$1000 Sedan - Turbo Build - SOLD

[Panici]

no reason not to start with a conservative approach at first, though. it'll still be fun, you should at least make US E36M power.

Key takeaway here. I've had great success learning to tune and now tuning two turbo cars by taking my time.
Put a 4psi wastegate spring in it and pull 5deg timing out of a base map until you tune it up/get it tuned.

My miata was slower when out of boost then stock for about a year. Then I got a knock monitor on there and dialed in some timing. Have been slowly adding boost and now am running into other issues like crankcase venting.

[iso_hi]

So I got everything put together. 325i harness is in along with updated sensors. I got MSPnP2 connected to the harness in my glovebox.

When I connect the battery I only get one status light, even with the key turned, on the MS which I believe is for 12v power. I haven't been able to connect to the laptop and I believe it's because I'm not getting a 5v signal because from what I read the second light is supposed to be lit also, correct me if I'm wrong. I've confirmed that my serial to usb connection is working by jumping pins 2-3 and typing into mini terminal. My battery was purchased a few months ago so it's pretty new. I'm using the main relay from my 325e which worked fine but I'm not sure if I need a newer one.


Status light

The only thing I don't have connected to the harness is the ignition pulse plug because I haven't got newer spark plug wires. Is this required by the ECU?



Main relay

Any ideas of what my issue may be?

[iso_hi]

Finally after almost a month, I got megasquirt connected to my laptop and TunerStudio! I thought it was an issue with the 1.3 harness I bought since I was only getting one light on the mspnp2 for 12v power but no light for 5v. I was about to order another harness for $300 specific to 87 325i since I thought that was the issue. I got one last idea before caving.

When I installed my new main relay today and moved the others around, I noticed the sockets were sliding around more than usual. So what if the sockets got switched around at some point? I look underneath and sure enough the middle socket has 5 wires compared to the other two sockets 4 wires. There's my problem. After swapping the relays positions I turned the key to on and got two lights on megasquirt and a connection to tunerstudio.

Tomorrow I'll be getting oil and starting her up on megasquirt for the first time.

[iso_hi]

So it started right up on Megasquirt. Idle rpms were all over the place until I adjusted my throttle cable and a few settings on TunerStudio. I've only had it running for like 15 seconds at a time. I'm going to put coolant in now that it's running and get it on the road.

How does it sound? Anything I should be checking for on logs? And it's normal for rpms to be high on a cold start right?

Link to video: https://flic.kr/p/2oaFd7j

[Panici]

So it started right up on Megasquirt.

And it's normal for rpms to be high on a cold start right?

Nice, congratulations!

Do you have it set to closed or open loop idle valve control?
I recommend using open loop until everything is tuned, then switching to closed loop.

You can adjust the IAC duty cycle vs coolant temperature curve for cold-start idle control.
I know a lot of factory ECUs will keep rpms up on cold start, I believe this is to light off the cat converter.

[hozzziii]

I know a lot of factory ECUs will keep rpms up on cold start, I believe this is to light off the cat converter.

My 316's carb also keeps idle up on a cold start. And I don't have cats.

I think my pops told me they did this to warm up and get into working temps quicker for a lot of reasons.

Like get to the clearances the engines were designed to be working in with minimal wear. Cuz engines wear out more when they're cold.
I believe it also says that in the owners manual, if you drive very short trips and your car is warming up the whole time, you're gonna have much more wear versus someone who does long commutes in working temps every day.

Also I would very much like my car warm in these times please. Older E30s also cannot blow hot air out of the middle vents, just the top and bottoms. So I really like warming up asap.

[iso_hi]

I guess I'll know once I have coolant in and let it idle for a while. Thanks for the input guys.

Pretty much have everything buttoned up. Going to get the teardrop welded on the dump pipe as well as an o2 sensor bung. I know the distance isn't ideal for the sensor but I just want to run this for a while as I save for a full exhaust and wideband. I get the intercooler this Friday also. Hoping to have it on the street this weekend.

[iso_hi]

Got my hood dump welded


Also started the intercooler piping. Can't wait to be off work on Sunday.

[iso_hi]

Damnit. Everything was back together and put coolant in. Let it sit overnight and found some drops coming from the corner of the radiator, where the metal meets the plastic.

My 87 radiator has the lower hose on the drivers side and upper on passenger. Late model is opposite and I would need the crossover tube to convert. Late model radiators are cheaper and easier to find.

Should I splurge $300+ on an early model aluminum radiator and new hoses or should I convert to late model style?

[Panici]

Damnit. Everything was back together and put coolant in. Let it sit overnight and found some drops coming from the corner of the radiator, where the metal meets the plastic.

My 87 radiator has the lower hose on the drivers side and upper on passenger. Late model is opposite and I would need the crossover tube to convert. Late model radiators are cheaper and easier to find.

Should I splurge $300+ on an early model aluminum radiator and new hoses or should I convert to late model style?

I would convert to late model style. I've heard that the supply of early model rads is drying up.

[iso_hi]

Yeah prob better for the long run.

[jacobthegoat]

Yeah prob better for the long run.

if you do go to the late model style I have a set of silicone Ireland Engineering hoses for a good price.

[iso_hi]

if you do go to the late model style I have a set of silicone Ireland Engineering hoses for a good price.

I did end up ordering the parts to convert this morning. Saw your message too late unfortunately.

I get the parts before the weekend so hoping I can post a good update after.

[moatilliatta]

Stock hoses are good as long as their are oe / Genuine. IMO the silicone ones can tear up plastic end tanks, especially if you have stock motor mounts.

[iso_hi]

The radiator they sent me has the transmission cooler ports even tho I ordered the manual version. Should I use this one and just block of the ports or just return it?