300492349. I think it only does 75mm bearings. There's a different one for 85mm bearings used in some other BMW models. It's nice the aftermarket kits can do multiple sizes.

I also took the opportunity to replace the internal hex bolts on the output shafts (to differential) with the updated Torx bolts used on 8/90+ E30s (part # 33211227279). They're about $20 each from BMW, but I was able to grab them from a 95 740i at a local wrecking yard.

The Bentley manual calls for Loctite 638 to put on the front bearing/hub dust caps which I couldn’t find locally. So I used Permatex 64000 which is similar. Also, I wasn’t sure at first how to install the locking ring over the rear axle nuts. I tapped them on with the socket I used to torque the nuts. That worked really well. Looks just like factory.

[Andrew325is]

I got a brand new center console. The vinyl covering on the old one is peeling on the back side and looks gnarly.

[e30austin]

What did that cost you? I didn't think they were available still.

[laidback93]

What did that cost you? I didn't think they were available still.

Yeah I'd like to know the cost as well. The vinyl is bubbling up on this piece. Looks nasty.

[Andrew325is]

The center console was about $150.

[nando]

Dang. I should buy one at that price. It won't be long and they will be $500 or NLA..

[Andrew325is]

I renewed the front end. The PO included a new genuine BMW control arm for the right side so I just needed to get the left. The genuine one has Lemförder ball joints so I got a Lemförder for the left side. He told me not to touch the front end because it was all good, but that wasn't the case. (He had two of these cars so maybe he got them mixed up, who knows.) Everything needed replacement. I got E36 M3 tie rods and solid centered CABs, and also the stabilizer bar links and bushings. All Lemförder except I got genuine BMW stabilizer bar bushings. I got the CTA 8920 control arm bushing tool which made installing them a snap! The steering feels so tight now. It feels like a new BMW instead of a rickety old car like before. Now I just need to take it in for an alignment.

[Andrew325is]

I got a low mileage Z3 1.9 that's been very well maintained. From what I can tell from the Carfax it was 1-owner until late March of this year and then the second owner wrecked the front driver's side corner in July. About 1000 miles ago it had quite a bit of work done to it including replacing gaskets and seals in the engine. Most of the service was at BMW of Bellevue and BMW Seattle. I plan to use the engine with exhaust (at least forward of the muffler) and probably also the steering rack and shifter. I could also do the 5 lug conversion since it looks like I have everything except for the E36 M3 front struts and control arms, but I would need to find some E36 fitment wheels I like as much as the Euroweaves. Is there anything else on the car that's a good upgrade for the E30? I named it the Bond car since it's exactly the same as the one in GoldenEye haha.