Rotary-- Flame On!

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  • redbull 325is
    replied
    Originally posted by Brinkley
    removed lower braces, pulled bolt from diff bushing, whats holding this thing in there? just the subframe bushings are like fused?
    the inner alu core of the rear subframe bushings fuse themselves to the chassis. Take out the rear seat and hammer up on the bolts from the bottom of the car, then hammer the rear subframe bushing itself (inner core) and whatcha head.


    Julien

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  • einstein57
    replied
    my neighbor has a 13b turbo model a that is putting down 280 to the wheels on the factory ecu. Oh and he designed it 20 years ago and it still runs. He had a twin turbo pantera with 700 whp that he set a land speed record in with one turbo not working.

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  • Brinkley
    replied
    removed lower braces, pulled bolt from diff bushing, whats holding this thing in there? just the subframe bushings are like fused?

    Leave a comment:


  • Brinkley
    replied
    Yea an N/A FC would not be worthwhile. I think this will make a well-balanced car, though it will drive completely different from a s50 i think it will compete well.
    Battling rear subframe right now. lower braces removed, thanks to some drilling, every damn bolt on this car is frozen solid. do i really have to burn the things??

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  • TopOfTheLine89
    replied
    Originally posted by Brinkley
    So then a stock e30 325i should be able to waste an FD right? heavier with the less power? (this is sarcasm fyi)
    the 3rd gen 13b-rew makes 255hp/200tq in stock form we're planning on upping the boost a little and removing intake/exhaust restrictions, i dont think 290 is far-fetched at all
    Ok, i had it mixed up with the 13b from the FC, my bad.

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  • Emre
    replied
    Originally posted by TopOfTheLine89
    All i can say is good luck getting 290hp outta that 1.3 litre
    It's not exactly a big challenge to get 300+ hp out of a properly built and tuned 13B-REW.

    Originally posted by TopOfTheLine89
    it will have the torque of a an ETA when its done
    Turbo engines are usually pretty good with mid-range torque. Significant torque and HP should not be problems at all. Besides the obvious issues of installing the engine & tranny, cutting a custom drive-shaft, and getting the electronics to work, the biggest issue is likely to be cooling.

    Originally posted by TopOfTheLine89
    and will get 7mpg.
    You're probably right about that. Turbo rotaries are not generally known for their fuel efficiency. But you've got to pay to play.

    Emre

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  • Brinkley
    replied
    Subframe is about ready to come out. Decided to do it right.

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  • Brinkley
    replied
    Originally posted by TopOfTheLine89
    All i can say is good luck getting 290hp outta that 1.3 litre, it will have the torque of a an ETA when its done and will get 7mpg. But rock on.
    So then a stock e30 325i should be able to waste an FD right? heavier with the less power? (this is sarcasm fyi)
    the 3rd gen 13b-rew makes 255hp/200tq in stock form we're planning on upping the boost a little and removing intake/exhaust restrictions, i dont think 290 is far-fetched at all

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  • LivingLegend06
    replied
    4 rotor: 787b race car

    I don't think a rotary is a very good swap though. There is a company that is just does LS1 swaps into FDs and the cars come out lighter than when they come in while still retaining AC and full interiors. I also don't like the way rotaries deliver their power, they seem totally torque less.

    The swap that i have been dreaming of is the F20c. Lightweight, powerful, bulletproof and none of that turbo nonsense.
    Last edited by LivingLegend06; 10-14-2007, 02:26 PM.

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  • TopOfTheLine89
    replied
    All i can say is good luck getting 290hp outta that 1.3 litre, it will have the torque of a an ETA when its done and will get 7mpg. But rock on.

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  • oekundar
    replied
    This should be sweet....

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  • Teaguer
    replied
    Originally posted by asubimmer

    I really hope you are not as retarded as you come across as .

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  • redbull 325is
    replied
    Originally posted by backtrail69
    Remove the subframe and replace the subframe bushings too. No point doing something half assed.
    qft

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  • backtrail69
    replied
    Remove the subframe and replace the subframe bushings too. No point doing something half assed.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brinkley
    replied
    Ok while I've got a lot of people viewing this.
    1. I'm having major trouble with the bolts that hold in the rear trailing arms. Completely frozen, I would like to get em loose without dropping entire subframe, any advice?

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