1984 318i Resurrection

[mike.bmw]

Impressive work saving this one. Sub'd!

[KI4UJO]

Have you obtained a new (or known good) idle control box? It’s usually why these cars idle high. Not sure if they’re available new or not at this point

[Sunnyledge]

Idle control valves are available but a little pricey. So I wasn’t planning to replace it on my first go around.

[KI4UJO]

Its not the valve itself, but a control box. The DME does not do idle control itself, but it instead relies on a green box next to it under the dash. P/N: 13411707224. These are usually faulty, leading to solution such as "the penny fix."

[Sunnyledge]

The little black box is available. Haven’t heard of “the penny fix”. So .....

[packratbimmer]

If yours is still black and not green, check the manufacturing date. It might be a recall item if it is still original. The early 318i revved too high on start-up and often fried the rod bearings prematurely. Not sure if the green idle box helped with the issue. I'm not sure if recalls still apply after 35 years though - LOL.

[sebe20]

If yours is still black and not green, check the manufacturing date. It might be a recall item if it is still original. The early 318i revved too high on start-up and often fried the rod bearings prematurely. Not sure if the green idle box helped with the issue. I'm not sure if recalls still apply after 35 years though - LOL.

Well might aswell check in at the dealership. I got a letter for a airbag recall on a 1999 328ci a while back...

Sunnyledge, you sure put alot work into the body. Whats your plan after you fixed it?

[Sunnyledge]

This will basically be my “fun” car. I’ve always enjoyed driving a stick and like to have a car I can tinker with. It will not be a daily driver. The current mods on the car include +1 BBS wheels and vinyl sport seats. During this project I’m adding an E36 steering rack, H&R sport springs, Koni yellow adjustable shocks, a 12 mm 325 rear sway bar, Z3 shifter and a 3 spoke sport steering wheel. Also 87/88 front bumper shocks to get a slight bumper tuck. Hoping the original lacquer can be buffed and avoid a complete repaint. Long term a 2 liter street performance rebuild of the M10.

[Sunnyledge]

Replacement of the drivers floor is critical to structurally resurrecting the car. I searched for a replacement floor section from a donor car to no avail (Since making the repair I now see there is a source for new replacement floor panels). Since the rust damage extended up the transmission tunnel I would need to add some compound curves to the repair panel. This is the curse of the Coco mats.

[Sunnyledge]

First came the repair to the inner rocker in 16 gauge. This was pretty simple with only one curve involved and good access for welding.

[Sunnyledge]

I choose 18 gauge for main floor section which is slightly thicker that the stock floor, hoping I could avoid needing to add any beads or stiffeners. A challenge in fabricating this panel was created by me wanting to butt weld three of the four sides of the repair panel with the only lap weld anteriorly to replicate the factory scheme. The panel would need to fit the defect with no more than a 1/16” gap.

[Sunnyledge]

To help fabricate this panel I decided to create a wooden buck or form. I copied the contours that the floor would need to follow along the frame rail and in the area of the transmission tunnel and made some hard maple forms which I glued to a MDF base. I created the two straight bend fairly easy. Next I created the curve along the transmission tunnel which required working the metal with a mallet and sand bag. And of course I needed a bracket for the gas pedal.

[Sunnyledge]

I butt welded the lateral and posterior seams from inside and outside the car to ensure a good repair. The seam towards the tunnel was a little more tricky since the tunnel reinforcement was in the way, preventing welding from under the car. In order to reduce the risk I would blow through, seeking good penetration, I was able to place 2 copper strips along the seam, each with a pull out wire. One final panel/patch was fabricated in the drivers footwell.

[Sunnyledge]

To finish up to floors I made almost a dozen small repairs where spot weld and studs collected rust.

[Sunnyledge]

I wanted to paint the floor before applying sound deadener. I have an expensive quart of Hennarot acrylic lacquer which I planned to use for some cosmetic work, but didn’t want to waste it on the floor. There are no over the counter paints that I could find that matched my car. So I decided to mix my own. I started with a Rustoleum Kubota Orange and added small amounts of Rustoleum Signal Red. I was able to create a pretty good match using 2 parts orange to 1 part red. After spraying the floor I placed 80 mil sound deadener.